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Looking for a fuse block


grannyknot

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I want to add a fuse block to the engine bay to help remove some of the high current flowing to the stock fuse block and ignition switch. So far I've installed Dave Irwin's headlight upgrade harness and parking light harness. The new engine bay fuse block I would power the electric rad fan, fan controller, fuel pump and starter relay. I'm thinking about using this block, 100/30A LED Micro Blade Fuse Block | Princess Auto

Can I assume that it can handle 100amps total and no more then 30amps on anyone circuit?

Thanks,

Chris

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The BlueSea stuff is theeeee best quality stuff I've ever seen.

You know when you turn that big knurled volume knob on a $10,000 stereo amp and it gives you that feeling of quality and richness? Same with the BlueSea stuff. Fabulous.

That said the PA box will just fine for what you want. Just put some cleaning maintenance on the spring/summer list of things to do every year.

Now if you want water proof, and/or expandable and user configurable, get these

http://www.rallylights.com/all/electrical/fuse-blocks.html

The two boxes on the bottom right. The 16 gang splash proof comes with all the individual pins for you to crimp up and configure as you want.

AND, as if that's not enough, it's part of a system of snap together blocks. There is a 4-relay block that goes with this system too. Now we're talking DIY electrical and doing it right!

http://www.rallylights.com/all/electrical/relay-holders/hl62943-mini-relay-box-4-gang-splashproof.html

Edited by zKars
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I rewired my boat in 2005, using a Blue Sea block. We sold the boat a few years ago, and the block was still in like new condition. This is remarkable, considering the salt air and the really high humidity here. I think that part held up better than any other metal part I've installed on a boat (stainless?). If it can survive there, it should survive very well under the hood. I got mine at West Marine, BTW.

That said, a 30A circuit might do better with a Maxi Fuse. Or you could always wire two 15A fuses in parallel. Use silicone dielectric grease on the contacts!

BTW, I wouldn't trust the snap-on shield not to snap-off and fall onto the roadway at some time. Perhaps there's some way to secure it with screws. Or you could always just do without it.

Edited by FastWoman
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Being in Texas......not really worried about it. But I was thinking it being behind the shock tower and up on the wheel well that it would not get too much road splash. This picture shows where I put the relays. Right where the fuel vapor canister was located.

post-22794-14150827468161_thumb.jpg

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