This is what I did -

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/35588-upgrade-fusible-links-circuit-breakers-post301676.html

No maintenance, no worries.

The designed application is for 80A (each) circuits, so 100A total is not a problem.

ZERO electrical gremlins since this upgrade.

Look under subforum ebay/craigslist for a post submitted about "ROW52" to find donors for this application.

Additonal pictures posted at hybridz.org, same user name.

Wayne

Chris, I simply like big electrical contacts for high current. I wouldn't completely trust the contacts on a small fuse not to overheat when carrying 30A, even if the fuse is rated 30A. I'd anticipate the possibility of arcing, melted plastic, and other mischief. (Even our 1/4" glass fuses sometimes get pretty hot!) I would trust 20A, because I've seen enough 20A fuses of that size that I know they're OK That's just my gut feeling.

To put it in household wiring terms, I just finished installing 150A electrical service to a workshop. The massive branch breaker that goes in the main panel occupies FOUR breaker slots, because TWO slots would be inadequate. As I look at the amount of metal making contact, I would say each slot has four times the metal one would find in one of those standard sized automotive fuse tabs. Not only that, but there's a special compression spring on each pre-greased contact! That would be 8x them metal overall for a 150A circuit. Divide 150 by 8, and you fall in the range of that 20A fuse I would trust.

FAIW, I did once run a 30A fuse of that size. It had to go in a tiny space on the upper kick wall of my '66 Mustang, in the accessory block I rigged for my stereo system. When I had a VintageAire A/C system installed, the installer covered over the fuse block with a duct. (I wasn't happy about a few aspects of that installation.) To make a long story short, the contacts on that 30A fuse were really inadequate, and the circuit kept going out, requiring me to unfasten the duct, so that I could reseat the fuse. Very annoying. Now it wasn't a great fuse block -- not as nice as the Blue Sea -- but still the contact was inadequate at 30A.

But like I say, running two 15A fuses in parallel would work fine. An overcurrent would blow both fuses. I think a single 20A fuse is also fine for that size of fuse, but 30A seems to me a bit much (even though I realize you can do it).

So before I ended up installing the Isis Intelligent Multiplex System in my Z (perhaps one of 2/3 Z owners on earth who have done this), I utilized a fuse block that I purchased from wiringproducts.com that was quite inexpensive yet did exactly what I needed in a very small space. You can find a link to the product here:

6 Circuit Raised Ganged ATO/ATC Fuse Block - WiringProducts

I used it for ignition, stereo amp, stereo sub, cooling fan, fuel pump and it worked fine. I built a small bracket that attached to the fusible link bracket which is where I mounted the fuse block. Worked really well, especially for $25. I must admit, had I known about the marine versions that were discussed earlier, I would have gone that route, but this made for a very easy install and provided the power distribution that I needed.

I've included a couple of pictures of the wiring products fuse block as it was installed in my car at the time. I've also included a few shots of the Isis install, in case anyone is interested.

So here is how it turned out,

I still have to cleanup and wrap the main engine bay wiring harness. But I also used this down time to add

4ga cables to the battery, alternator, starter, grounds and back to the amp.

I found a new product at my favorite online electrical store, shrink wrap big enough to go around a relay,

Although I wouldn't call it water proof, it's pretty close.

nice!