If you have to you can cut off the plugs and put on the type you have. Check out 

www.zcardepot.com 

They might have what you need, plus they have orginal parts and some after market. I bought a combination switch off Ebay for a 1977 and the plug was different, so I cut them off and put on new, it works perfectly. 

Edited November 19, 20186 yr by oldfart76280z
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Complete assembly 

I guess these lamps are the same sold by AMAZON at a cheaper Price?

https://www.amazon.com/Nissan-Datsun-120Y-B210-240Z/dp/B01MQ16VI8/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1542732583&sr=8-8&keywords=datsun+240z+lamps

Anyone? I was looking for NOS or made in Japan.

 

I bought mine from eBay via Malaysia but be warned that the rubber in the original item is wedge shaped, the ones on these are flat.

 

So while in other circumstances it is bad advice, in this scenario it's worth cleaning and reusing your rubbers!!! [emoji1787]

 

I had the same issue with one of my side marker lights as well.  The metal housing was completely rusted out.  I purchased the aftermarket ones on Ebay from Malaysia (or Thailand).  I noticed a few things were different so I just took them apart and used the new metal housing but used the old, original rubber, outer metal trim, and plastic lens which were all still in good shape.  I just cut the old bullet connector off the rusted original one and soldered it onto the new housing.  

thats exactly what i will do.

On ‎11‎/‎17‎/‎2018 at 10:04 PM, Patcon said:

You can unplug any you want. Unplug them at the fenders and corners. Leave the column alone. Once they are unplugged and the lights will stay on then you know the issue is down stream. Add them back and see where the problem lies. Easy, peasy

im having this issue again! My 15 amp fuse at in the fuse holder of the Parking light Harness provided by Dave Irwin went south. I guess its easier to disconnect the specific rotten and rusted red marker light at the rear , install a new 15 amp fuse and see if it blows again. I bought 15 fuses as they are very cheap.  Do you think the power cable could be sliced somewhere under the dash also?

On 11/18/2018 at 4:42 PM, Patcon said:

That one is beyond restoration. You can find some good used ones or buy the Asian reproductions. Repros are still better than shorted lights

Well i just got a full set of marker light replicas made in thailand. I spliced the ground and positive cable and crimped new bullet terminals. I prefer using the old rubber which seems fine, the original lens and the original metal frame. Would you recommend also spraying some CRC soft seal to avoid any future rust or could this product damage the rubber seal?

One way would be to disconnect all of the items you just installed. Add a new fuse. Turn on the light circuit and if the fuse doesn’t blow start adding one light at a time while the lights are power up until they go out. That will tell you where the problem lies. Look for a short or a misplaced wire. You may have one of the ground wires switched. Good luck.


72 body and block, everything else 71, Tokico springs, Illumina, R180 CLSD, 83 close ratio, 3.90 gears, Ztherapy SUs, BRE 15X7 Libre wheels and BRE front spoiler.

 I haven't used Soft Seal. A quick search says it's for unfinished metal surfaces and dries to an amber color. Instead of the Soft Seal how about spraying the interior with a clear finish (epoxy, your choice) to add to the protection and not screw up the reflectiveness of the unit.

The lights look zinc plated with a blue chromate finish. They should last a long time with out adding anything. The one you took off is probably close to 50 years old, so I think you should be fine with out anything extra. Did you get the fuse issue fixed with the new lights?