MSA Manifold Nut & Stud Kit

[Costjo]

Yes, I did put the short end in the head but with the large spacer washer on the header/intake holes there isnt much left over plus I didnt hand tighten the studs in I used 8 ft lbs with double nut because didnt get an answer quick enough. I probably should of waited. I was able to put lock washers on the top 6 for the intake and on the ends of header I believe.

What about using something like this 8Mm X 1.25 Copper Exhaust Lock Nuts Uses 12Mm Wrench - Set Of 8 or this https://www.belmetric.com/ncf8x12-copper-flange-nut-p-189.html?zenid=5pqdalupf8j63msv7pldqra8f6&cPath=3_51_53

I'm sorry for not having this sooner, I was a little late waking up this morning. I went through my re build file and found this number on a receipt, Nissan #14039-W1500. I'm almost positive that's the smaller ones on my head studs in the middle because I bought 10, the other 2 are the big ones posted above. And the anti-seize isn't a must so don't sweat it if you already have them in, it was recommended in a book I went by to prevent corrosion and rust in the future.

Did you put the longer threads on the stud in the head? I'm asking because I have about a 1/4" of threads above the nuts on mine but I put the short end in the head.

Edited February 27, 2014 by Costjo

[siteunseen]

Those wouldn't rust but other than that obvious observation I couldn't say. I think you'll be fine with the lock washers it's just a shame MSA has that great header with that crappy stud kit you could get at any hardware store for way cheaper than $20 they charge.

[Zed Head]

To be clear, you can go to your local Nissan dealer and ask for the nuts and washers for your engine and they will probably have them or be able to get them in a few days. They're about the same cost as the MSA kit. I went through the whole "what should I use" issue and found that my local dealer could get them. Why not go stock?

And, expanding on Post #2, I think that Nissan doesn't even use washers, of any kind, on the "yokes" (the thick shaped "washers"). It's just a nut, the yoke and the manifold (study the diagram in Post #2). Lock washers are over-rated and give a false sense of security. I've disassembled a few L6 engines and many don't have washers. If the nuts seem loose after running it's probably the manifold gasket shrinking from the heat and pressure and things moving around after some heat cycles. It's not the nuts loosening.

I haven't done a manifold recently but the next time I do I will be polishing up the surface of the yokes so that the nuts can seat correctly (sitting top of rust is bad) and the yokes can self-adjust, and use the stock Nissan nuts. I might even go for a factory gasket, depending on timing and funds.

[Costjo]

Here is what I did to the large manifold (yokes) spacer washer. I grinded half to make it level pressure for both header and intake because the header from MSA was thinner than the intake.

Edited February 27, 2014 by Costjo