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1st post. New to Zcar Club..here's what I have


1970240z989

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Nice find. Those triples really stand out. Hopefully they're in good shape. For as long as it's sat, you may have some gas gummed up clogged fuel lines. We can hope not. but don't hold your breath. What they said about lubbing things is definitely great advice. Pulling the plugs and putting oil in to sit a while is sound, but I'd use Mystery oil, or WD-40 and hit it a few times, then with a bar and a socket, I'd crank it over manually (clockwise looking at the front of the engine, try not to go CCW, as you can slack the timing chain) It should pop loose and rotate fairly easily. If you hear grinding noises, then stop, because you'll need to take a much closer look.

If it turns okay, then Same as was said, you can check the cam, (You DO NOT have to remove the cover, just open the oil fill and load it up with WD 40.) while manually turning the engine, you can check to see if there's a lot of rust on the cams. Some surface rust is fine, but flaking is BAD. Once that's all done, CHANGE THE OIL/FILTER, The WD40/Mystery oil is not good for regular oil.

Once that's all set, button up the plugs and wires 153624.

I don't know where your Rad hoses are, but you'll need to fix that of course. I'm not sure what's up with the Prestone bottle. It looks like a makeshift overflow.

Really the Fuel tank should be dropped and hot tanked. but you may not want to risk any of the hoses for that, so just change your filters and hope for the best. If it starts clogging up from rust, then you may not have a choice. Any old gas would need to be drained. The Fuel lines from the tank to the pump hopefully will be clear, if not, you can try to snake them with some bailing wire or an old speedo cable, but it might be easier to replace. The Fuel pump is there on the front of the engine. It's Mechanical. Hopefully it's still good, but it may need to be rebuilt. You just need to pull off the output hose and run a line into a gas can so you can see if it's doing anything (After you've popped the engine loose and changed the oil) when you crank the engine over with the starter.

Likely those triples will need to be rebuilt. who knows how gummed up they could be, but if the line running to them from the pump still has liquid gas then it's a very good sign. If that's the case, remove the air filters and load them up with carb cleaner, and let them sit. load up again every few hours and you might get lucky. Otherwise it's rebuild time x3, you'll be an expert when you get to the 3rd one.

My 240 is #5832 Also 11/70. Same year and month as me. That's why I wanted to rebuild mine... If you go with Metal buckets, I am looking for a good driverside FRP scoop.

That Auto Tranny, I wouldn't wish it on anyone, If I were you I'd drain it, bag it and crate it up in a corner for the next guy, then get a 82/83' ZX tranny/clutch/flywheel w/ throw-out bearing and 77' mounts and clutch cylinders. The shaft should be fine. That'll make you much happier and it will all bolt right up.

You'll probably want to DL the FSM and find a Haynes manuals they're pretty invaluable.

Your AC looks like the York system, and I think was a dealer option. Tho it looks a little different than mine. It should be fixable but it's an R12 system.

Well if you have questions, please ask. We're here to help and probably are more excited than you are about your car.

Phar

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Great!! I've looked around everywhere and couldn't find one with a stripe. I was starting to think it was put on after it was bought, even though I was told that's how it came from the dealer. Maybe it was a dealer installed item?? Or did yours come like that from the factory?

My first Z had pin stripes added at the dealership by a Trim Brite vendor. He was on the lot the day I came to pick up the car. He had or was about to stripe almost every car there. He did great work and his designs were very subtle and tasteful, IMO, matching designs and colors to the various models. Mine was a double over-under that started as a point at the headlight bucket, increasing in width ( maybe 3/4'?) following the shoulder line and just before turning 90 degrees across the hatch, they crossed each other. The car was that metallic copper and the stripes were a pale green and pale yellow. I loved it.

I wish I had photos.

Edited by Willoughby Z
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I was second owner of my first Z, but paperwork indicated the stripes were an after-market item installed at the dealer. I'm pretty sure mine were from Trim-Brite also.

It was a persimmon red 73' Z with yellow-beige stripes of same design as yours, with black / gold-metallic edge lines.

Color combo sounds kinda yucky, but it actually looked good and nicely highlighted the lines of the car.

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I know some do not like the automatic but as a rare piece we rebuilt it and left it in the car. Works fine. Same final drive as a 4 speed so it is not bad.

I redid the AC and converted to a rotary compressor and all in one under dash unit, the york dealer add on is ok at best. HTH, Richard 9070.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Sorry for the delay in replying, but I just hadn't gotten around to doing anything until this past weekend. Well, the motor was siezed, but after a lot of patience and mystery oil, I was able to get it to turn maybe 3/4 of a full rotation. That's where I'm at, it will turn then it stops at the same place. It almost feels like a rod(?) maybe. Not sure what it could be, but that's as far as I'll go without getting help. I'll provide an update as soon as I get someone else to look at it. Hopefully it not bad news...

thanks to all of you for the great advice...

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  • 4 months later...

Update....

Unfortunately haven't had time to reply to all of ya'lls post. Thank you for all the tips. So the car sat in our shop untouched for the better part of 4 months. From my last post, I couldn't get it to turn completely. I had it towed to a friends house the first week of July with instructions to mess with it when he had time, as I was in no rush. Well, great news, it was a stuck valve and after babying it this past week, he got it to crank...and it sounds great!! I had purchased new plugs, distb cap, wiring, etc, but he got it to start with out changing anything-he rigged a hose to jug of gas, so not sure what's i the fuel tank yet. Of course he'll change it all out, I was just surprised that after 25+ years, it still sounded so smooth with the old parts. If you recall, the wiring inside looked horrible, however all the basic electrical-lights, turn signals, door open chime-works fine. I guess the original owner was maybe trying to change out the radio and then decided against?? Not sure. Regardless, here are some questions for you all;

1. We're debating on rebuilding the 3 carbs, only because they sat for so long. Should we?

2. The car has a mechanical and electrical fuel pump. The electrical one didn't come out until 1973, so I have to assume the previous owner added it. I've called a few places and can't seem to locate them. Any suggestions?

3. Interior upholstery needs to be redone. Should I redo it as original (blue velour) or go with leather or something similar to leather?

4. In our excitement we didn't check the a/c, but it's almost certainly r12. How easy is a retro to do and any idea on cost ?

5. Still need to have brakes done, any tips on doing those?

The next steps are change/flush transmission fluid, flush radiator, replace belts, replace tires. The hard part seems to be done, everything else seems to be easy.. I hope.

Thanks again for all the help.

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glad to hear some progress has been made without much pain. just a couple quick thoughts...

1. "carb rebuild"... absolutely. clean slate from the start will save you a bunch of time figuring out you need to rebuild the carbs.

2. "and electrical fuel pump"... definitely added when the carbs were. should be able to match to something similar at any decent parts outlet or online.

3. "upholstery"... blue velour wasn't original. would have been black vinyl like the door panels. the Motorsport kit is available (foam too if you need it) and fits great

4. "a/c"... all would have been dealer installed parts. is the system all there? it's definitely not all in place. parts may be tough to find.

5. "brakes"... easy stuff with readily available parts.

and... the wiring. some of that aftermarket wiring will be related to the electric fuel pump, some to the stereo, and some to the A/C. all non-factory parts. may not be too much of a mess after you isolate those routes.

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post-30171-14150829690306_thumb.jpg

Need a little help. I'm rebuilding the carbs and replacing the filters. The carbs are Weber 40DCOE2, I'm having a

heck of a time finding the filters and the housing for them. I want to replace the yellow housing (mount and faceplate?) with either chrome or black or something else that is reasonable. Any suggestions??

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post-30171-1415082968946_thumb.jpg

post-30171-14150829689686_thumb.jpg

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  • 7 months later...

I'm almost done, but I ran in to a problem.  I'm replacing the interior carpet and without knowing any better, I ordered the replacement car seats 

covers from zcar source.  Well, when I took the seats off, I realized that the seats were not the original ones, so now I have a set of replica vinyl

covers for the driver and passenger.  If I can return them, I lose out at least 20% for a restock fee-if they can be returned.  My bigger problem is I'm still

needing seats.  To redo what is there now is about $490 each seat.    

Do you all know of a less expensive route?  Maybe put in other seats that will fit?  Not sure if there are other seats out there, but any suggestions on other make/model/year car seats that will fit would be greatly appreciated.  

 

BTW, here's what I've done so far

redid carbs, new alternator, manual and electrical gas pump, plugs, wires, cap, door seals, battery, coolant tank, brakes, pads, drums and as I said above, new interior carpet.

The car is running and sounds great.  I'll post pics soon...

 

thanks again for all your help.............. 

Edited by 1970240z989
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