Sounds like it might be time to shop for a tank in better condition?

I can't help think that if a quart of motor oil in the tank on every oil change would stop the tank from rusting that that also would help stop ethanol corrosion.

Grant 83 - At this point in time, it will cost little to nothing to try the shake, rattle & roll method of scrubbing the tank. If the coating is as loose as it sounds you might be pleasantly surprised. Mikes Z Car--- I agree, but I can't help but wonder how much visible blue smoke you'll get with that ratio of oil to gas to say nothing of black oily plugs. It would probably help lube the cylinder walls though. Any 2 cycle fans have an opinion?

Mark in Portland

how hard is it to remove the gas tank? I may try that shake method on my Z, been sitting for a few years when i picked it up. No idea whats back there .. But would give me a chance to replace the fuel lines back there anyways.. Seems like it wouldnt cost much.

I had an rx7 and i had to premix with 2 stroke oil all the time.. it really adds up costs to the fuel. I would buy a 5 quart bottle of 2 stroke oil, than refill a small 1 quart bottle of 2 stroke oil to keep in the car. RX7s inject motor oil into the combustion from the factory (unless you remove the oil metering pump *mine got damaged so i blocked it off and started premix*)

Edited February 23, 201411 yr by Hypertek

Muriatic acid and Red-Kote worked great for me.

Z Tech Tips Ball and Socket Compression Rod (AtlanticZ.ca)

It's not a ball and socket tip, it's tank removal and cleaning.

Then put a filter out of the tank, Z Car Tech Tips Fram G3 Filter Installation

Edited February 23, 201411 yr by siteunseen

how hard is it to remove the gas tank?

Not terribly. Disconnect all the hoses without taking a gasoline shower, undo a bolt on each of the two straps, and out she comes.

Here's a picture of where all the vapor recovery lines go. The fuel filler neck can be accessed through a little panel that unscrews in the rear right fender (item 40 in the image), and some of the upper hoses can be more easily reached after undoing the straps and letting it drop a few inches. Try not to ruin your fuel filler neck, they're made of unobtanium the last time I checked; a little wd40 as a rubber conditioner goes a long way towards making old plasticized rubber flexible enough to handle.

There's a drain plug on the bottom if you can get it out.

Edit: Don't forget to unhook the wires from your fuel tank level sender! They have weird little slide on connectors.

Edited February 23, 201411 yr by Captain_Zeros