Matthew Abate Posted October 8, 2017 Share #85 Posted October 8, 2017 Okay, this is awesome. My next two questions are: Where do we source parts? From what I can tell, the only things you can replace are the boots (OEM or aftermarket), pinion bearing (SKF 6003-2rs1 / Koyo 6003rs), and the seal (SKF 6641 / Timken 221735). How do I figure out if I even need to do this. I have the rack out and am refreshing the suspension. I'm replacing the boots and inner tie rod ends (Real Parts RP26575) for posterity. The rack seems like a big project, but I think now is the time to do it. If the parts above are findable, I think I can pull this off (if I have someone pull and press the bearing for me), but I'm hesitating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSM Posted October 8, 2017 Share #86 Posted October 8, 2017 I was curious on this nut. Is it a lock nut against the inner tie rod? Mine inner was different then yours. I think mine was the original OEM since it was wrapped in gold foil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Obvious Posted October 9, 2017 Author Share #87 Posted October 9, 2017 Yes, that is a lock nut. You thread the tie rod end onto the end of the rack and then tighten the locknut against it to lock the end in place. In that pic, the locknut had been backed off the tie rod end a turn or two. That's why there is a small gap between the tie rod end and the locknut. I think my style of tie rod end (round with the weld spots on it) is the original factory design. If yours had multiple flats on the sides and wasn't welded together, I think it was replaced at some point. No MINE is original OEM. Haha!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Obvious Posted October 9, 2017 Author Share #88 Posted October 9, 2017 Matt, I would be surprised if the bearings really needed to be replaced as it's not a high load application. Even so, I think pulling the whole thing apart is a good idea to clean out the gummed up crusty grease and make sure everything is working as intended. As for taking it apart, I'd be glad to give you a hand if you wanted to make the trip to my place. It's not as bad as it sounds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSM Posted October 9, 2017 Share #89 Posted October 9, 2017 20 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said: Yes, that is a lock nut. You thread the tie rod end onto the end of the rack and then tighten the locknut against it to lock the end in place. In that pic, the locknut had been backed off the tie rod end a turn or two. That's why there is a small gap between the tie rod end and the locknut. I think my style of tie rod end (round with the weld spots on it) is the original factory design. If yours had multiple flats on the sides and wasn't welded together, I think it was replaced at some point. No MINE is original OEM. Haha!! Interesting. Maybe Nissan made some other design as well? Mine came apart too. I was just shocked to see the original sticker still on mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheee! Posted October 9, 2017 Share #90 Posted October 9, 2017 Looking forward to referencing this thread on my rack rebuild in the future... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Abate Posted October 9, 2017 Share #91 Posted October 9, 2017 Matt, I would be surprised if the bearings really needed to be replaced as it's not a high load application. Even so, I think pulling the whole thing apart is a good idea to clean out the gummed up crusty grease and make sure everything is working as intended. As for taking it apart, I'd be glad to give you a hand if you wanted to make the trip to my place. It's not as bad as it sounds.I might take you up on this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheee! Posted October 9, 2017 Share #92 Posted October 9, 2017 Send shipping info Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheee! Posted January 16, 2018 Share #93 Posted January 16, 2018 On 10/8/2017 at 9:30 AM, Captain Obvious said: My PO had screwed these plug bolts into the inner tie rod grease port. More on those bolts later, but the bottom line is they should have never been there in the first place. So take the bolts out: What did you end up doing with these grease ports and bolts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Obvious Posted January 16, 2018 Author Share #94 Posted January 16, 2018 I took the bolts out and left the holes open. I think that's how they were supposed to be stock. They are shrouded inside the rubber boots so as long as the boots are in good shape, they will stay clean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheee! Posted January 16, 2018 Share #95 Posted January 16, 2018 On 10/8/2017 at 9:26 AM, Captain Obvious said: Here's a shot of the shot in the rack. Note the smooth rounded fillets in the corners: One more.... what is the purpose of the small plastic plug under the driver side bushing? White in your picture here. My concern is, I plan to powder coat this part... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike W Posted January 16, 2018 Share #96 Posted January 16, 2018 I actually don't know the purpose of the plug that you point out on the rack although I had the same on the racks that I have rebuilt. I guess that it may have been something used in manufacturing for perhaps the initial greasing of the assembly but needed to be plugged for actual use. Having said that I have powder coated multiple racks like this without any issue. I just left the plug in tact during the powder coat process. Mike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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