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Very Cool Ignition Upgrade


Mike W

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I think that it makes sense when you realize that the thing with the short and long lines is the battery.  They're showing the switch supplying power from the positive post of the battery and the blue wire connected to ground to the negative post.  It's just an unusual symbol for the battery.

Battery.PNG

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I meant unusual for general public consumption.  I like the symbol that actually looks like a car battery.  Especially good if you're trying to sell your product to non-technical people, for use in their cars.  Typical problem with knowledge transfer to the public.  

 

Car battery.PNG

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I think its the difference between electronics industry and automotive electrics.

Like the way we see resistors as a zig zag and in the electronics world I see it mostly as a rectangular symbol

We use these symbols where I work mostly for loop sheets and such.

http://www.circuitstoday.com/electronic-circuit-symbols

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hello!

Read somewhere by accident yesterday that the Mallory Unilite is out of production due to MSDs restructuring. First thought was to try buying one before everybody run out, but then I remembered reading about another even better solution a long time ago. Google helped me finding Ignition123 again, and after reading this very informative thread through it's stupid question time.

1. Understood this Datsun L6 attachment is US developed, at least it isn't listed on the .nl site. However the Swedish dealer that covers the nordic countries list it and I suppose it is the same product all over? Asking because I live in Finland...

2. As I like my car to look as original as possible, but pack a bit more power, I refuse to mount any aftermarket tachs. Also, I think non working original gauges are just as sloppy. What do you guys use? I guess you still need an adapter to be able to use the old original points friendly tach?

3. No ballast resistor with these even if you wanted to right?

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The 123 system neither uses or does not use a ballast resistor. It requires between 2 and 3 ohms of primary coil resistance. So if you buy a 1 ohm coil, you have to add a 1 or 2 ohm ballast resistor in line with the +side of the coil to get to the 2-3 ohm target. If you buy a 3 ohm coil, then you skip the ballast resistor... Kapeesh?

Okay one more thing to add. Having too little resistance just makes the coil and/or internal transistor switch burn out way before you hoped it would. It's all an operating current hence heat issue. If you HAVE to buy a 0.8 ohm MSD coil on the road somewhere due to a failure, don't sweat it. It will work just fine for weeks. Just don't leave it any longer than you have to. It's not an instant death sentence

Edited by zKars
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Good point.  Funny though, I seem to remember noting in the past that the 123 did need more resistance on the primary than even a 1978 280Z for example (hence my "high energy" comment), but the recent instructions give a 1 ohm limit.  The system also has an automatic shutoff which I don't recall.  Who knows, they may have upgraded the electronics.  All good.

http://www.123ignitionusa.com/123switch6.pdf

http://www.123ignitionusa.com/

p.s. I think/thought that it's "kapisch".  But it turns out that it's actually capisce.

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  • 2 months later...

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