Very Cool Ignition Upgrade

[joe newsom]

good info

[PrincePaul]

Hey Guys,

 

thinking of buying a 123 tune+, too. Is it possible to use it with the stock 280z transistor unit? Im converting to tripples so the injection system is gone. But Id like to keep the rest of the ignition system kinda stock so tach, and all the other integrated systems like the ignition relay etc. are not touched.

The whole 1 ohm situation is just because normally you attach the dizzy directly to the coil and to limit the amps drawn, right? So with the stock ignition unit the cables from the coil go in the black box first and than two different cables are going to the dizzy. If I´m measuring over 1 ohm at these two cables (red and green) it should be good to go?

Haven`t read about anyone using the 123 tune one a 280z. I´d just like the programmable aspect of the whole setup.

 

Thats how its wired up in the stock form:

The coil is between 0,84 and 1,02 ohm iaw the FSM, but as its going in the ignition box first the ohms between the red and the green cable should be the one over 1 ohm and the coil shouldn`t matter. Or what are your impressions on that? (Will measure everything on the weekend).

[LeonV]

The 123 has its own built-in ignitor, you can leave the transistor unit unplugged in the car but it will be redundant. Do not wire your distributor through your OE transistor unit, that won't work.

You need a coil with a primary resistance >1ohm. You're measuring secondary resistance.

The stock tach will work fine as it's triggered off of the coil (-), not the transistor unit.

The 123 unit is simple to install. Just wire it in per their diagram and use the proper coil. That's it.

[PrincePaul]

Alright, the whole wiring loom is on the table anyway. So isn`t a big deal to remove some more.

Proper coils like the Bosch RED 0 221 119 030?

 

How do you wire up systems like msd 6al or the crane ones with the 123 - shouldn`t they be similar to the transistor unit already in the car?

[Zed Head]

2 hours ago, PrincePaul said:

Thats how its wired up in the stock form:

The coil is between 0,84 and 1,02 ohm iaw the FSM, but as its going in the ignition box first the ohms between the red and the green cable should be the one over 1 ohm and the coil shouldn`t matter. Or what are your impressions on that? (Will measure everything on the weekend).

The red and green wires go to the pickup coil in the distributor, not the ignition coil.  You won't be using the red and green wires at all.  You'll only be using the L and the BW wires.  Blue, and Black with White Stripe.

[PrincePaul]

Alright, so basically get rid of the whole stock ignition system.

New coil and 123 dizzy - done.

 

 

What is it about now with the 1 ohm, because sometimes 1,5 ohm comes up as minimum.

As far as I found out the BOSCH RED has 1,2 without the extra resistor. Should be about right than and is probably one of the only parts I can actually get here in germany directly

 

 

 

[lenponz]

I think I am gonna try this thing. I have euro dizzy w/a pertronix and it sucks, misses on high rpm’s embarrassing. I have set the mech/vac set to 10/10. With point it’s fine to about 5400, but this set up sound really good.

 

[munters]

20 hours ago, PrincePaul said:

Alright, the whole wiring loom is on the table anyway. So isn`t a big deal to remove some more.

Proper coils like the Bosch RED 0 221 119 030?

 

How do you wire up systems like msd 6al or the crane ones with the 123 - shouldn`t they be similar to the transistor unit already in the car?

I am using the Crane  HI-6S  with a Lx91 Coil (Crane 6000-6305 ) system with it (before the MSD but the MSD died) It is a big difference with the Crane/MSD compared to the 123 alone.

With my Triples the warm start was crap. with the Crane it starts always perfectly and the spark is now a real one and not a weak little glimmer as before.

[Zed Head]

Early on when we became aware of the 123 there was discussion about whether or not it was "high energy".  High energy systems typically have current-limiting technology in the module, which the latest version does.  It doesn't require ballast either.  It looks equivalent to the GM HEI module, or any 280Z system after 1978.  I think that the early 123 systems weren't current limiting systems.

The Hi-6 is a multiple spark system at low RPM.  So it might give better idle performance than just a single spark system.  Probably depends a lot on what type of engine you're using.  Carbs and cam would benefit, EFI maybe not so much.  

 

[munters]

Its actually a multiple spark system below 2000 rpm and above its a long duration single spark.

My 123 is already auto dwell current limiting.

[JohnnyWas]

Hey all. Having issues getting spark. I have everything wired as such [see attachment], but I just wont get spark when the engine is cranking. Can anyone with a similar set-up confirm that I have everything dialed in correctly?? Wiring from scratch here; this should be working, no??

[Zed Head]

Looks like you're using the 123 tach signal to drive the MSD box?  Is that what 123 black is?  The 123 distributor has its own ignition module, not clear why you'd do that.  You don't need the MSD.

Also not clear what those other things are in your drawing.  One looks like a toggle panel, but has a round thing that says Start.  Is that a Start button?  The other says "Start Btn" so is probably a momentary switch, or button.  Looks like you have two buttons in series.

You'll get better replies if you post the links to the 123 and MSD instructions, or at least tell what the wires do.  No real urge to go dig them up myself.  Is 123 blue a ground wire?  123 red power?

Good luck.