Very Cool Ignition Upgrade

[Travel'n Man]

Chris-

Did Whitehead dyno it?

[TomoHawk]

That's interesting, that you can record data about the vacuum.

Next time, you just use Alt-Prtscrn to get only the active window.

Edited May 11, 2014 by TomoHawk

[grannyknot]

Thanks Tomo, that's much better.

Haven't dynoed yet, hoping to in the next few weeks.

[mdec]

Grannyknot,

Thanks for supplying this data. That advanced curve looks very similar to what I am currently running (am going to confirm today). Any reason why you zero'd out the stock 123 vacuum curve?. What type Dizzy & idle/total #'s were you running with your old setup ? What improvements have you seen with this setup?

[123ignitionusa]

Granny Knot

Can you do a screen shot of the Data input view for the benefit of your compadres? Are these your Numbers?

Edited May 11, 2014 by 123ignitionusa
Changed Screen shot

[TomoHawk]

Cool. This one device can give you data on RPM, timing advance, and MAP. Can it tell you the air-fuel ratio too?

[grannyknot]

Grannyknot,

Thanks for supplying this data. That advanced curve looks very similar to what I am currently running (am going to confirm today). Any reason why you zero'd out the stock 123 vacuum curve?. What type Dizzy & idle/total #'s were you running with your old setup ? What improvements have you seen with this setup?

There are no vacuum numbers because I have no vacuum ports.(working on that)

The old set up was the original distributor from the 03/70 2.4L engine with a Pertronix ignition module. It worked okay but the compression was 10:1 and I was chasing engine ping that would not allow me to use total advance.

This winter I installed a 1.5mm steel head gasket and lowered the compression to 9.5:1 and the ping is gone and the advance numbers are up.

I'm pretty sure the output numbers are also up but we'll see when it's dyno'ed.

Here is the code with the actual numbers for the advance curve I'm running right now, this is a curve that Whitehead uses a lot for the engines they build.

Granny Knot

Can you do a screen shot of the Data input view for the benefit of your compadres? Are these your Numbers?[ATTACH=CONFIG]71479[/ATTACH]

Ed, no those aren't my numbers, the screen grab above has what I am running.

Just saw what I posted, lets try that again, that's better.

Edited May 11, 2014 by grannyknot

[mdec]

I plan to install my 123dizzy sometime next week. Have already loaded the mech curve ..something similar to the whitehead curve (above), but plan to run vacuum advance also as from experience this seems to provide the most responsiveness. Not sure where to start as far as the curve goes though - any ideas from anyone ? I was running a reconditioned 280zx dizzy before.

[madkaw]

Chris, looking at your curve numbers seem conservative to what I run on my MS. At WOT or full loading I am at 37 degrees by 3000.

No dyno to say whether I am where I should be, but the butt dyno says -close:)

[madkaw]

And get your MAP SENSOR going to look at those numbers.

[zKars]

Hey gang, this weekend it was my turn to put in my fresh and purdy 123 Ignition dizzy. Few details to share.

Generally the install went as described above. Schlik. Love having only a few degrees advance for starting, and full MAP compensated control.

But there was one gotcha. Read on.

My issue is with the fit between the end of the drive spindle in the front cover and the base of the new dizzy. Its WAY too tight. When I first put the thing in, I had trouble getting the rotor to lock into the drive spindle. I really had to reef downwards while twisting the rotor to get it lock into the slot. Even then when it finally did catch, it felt like it just barely engaged. I went around to the passenger side and looked to see if the dizzy was all the way down. Nope. Its up about 1 to 1.5 thicknesses of their nifty little lock plate too high. Sorry no pics but its clearly not even close to all the way down.

I removed it and grabbed a spare spindle I have laying around and sure enough, I could only get the thing all the way engaged by tapping it in with a hammer, (which I only did about 0.05) as I would likely not have been able to remove it with more force than I wanted to use. I measured the end tang, and its mating slot in the dizzy, they can fit okay, but the outer diameter of the shaft and ID of the dizzy are very tight tight interface fit. Now I appreciate a tight joint for this application, but I can't seat the dizzy without rubber hammering the body down (didn't do that, but would have to), and then I am sure it would be a royal bi$!)h to remove it.

At the moment, I have not resolved this, but it seems like a little reaming/Dremel drum sanding of the ID of the dizzy to make more room for the shaft is the easist solution. I'd rather not remove the spindle and reduce its OD. It also possible that the location of the slot in the end of the dizzy is slightly "off-center" (I know its not in the center) so that as the tang begins to engage, it is pulled sideways and locks the OD against the side. Doesn't feel like this is the case when I play with the spare shaft on the bench, its just crazy tight going in.

So what say you other users? I want to hear from Mike W, Granny and mDec and tell me your situation. Did you have similar problems, or did yours schlip right in like nothing? Maybe you should go out and check if yours are really seated ALL the way down! The base of the dizzy plate and their new lock plate below that, should be totally flat to the front cover mounting surface. No gaps allowed. If your dizzy body is slightly wobbly when you push it side to side, then its not all the way down.

Since Mr. 123IgnUSA is watching/listening to this thread, any similar reports from other users?

Jim

[Mike W]

Jim,

Actually, I had the exact same issue with mine. I also reported it to Ed at 123 and he was quite surprised to hear of the tight fit. He claimed that he had the exact measurements from the end of the spindle, but I also provided him measurements from mine, which turned out to be a little different. He indicated to me at the time that he was going to check his existing inventory and make sure that they conformed to the updated measurements that I provided to him.

In my case, I used a dremel tool to enlarge the ID of the 123 dizzy as well as the slot itself. I was fortunate enough to have a spare spindle laying around, so I used it to make sure that the fit was correct. It was still rather tight when I was done, but it fit nicely without any undue pressure (or hammer) being applied. Probably took me about 30 minutes to get it correct but after that it was smooth sailing.

Hope that helps. As I said, Ed at 123 is aware of this from my own experience and I was told that he was going to make sure any subsequent units that were shipped conformed to the updated measurements that I provided to him. Sounds like that might not have happened or you received a unit before I provided him the updated numbers.

Mike.