jmhtx Posted January 31, 2016 Share #97 Posted January 31, 2016 I thought it might be ground based on the diagram, but with lack a clear instructions left me with a bit a doubt. Could you snap a pic of how you ran it in your set up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted January 31, 2016 Share #98 Posted January 31, 2016 I think that it makes sense when you realize that the thing with the short and long lines is the battery. They're showing the switch supplying power from the positive post of the battery and the blue wire connected to ground to the negative post. It's just an unusual symbol for the battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwtaylor Posted February 3, 2016 Share #99 Posted February 3, 2016 45 years as a senior electronics technician here, that battery symbol is the same one that has been used for a battery for over a hundred years. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EuroDat Posted February 3, 2016 Share #100 Posted February 3, 2016 Over here is a normal battery symbol. The one in the diagram is for a 4 celled battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted February 3, 2016 Share #101 Posted February 3, 2016 I meant unusual for general public consumption. I like the symbol that actually looks like a car battery. Especially good if you're trying to sell your product to non-technical people, for use in their cars. Typical problem with knowledge transfer to the public. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EuroDat Posted February 3, 2016 Share #102 Posted February 3, 2016 I think its the difference between electronics industry and automotive electrics. Like the way we see resistors as a zig zag and in the electronics world I see it mostly as a rectangular symbol We use these symbols where I work mostly for loop sheets and such. http://www.circuitstoday.com/electronic-circuit-symbols 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matias Posted February 24, 2016 Share #103 Posted February 24, 2016 Hello! Read somewhere by accident yesterday that the Mallory Unilite is out of production due to MSDs restructuring. First thought was to try buying one before everybody run out, but then I remembered reading about another even better solution a long time ago. Google helped me finding Ignition123 again, and after reading this very informative thread through it's stupid question time. 1. Understood this Datsun L6 attachment is US developed, at least it isn't listed on the .nl site. However the Swedish dealer that covers the nordic countries list it and I suppose it is the same product all over? Asking because I live in Finland... 2. As I like my car to look as original as possible, but pack a bit more power, I refuse to mount any aftermarket tachs. Also, I think non working original gauges are just as sloppy. What do you guys use? I guess you still need an adapter to be able to use the old original points friendly tach? 3. No ballast resistor with these even if you wanted to right? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted February 24, 2016 Share #104 Posted February 24, 2016 I think the 123 still uses a ballast resistor. It's described in the instructions, I think. Not sure it's a "high energy" electronic ignition, more of a programmable points replacement unit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zKars Posted February 25, 2016 Share #105 Posted February 25, 2016 (edited) The 123 system neither uses or does not use a ballast resistor. It requires between 2 and 3 ohms of primary coil resistance. So if you buy a 1 ohm coil, you have to add a 1 or 2 ohm ballast resistor in line with the +side of the coil to get to the 2-3 ohm target. If you buy a 3 ohm coil, then you skip the ballast resistor... Kapeesh? Okay one more thing to add. Having too little resistance just makes the coil and/or internal transistor switch burn out way before you hoped it would. It's all an operating current hence heat issue. If you HAVE to buy a 0.8 ohm MSD coil on the road somewhere due to a failure, don't sweat it. It will work just fine for weeks. Just don't leave it any longer than you have to. It's not an instant death sentence Edited February 25, 2016 by zKars Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted February 25, 2016 Share #106 Posted February 25, 2016 Good point. Funny though, I seem to remember noting in the past that the 123 did need more resistance on the primary than even a 1978 280Z for example (hence my "high energy" comment), but the recent instructions give a 1 ohm limit. The system also has an automatic shutoff which I don't recall. Who knows, they may have upgraded the electronics. All good. http://www.123ignitionusa.com/123switch6.pdf http://www.123ignitionusa.com/ p.s. I think/thought that it's "kapisch". But it turns out that it's actually capisce. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
123ignitionusa Posted May 18, 2016 Share #107 Posted May 18, 2016 Manuals and Software for the 123ignition are now found here as the 123ignitionusa site has changed a bit. And just a heads up the new Bluetooth version is available. http://123ignitionusa.com/pages.php?pageid=10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeonV Posted May 19, 2016 Share #108 Posted May 19, 2016 Planning to finally get one of these by the end of the year, glad to see improvements are being made! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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