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Just ordered my Rebello 3.0, now what


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I had the "full on" 3.0L with the head work and big cam. I think I used the 225. Pedal feel was stiff, but not like your on a leg press machine haha. I used a braided clutch line and daily drove it from time to time.

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On another note the dude with the 2+2 sent me a 225mm flywheel when i specifically asked him for a 240mm, so i have in my possession a flywheel i dont need.

Ouch, sorry I mentioned it now. I don't how he could not see if it was a 240mm. How hard can it be to measure a clutch disc?

Chas

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Nice build. I went with a Rebello 3.0L stroker with ported SUs three years ago, and still have the grin on my face.

I had it dyno'd because I wanted some semblance of a performance guarantee before it shipped (I'm in Canada and on the other side of the continent) and because they had the carbs and distributor (with Petronix) they could tune it on the dyno and I'd not have to fiddle with it. I've not changed anything on the setup since it shipped to me 3 years and 8000 miles ago.

With his 63DI cam and pacesetter header it made 280hp at 7000rpm. But most importantly, the torque curve is nearly flat with nearly 250ft-lbs from 4k (the lowest rpm he measures on the dyno) through 6k. This is a very tractable setup that has great midrange punch and pulls hard to 7200. You will love this motor around town.

I went with a Fidanza flywheel from Motorport and an ACT clutch. Very happy with both. I'd be reluctant to have your flywheel lightened because I have seen them come apart.

I had planned to run the stock mechanical fuel pump but they didn't build the motor with the eccentric installed on the cam nose. So I installed a Holley electric back by the tank. The wiring for the pump was actually present on my 1/70 built series 1, and after I wiped off 40 years of road grime, the wires actually worked!

As was mentioned, the SUs don't need much fuel pressure to keep the bowl full. Dave recommended 3-4psi for me. I still run rich. I have a 3.90 rear end and 5 speed and I get barely 12mpg.

I'd go with a CDI ignition like Crane or MSD. I found a noticeable improvement in throttle response.

I went with the AZC radiator and new hoses. New alternator and belts. New high capacity starter is a good investment too. Get good plug wires and NGK B8ES plugs is what Dave recommended for my build.

While you're in there, I would change everything previously mentioned plus your heater core hoses.

I have over 8000 miles on my Rebello including track days, and done nothing but oil changes. It has been dead reliable. People hear it idle they think because of the cam lope it's a V8, but once you open it up it just sounds like a very angry six. And it is. You will love it.

Phil

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  • 2 weeks later...

I just ordered the Fidanza flywheel which I verified was a 240mm setup in case anyone else was wondering. Fidanza part number 143281

I've wanted a centerforce centrifugal clutch since I was like 14 so their marketing department is doing something right. I called and verified that a centerforce II series clutch would be rated to about 300 ft/lb so short of a horror story ill be ordering that up when I get over paying more than I intended on a flywheel.

Public notice: Fidanza has billet aluminum flywheels listed for this car that weigh about 15 pounds and cost $220ish. Sounds perfect doesnt it? I called Fidanza and verified they haven't made them for several years. Then I put some feelers out and tried to dig one up anyway, no dice.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Small update and change of plans: Rebello has gone through 3 different N42 heads (2 purchased for this project) and ultimately none of them are serviceable. Since I have a functioning N42 head on the existing motor the plan is now to pull my motor first instead of having the new motor ready when the old one comes out. Motor removal party July 13th

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They did actually. The first one looked OK at first but after deep cleaning they found a few cracks that were not repairable. The second head was warped, and again too far gone to repair. The third head looked OK even after cleaning, they started doing the head work and found a dark spot which ended up being aluminium corroded below the surface likely as a result from sitting exposed to the elements. I am not a machinist but my experience has been to check the following:

1. has the part been exposed to the elements for an extended period of time

2. is the head flat or warped

3. clean the heck out of it and inspect thoroughly including for discoloration

These parts are getting old people

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I just ordered the Fidanza flywheel which I verified was a 240mm setup in case anyone else was wondering. Fidanza part number 143281

I've wanted a centerforce centrifugal clutch since I was like 14 so their marketing department is doing something right. I called and verified that a centerforce II series clutch would be rated to about 300 ft/lb so short of a horror story ill be ordering that up when I get over paying more than I intended on a flywheel.

Public notice: Fidanza has billet aluminum flywheels listed for this car that weigh about 15 pounds and cost $220ish. Sounds perfect doesnt it? I called Fidanza and verified they haven't made them for several years. Then I put some feelers out and tried to dig one up anyway, no dice.

Great information about the 15 lb'er. Thanks.

One note to all as well, the Fidanza 143281 has a 240mm friction surface but is drilled for both the 9 bolt 240 clutch plates AND the 6 bolt 225mm units. Point is, you are not forced to use a heavier 240 clutch plate to negate some of the weight savings, if all you're running is a nice stockish 2.4L.

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They did actually... These parts are getting old people

thanks for that - good info.

i have a head that was cleaned and prepped and i'm going over it carefully to see if there's anything i need to do before going through the trouble of installing it.

so far it's just been fixing a few threaded holes and doing a little bit of flow work on the combustion surface, the rest looks really good.

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