Just ordered my Rebello 3.0, now what

[Zed Head]

There was a thread on Hybridz a year or so ago about the high "American" dyno numbers, started by some Australian guys, I believe.  Rebello was the subject.   PMC Racing had some comments.  Interesting.

 

Did you measure cylinder pressure?  It's an indirect look at compression ratio.  Detonation is essentially a cylinder pressure issue.  Just curious.

[oranngetang]

Wow! I was worried a 10W40 might be too high visc. Interesting the oil weight mindset a person can get in when living up in this climate

 

I found a deal on the Brad Penn Grade 1 10W40 for roughly half-price. Will order a couple of cases, as ZDDP content seems to still be >1200 ppm which is inline with the Rotella stuff that seems to be so popular among those who either can't or won't run a conventional high-zinc racing oil. I would feel uncomfortable running diesel blends in a gasoline engine, and don't understand enough about old-school zinc/phos. blends VS high molyb and the like; Dave did specifically ask I run a high-zinc oil too. The Eneos stuff for example is a synthetic Nippon oil designed for high-revving OHC race engines, yet has very low zinc content and is a Mitsubishi factory oil, from what I've read. In theory that sounds like the ideal oil, but I'll try the green stuff in the longer term and some break-in stuff for now. If the builder mags are raving that Brad Penn is recommended for high lift/duration, high spring-rate flat-tappet valvetrains, then it must work just fine for us.

 

New motor/tranni mounts and wheel studs made it home today, so it might be time for some more wrenching.

 

I agree the dyno numbers appear inflated based on what others are putting down at the wheels and other builders claims, but really 100 HP / L isn't exactly unrealistic. Especially given the experience and parts used to put these in service. With my peak of 282 HP at nearly 3.0 L, on fresh, bored SUs, I can't honestly say the numbers are a lie, and it feels much, much, much more powerful and snappy than my L24, which is in good running order. 130 HP more though??, maybe! The torque is just demonic in comparison.

[oranngetang]

48 Quarts for $220.68 USD, shipped. Thanks Amazon!

[gnosez]

48 qts??? How many engines did you buy?

The 10 qt BSR oil pan with the cooler, filter and lines means we put in 14 qts at the start of the race season. Unless something goes wrong we change it once mid-season.

 

On a street car 5,000 miles plus would be fine and even with an Arizona Z oil pan that's just 6 qts. No cooler is needed on a street car with an NA motor and especially not up in your neck of the woods.

 

The cost per qt makes the 48 attractive however.

 

As to a 90hp loss in the drivetrain, that's more than the normal 15% you'd expect to see. That would work out to a crank hp of about 320 which is far short of the 358 shown on Dave's dyno. And 273rwhp is not close to the cost of that engine build. For less money you could get a turbo set-up making 400+.

[oranngetang]

I've only got what looks to be a factory pan on this one, supplied by Dave. Seemed to take about 5 qt. That's 10 oil changes ish. I do have an external oil cooler I havnt put on yet that'll take about 2 qt, and have been contemplating the azc pan when I eventually order the rear control arms from him... just stock piling cheap oil. This engine may be in and out of the car a few times more next year too so that'll be a drain each go.

It's 30-40 C during the summer where this car lives, and I'm close enough to the border to bring it down to California in the summer should I decide on a dutyfree triples/dyno trip or something like that. I'm having a hard time justifying what would be $600 for an oil pan, but it's awfully nice.

[gnosez]

I have one on the street Z (AZ Z oil pan) and we use one on the back-up L24 for the race car. I've had one on some L series engine for over 10 yrs now. They are very nice.

 

Make sure to get hex bolts as there are a few places on the side of the pan where a normal bolt head doesn't allow you to put a socket to it.

[gnosez]

A nice change of events.

Dave Rebello called and offered to provide me a short block and using my other parts build a replacement motor free of charge.

[oranngetang]

Excellent news! Please post some power figures and comments on the rebuild! Z-Fever hasn't subsided for me yet.

[gnosez]

Just before the 3.2L gave up the ghost it was making 277rwhp and about the same amount of torque at 5800rpm. Torque was mostly level from 4000 to 7000 rpm.

[oranngetang]

Based on Dave's dyno numbers then, what did you see for a loss percentage wise at the wheels? 20%?

[Oiluj]

So... Can anyone say with these Rebello 3.0 engines, that the valvetrain is much louder, almost like a diesel kind of sound in the valve cover when it's running? It's a new to me sound, my L24 never made.

My 2.7 L Rebello L6's valve train does seem a bit noisier than stock.   My valve settings are good, though I'd rather they were slightly loose than too tight..  I suspect it's due to the cam.   It really does run great!

[gnosez]

More like a 25% loss.

As to the noise level, check your valve settings. Measure at the lash pad but get the number from Dave first. You will likely have to cut a feeler gauge to fit at the lash pad. Look online for a narrow set of gauges.