Just ordered my Rebello 3.0, now what

[EuroDat]

A good standard upgrade for the clutch is to go with the 2+2 clutch. It has a 240mm clutch disc compared to the 220mm original and can 700plus lbs of torque. The original is somewhere around 550 lbs.

You will need the 240mm flywheel though.

This way you keep the original light clutch pedal feel.

Chas

Edit: the turbo model 280ZX had this clutch as well. They are a bolt on upgrade including the flywheel.

Edited March 6, 2014 by EuroDat
Turbo clutch

[Zedyone_kenobi]

Thinking about clutches: The upper limit of theoretical power for this car is about 300hp, will a stock clutch system handle that or do I need something like a centerforce?

Zboy: The tip on the return line is great, thanks for that.

Zedyone: I checked out the mallory pump, thats a $300 unit.

I have a 5 speed manual

well you never said it had to be a certain price

[madkaw]

RX-7 pump 39$ quiet!!!

[Kurbycar32]

. lets put it this way, i have Some money but I'm certainly not made of it. If the choice between parts is a $70 carter that we know works but might make noise, and a $129 pump thats perfect i'd spring for the perfect pump. The $300 mallory is too rich I did look into a RX7 pump, I found the main difference is that its a different type of pump . Brand new replacements are around 80 bucks and carter even makes one, I think i might give it a try: https://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/x,catalog,26,partnum,P60504,d,CARTER_P60504.html

Carter overview of pump types:

Carter Fuel Delivery Products. Complete Fuel System Solutions for the Professional. Fuel pumps and accessories.

Heres what I have on the list of things to buy:

• Valve cover gasket
  
• water pump gasket (new water pump last year)
  
• intake/exhaust gasket
  
• Motor mounts
  
• 240mm 280zx turbo clutch kit from LUK, #06-032 (rebello recommended LUK)
  
• Fuel pump
  
• Side post battery and related cables
  

Stuff to do other than the obvious engine swap:

• strip engine bay paint
  
• repair rust found after stripping engine bay
  
• sandblast/paint crossmember
  
• repair/replace/improve battery tray
  
• paint engine bay
  
• make fuel system pretty
  

[gnosez]

24F battery, which moves the negative post to under the body and two new cables (need to measure the ones you have and order the size of the current cables but reverse (black length would become the red length).

[Carl Beck]

If I put - strike that - When I put all that work into repainting the engine bay, I decided to go with an Optima battery.. Just couldn't stand the thought that a liquid filled battery might ever leak, outgas etc - and eat my paint. Expensive - Yes. Piece of mind - Priceless. {a plus is the Optima's seem to hold a charge forever!}.

When your changing the battery cables - go first class with large stranded copper and gold plated terminal ends. Corrosion will be a thing of the past.. Some of the best money I spent on the Z.

good luck with project..

Carl B.

[madkaw]

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/38680-custom-battery-cables-diy.html

[jackboxxx]

Thinking about clutches: The upper limit of theoretical power for this car is about 300hp, will a stock clutch system handle that or do I need something like a centerforce?

Zedyone: I checked out the mallory pump, thats a $300 unit.

I have a 5 speed manual

As someone who has "drank" the Rebello kool-aid (and its really GOOD kool-aid ) I would not hesitate to upgrade your clutch and flywheel, pickup a lightened flywheel and centerforce clutch ( I went with the centerforce II ) and it will not disappoint you. I think the biggest problem you are going to have is wiping the "sh*t eating grin" off your face the first time you take her out for a spin.

note on the fuel pump, since you are keeping the SU's, remebmber they are low pressure carbs..

you dont need a ton of fuel flow to keep them full..I went with the "big bore" SU upgrade from Dave Rebello myself and never had an issue.

[gnosez]

Drank? I've swam in it, First a 3.0L w/2-inch SUs, then a 3.1 w/triples and finally (my wife hopes) a 3.2L 12:2 CR stroker making 358hp@crank running on 100 octane grin inducing monster.

A Mallory supplies the fuel to the 44mm Mikunis and the lack of noise means I can really hear the exhaust (from say a mile away people have been known to explain).

The CF II and a lighter flywheel are the right choice for the 3.0L just remember you will have a bigger than normal drop in rpm once the clutch is engaged. Shift accordingly.

[Kurbycar32]

I converted to a side post Optima red battery yesterday. new battery cables were required. By chance i also received my new inspection light lens from eurodat and installed that too. The install looks much more clean but i want a new metal battery tray installed when the motor is pulled out.

[bhbarr]

Any updates? How much, if you don't mind me asking?

[Kurbycar32]

Dave was pretty clear upfront that i ordered a motor at the beginning of racing season and it would be a while, since i have a running car I wasn't pressing for a fast turn around. Since i last posted here i took my carbs over for modification and to meet everyone. I upgraded the valves and added a "street port" job to my head. Dave showed me a head mid-porting and I was able to see factory casting with stalagmite growing in it vs his mirror finish port/polish job. I expressed that I wasn't interested in the mirror finish but it would be nice to make it smooth inside so the "street port" will be exactly that

Pricing: They seem to have something available for any reasonable budget with options to utilize used parts to cut costs. I happened to have sold my motorcycle for $3500 and that was enough to get me a basic motor with some used parts.

By the way I made a killing on this deal. I had a 65hp motorcycle that I sold and was able to purchase an additional 200hp from the sale for my Z (up from 50, my Z is old and tired) so in the end ill see a 300% profit in HP on that investment