Just ordered my Rebello 3.0, now what

[73str86]

I like your profit in horsepower perspective, as well as the "keep it on the road" plan. My Z was off the road for about 9 months waiting for my 'new' L29. I replaced the radiator as stated above, and replaced every engine accessory except for the fuel pump so far. Still going mechanical.

With the engine out, I also replaced the steering rack bushings and steering coupler.

That is a very reasonable price. Thank you for sharing it. I paid more, AND had to worry about a local race shop's Z familiarity. I always read/believed you couldn't touch one for less than $7000.

[oranngetang]

I just wanted to keep this thread alive as I'm wondering when and how your engine turns out for you. Dave is also currently building me a 3.0L Stroker. I'm not sure if it quantifies as the 'full-on' package, but it includes the "billet" build and my Z-therapy 4 screws will be bored out. Perhaps triples in the future... I sent my dizzy and (obviously) the carbs for dyno and tuning. I'm skeptical about what those modified SU's will put out, but I'm sure the amount of torque I gain will make me grin.

For comparisons sake, I ordered the Fidenza flywheel, KUPP Stage 4 clutch (hope it isn't crap), Mishimoto Aluminum Rad, Mishimoto Silicone Hoses and new valve cover gaskets for (hopefully) a no-delay installation when it arrives. I don't know if the head cover is included with the engine or not. Dave said they typically include a new water pump, and oil pump, etc. Wilwoods 4 piston kits front and rear, AZC front control arms and knuckles, GC lowering coilovers, poly bushing kit, RT diff mount, and 15x9 / 225/50 wheels and tires to help with power. I am planning on running the mechanical fuel pump, and he didn't say it wouldn't work... Will see. I suppose as long as the bowls stay full, that's all that matters, right?

I plan on keeping my R180 (3.364) diff for now, probably having it welded solid and will be swapping in a later year 5 speed to replace my already new_to_me 4 speed...

Lets share dyno numbers, etc.

If there is anything obvious I myself am overlooking, shout it out.

[oranngetang]

Let me also say that Dave, while a busy fella seems to be quite easy to talk to and work with. I'm not super-savvy with this stuff and had a lot of what were probably pretty stupid questions. It was his advice to get a new clutch, flywheel, etc. You just need to ask what you need.

[gnosez]

Note: when you get your engine back check to see if your thermostat is still there.

[oranngetang]

Note: Thermostat and gasket added to "just in case" list.

[Kurbycar32]

Oranngetang that sounds like one hellavuh setup, definitely more bells and whistles than I bit off on and attached to more awesomeness of a chassis. I spoke to Dave last week and yes he is easy to deal with and has answered every question. I am half planning on a lightened flywheel through either getting the maxima "frisbee" or having my buddy lighten it himself at his machine shop, it will be mated with an OEM style clutch or a centerforce. The hold up there is that my car has a 5 speed swap and honestly I have no idea what size or the diameter of the clutch so I'm going to pull it and check before getting the flywheel and clutch ordered up. In an effort to save costs i did authorize Dave to utilize used parts such as an oil pump and exhaust valves (i opted for the enlarged intake valves). I also didn't spring for the dyno session as it was close to 1/3 the cost of the motor for a full day session. If you're buying though ill be happy to let you bolt the motor up for comparison. The one thing i have going for me is that the motor is going into a completely driving car so there shouldn't be any suprises

[oranngetang]

Clutch-wise, and please anyone correct me if I'm wrong as I'd hate to pass on false information. I believe ALL clutches were 8 7/8" (225mm) x 1" x 24 tooth all the way through to the 1983ZX's 5 speed, with the exception that the 2+2 and turbo models had a 9 7/16" (240mm) x 1" x 24 tooth for the additional workload.

Mind you, I've collected this data by scavenging the RockAuto part numbers and descriptions for that decade.

That said though.... The premium clutches on a quick "240z clutch" ebay search will show different results... My ASSUMPTIONS are that the flywheels and clutches are interchangeable and that the larger size was Nissan's answer for a cost effective heavier duty clutch, but I don't know. I'd like to though... Any thoughts?

I believe Dave did mention to me that he preferred to run the "smaller" clutch, which I can only assume means the 225mm plate, and I mentioned I'm running a later year 5 speed.

[Kurbycar32]

i wont dispute your clutch sizes, but with a motor and clutch swap already done who knows what the PO put in there. my plan was use a centerforce if I found a small clutch, and use an OEM type if i found a turbo/2+2 (240mm) system

[oranngetang]

As for my chosen engine, I wasn't going to ship them a core since it's less to buy one than ship it from way up here in frosty Northern Canada, so there is only a distributor, carbs and valve cover being re-used. I'll have to pass on the free-dyno, though it would be entertaining! Buy yourself a side-draft sync. tool if you don't have one!!! They work well for setting up the SU carbs!

I may not have mentioned, just remembered some comments about the electronic 280 dizzy. I'm running the 240Z with a Pertronix (sp) Ignitor to replace the points, sounded like it wouldn't be a problem, and they have a significantly different curve than the later years from what I've read. <4 months left before the snow hits again, I hope all these parts arrive in a timely order... hint hint.

[EuroDat]

Just to add to the info on the flywheels. Both the 225mm and the240mm flywheels will fit.

The pressure plates are not interchangable. I have heard (NOT confirmed) that the 225 will fit to the 240 flywheel, but why would you use a 225 pressure plate on a 240mm flywheel?

The general rule rates the 225mm clutch at 550lbs and the 240mm at 725lbs. There is a thread here with a sketch on how to machine these flywheels showing where and how much to cut. If you follow the sketch it should drop the weight from 23lbs to about 15-16lbs.

[oranngetang]

Are the flywheels themselves actually different? I was under the impression that as long as the clutch friction disc and pressure plate mated up, they could be bolted onto any flywheel. My understanding is the only curve ball would be whether or not the correct clutch collars are being used for the correct application. I stumbled upon a few good threads last night, I'll try to post some links later, I have not had a moment to thoroughly read through them yet... Busy at work again!

[oranngetang]

I think this is the thread you were speaking of.

Lightening the flywheel

I wouldn't get too carried away with taking meat off the stock flywheel unless your machine shop has done this a fair bit. There engines rev pretty high, and I'd hate to think about what the aftermath of a failed flywheel would be. Especially if you were really cruising, in a busy place. Is the Maxima flywheel lighter and interchangeable?

Edited May 13, 2014 by oranngetang