It depends on the catagory you are going to run but the advantage of a 240 is that they are about 300 lbs lighter! The 280 has lots more sound insulating material, electronic gizmos and the heavier R200 diff.

I don't think $500 sounds bad for a 280Z that runs and is in fair to good condition. But I haven't priced to many 280Z's either. Price is always subjective and can be tuff when dealing with a "friend." Many friends have been lost over car deals! I would say that as long as both parties agree on a price it is a fair deal. If you cannot find a better car for that price then it may be worth it.

Is the weight difference from things that can be removed, replaced, or taken out through ud/bd? Undercoating can be removed, is there other sound deadening I'll be stuck with? I know the diff can be changed, and some of the weight is in the bumpers. Seats will be swapped out for race seats at some point. Are there other things I'll be looking at changing? TIA!

I thought of doing a 280 instead of the 240. It does have some advantages such as the better sheetmetal and the improved and extended subframe.

Also, many 240's have been run hard and not properly maintained while the 280's seem to be more lightly used.

Mike

'73 240Z "Open Track Monster in the making!"

Besides the sound deadener and undercoating and bumpers you could change the doors to 240 doors and save little more weight. If the 280 has A/C that can come out too. All in all you might knock off 100 pounds or so. Swap for an R-180 and you can save another 35 pounds ( I think that's the weight difference, I'm not exactly sure) so you sould get the 280 to within close to a 200 pound difference. Going to carbs might help save a few pounds too.

I know my 280 ITS car weighed in at around 2575, while the 240's were all around 2200 give or take a few pounds. I put a 2 inch cage in my car so that hurt my weight a little.

I guess the biggest question would be this. Can you find a 240 for $500 that is in the same shape chassis wise as the 280?

If you are building a legal BSP 280Z:

1. You cannot remove the sound deadening material.

2. You cannot remove the factory undercoating - but can remove any dealer applied stuff.

3. You must run with the 280Z bumpers.

280Zs are competitive in regional events, but not at National level competition. A "to the limit" BSP prepared 240 and 280 will have the same horsepower, brakes, and suspension but the 280 will weight at least 250 lbs more.

FYI... ITS prepared 240Zs must weight a minimum of 2435 lbs at the end of the race with driver aboard. An ITS 280Z must wieght around 2700 lbs.

John, I gave the weights as I remembered them since the last time I raced they didn't weigh the car with the driver, you just had a minimum chassis weight.

So what you are saying is basically the chassis rules for BSP are quite close to IT as far as what you can or can't take off the car. So if I were to run my IT 280 I guess I would have to run it in FP since it has a fuel cell and all the undercoating is off? I've been thinking about doing a couple Solo's with it but haven't decided if it would be worth the effort. What is the best web-site to get the solo classifications from? They don't allow the 280 in E Production yet (probably couldn't afford it anyway) and it isn't competitive in ITS anymore so I was just wondering if it would be worth the effort to try Solo.

You can run an IT 240/260/280Z in BSP. Rules section 13.0 states:

"Cars listed as eligible and preparred to the current national Improved Touring rules are premittied to compete in their respective Street Prepared classes. Neither Street Prepared nor Touring cars are permitted to interchange preparation rules..."

So, a Z built to the SCCA GCR for IT can compete in BSP but it cannot use any of the preparation allowances for Street Prepared. For example: you have to run 14" x 7" wheels (IT rules).

Thanks John,

Guess before I decide what to do with the car, I better get some rule books and do some reading. Can't see much sense in racing IT anymore since they are allowing so many new cars in, it used to be nothing but Z's, now it's just a few of the die-hards who won't part with their Z's.

Why are you not able to swap out the bumpers? The cars are listed on the same line under the Street Prepared listing so it should be a legal update/backdate, no? Also, I thought I remembered hearing about people removing the undercoating from their SP car, but I may have been thinking about IT prep ( guess I'm on too many mailing lists )

In IT the update/backdate rule applies to the specific model line.

I'm not sure but I think SP would be the same way.

For instance, later 280's cam with a 5 speed so any year 280 can use a 5 speed but not 240's or 260's. Also R-180's were used from the factory on later 280's so any year 280 can use either a 180 or 200. Subsequently since 260's came with either carbs or fuel injection either is legal, but most people went with carbs.

Hope that helps explain the u/b rule a little better. And yes, in IT you can remove the undercoating but according to John you can't for SP unless it is an IT car which wouldn't be allowed to use SP prep rules such as the 15 inch wheels which are not allowed in IT.

In Street Prepared it is done by which vehicles are listed on the same line in the Solo rulebook. The 240/260/280 are all listed on the same line so you can update/backdate between all models. Engines, transmissions, or transaxles must be done as a unit, but you can swap them between years. Knowing this, how close do you think a SP 280 can get in weight to an SP 240? Thanks!

John really hit the question on the head with his answers.

The question are going to be a serious autocrosser or racer.

I have looked into this alot. Am I willing to fork out 10 to 25K

on a dedicted racer. I don't have that kind of money , so my

answer was no. I am going to mess around with my car and

use if for Street Mod 2. I think the days of a Z being competitive

at the regional and nationals level in BSP are about over.

I noticed that Vic Sias it running a BMW now in Street Mod.

MY early plans call for just going through the suspension and

making sure everything is either new or redone. I am also

going to go through my stock braking system. These are things

that I would have to do anyway to have a good running car.

John and others recommended I take a drivers school first.

I did look into some driving schools and have plans to take

a few of them. Again this is something I would do if I was going

all out or just recreational.

The best thing is with the plan I have I am not wasting money

on things that I would have to change later. John and a few

others really pointed that out to me.

Thanks John for some more great information !!

Pictures of my car are coming soon ;-)