lance75_280z Posted February 25, 2003 Share #1 Posted February 25, 2003 When applying POR-15, do you put it on the inside or outside of your car? My Z was & still is pretty solid accept for some very little cosmetic rust spots here & there. My floor boards were getting wet until I put a cover over it. Since then I have pull ALL of the carpet out and noticed that the boards were still solid. It hadrust coloring though. Should I pour the POR 15 there or under the floor boards? I was planning on getting it painted & treated around July or Aug. Should I wait until then or do it now? I'm also ready to get it tagged up & ready for the spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TKR514 Posted February 25, 2003 Share #2 Posted February 25, 2003 I'm facing the same thing. I'm NOT going to use ROR15 on the inside of the car. I just picked up a sandblaster and will clean the inside of the car, then use self etching primer and then body color paint. I don't know about POR15, but I believe that it does release cyanides when curing. Not too good in a closed car... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lance75_280z Posted February 25, 2003 Author Share #3 Posted February 25, 2003 Is this the same thing as a sander? I hear about sandblasting all the time but never asked what it was. If it is a machine of sort, how much would it cost? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inline4 Posted February 25, 2003 Share #4 Posted February 25, 2003 Originally posted by poppalance Is this the same thing as a sander? I hear about sandblasting all the time but never asked what it was. If it is a machine of sort, how much would it cost? a good air compressor, space to work, sandblasting equipment. and cost depends Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EScanlon Posted February 25, 2003 Share #5 Posted February 25, 2003 POR 15 once cured does not continue to exhude cyanides into the air. Curing takes approximately 3-6 hours depending on temperature and humidity. The product recommends that you use it in a well ventilated environment and recommends the use of an organic vapor breather if you're spraying it. Personally, I recommend using the breather even if you're brushing it on.While it makes an excellent rust-proofing material for areas where the finish is not critical, I wouldn't recommend it for exterior applications where a finer finish is desired. By that I mean the visible exterior of the car.Areas underneath the car, fender wells, underboidy, frame rails, this is a perfect use for this paint. Yes it may "fog" over time, but it is the underside of the car where you want strong chip resistant paint.I wouldn't just "pour" the POR on and hope for the best. You'll get better results if you degrease and prep the metal according to directions before you brush it on.If you do use it on exterior metal, you MUST scuff it to accept a coating of any other paint / primer.Sandblasting is a method of "sanding" using high pressure air blowing a stream of abrasive and air on to the surface being "sanded". The most basic of sandblasters is a bucket, a syphon hose attached to a blower and a source of compressed air. You stick the syphon hose into a bucket filled with abrasive and allow the venturi effect in the blower / syphon connection to pull the abrasive up out of the bucket and into the air stream. This system is generally priced under $50 (not including the compressor and air lines.)Another method is the Gravity Drop method, where the bucket is now placed above the air line and gravity feeds the abrasive into the air stream and out the delivery hose. Systems range from $50 to $120 depending on size and features..The final method is Pressure tank. Same basic concept as the gravity drop, but now the abrasive is inside a pressurized container when mixed into the air stream. This method is the most powerful of all, as no pressure is lost in injecting the abrasive into the air stream. Systems can range from $70 to several thousand dollars.All of the sandblasting methods require a large CFM capacity compressor in order to be effective. All of these methods will need some sort of containment area or area where it doesn't matter that abrasive is going all over the place.Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
santamaus Posted June 2, 2003 Share #6 Posted June 2, 2003 So---who's had paint applied on top of the POR 15? How well does the paint last? The manufacturer says you can paint over it, but I'd expect them to say that! Who has actually had real world experience? Does POR 15 sand at all? If I coat the entire metalwork of the car in it, can I expect to be able to sand the surface smooth and get a good, long lasting coat of paint on it? Or will the the paint bubble, chip, or otherwise turn to crap in short order? Obviously, total glossy smoothness in the engine bay, or under the carpet, underbody, or interior is not necessary, only nice, but the exterior is another story.So, what experience have you?Thanks,Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bambikiller240 Posted June 2, 2003 Share #7 Posted June 2, 2003 Originally posted by santamaus Does POR 15 sand at all? If I coat the entire metalwork of the car in it, can I expect to be able to sand the surface smooth I've not tried to paint outer body panels that have been POR'ed, but POR15 is (to borrow a phrase) "Rhino-Tough". You can scuff the surface, but as for gettign it smooth enough to apply a nice finish, that would be difficult. You'd have the best chance of success when the POR has been applied by thinning it a bit and spraying it.(Read the 2nd paragraph of EScanlon's post) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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