Well I figured out how to get some pics loaded. As you can see there is a ton of wires to go thru on this project. MS does a good job of labeling each wire -but you better grab your readers and a magnifying glass when your old like meLOL

I elected for 8ft harnesses which seems to get me just enough. MS also offers 12 ft harnesses, so depending where you mount the ECU. Mine is mounted on the trans tunned by the heater panel. The schematic is very legible but if you are new to wiring, you will need to study these. I will never be able to use ALL the wires in both harnesses, but there are a huge amount of flexibility and options with this level of ECU. It's almost ridiculous I am only using this much capability for just ignition right now. This system is capable of 12 injectors, boost, NO2, ect... I actually eliminated probably 20 wires in an effort to have only one harness running thru the firewall.

First was developing the power circuit, which many later models have. In 1971 there wasn't any relays on these cars. Get to know relays, they are the handiest electrical item on your car. I actually took the power circuit(refering to getting power to the ecu from the ignition with fuel failsafe) from a 83zxt that I parted out. The car was a showroom piece that had been totaled, but the wiring all looked new. So I stole the two blue relays with holder and spliced them into my MS. The fuse box is a 6 circuit that works well for the MS. The reason you see two of them is that one is for the MS circuit and the other fuse box is just for powering relays for my headlights directly from the alternator. The MS gets it power directly from the battery which helps cut down on NOISE in the electrical system-which is bad.

I decided to go with COP(coil on plug) ignition for quicker charging and stronger spark. The coils(D585) are basically truck coils with have their own heat sink and are considered smart coils. The advantage here is that there is less wiring to control these and they are the hot and CHEAP set-up for a hot ignition. I made my own bracket and bought a complete set of coils and wires from craigslist for cheap. I just modified the original harness for it to work on the L6.

Sweet. thanks for posting here...

Charles

Just for you Charles:)

Well remember the part about the wearing your readers, I guess I need a new pair.

The MS has tests that you can run in the software to make sure your wiring is correct and mine did NOT pass.

In test mode you can actually test fire each coil and watch the spark to see if corresponds to the correct firing order. What I found was that my coil connects were flipped around backwards and I got 3&4 cylinder miss wired. Easy test that saves lots of guessing.

The software is pretty used friendly if you have done your homework. Another words, don't expect to know what your trigger settings are if you don't know what you have.

Good news is I got it running!!!!

The biggest obstacle or decision is to decide in what manner you are going to tell the ECU where the engine is in it's rotation. Without this info the ECU can do nothing. Since a 71 electrical has no such provision, I improvised and followed an example I found on hybridz. Hall effect sensors are another great invention right up there with relays. I installed one as the pic shows and it's worked great so far and it was 20$. I had to modify my flywheel and that was cheap too. This gives me info on the crank, I will need to do something else similiar for the cam which will allow for full sequential-

I included pics showing where I installed the 'box" and the wires.

I now have the engine running, but haven't driven it yet. The engine starts and idles as good as it ever had. I have a generic timing map installed right now, but the engine seems to like it.

Now the hardware is about done, it's time for tuning!!!!!!!

Awesome stuff Stephen! So is your career, locomotive engineer. Very cool stuff.

Video soon on how good she runs?

Remember when the teacher yelled out you in class and told you that "you will never amount to anything looking out the window and daydreaming"-well I'm doing alright-----woo wooo!

I'm lucky to drive more horsepower then most people dream about.

Video comes as soon as it gets on the ground.

Haha, yes I do remember!

Well I have been driving my Z around for a couple of weeks now with no dizzy-seems weird. I have a lot of tuning to do, but it will be clean laptop type tuning:cool:

I used some basic timing specs based on how my zx dizzy was curved to get me in the ballpark. I need to tack my 17 year old son with me to punch in numbers as I am driving to dial it in better. But right now, it starts easy, idles perfect and has as much power as before.

The lack of wires associated with the old ignition set-up sure cleans things up.

Nice clean engine bay. Just what I like to see. Nice job!

Can't do anything like that in CA.

Well the MS install continues on with fuel.  I sold off my Mikunis and now have this N42 non EGR intake mounted up with a 240sx TB. I'm going to be using 26lb Bosch high impedance injectors on this Pallnet fuel rail. I'll be using a drop in HP fuel pump and an Aeromotive FPR. I am upgrading the fuel lines to 3/8" supply and return. No fancy AN fittings , just barb fitting and clamps.

As you can see I have most of the wiring hooked up. With MS 3X and high impedance injectors it's just hook up power and ground and done. TPS is matched to the TB. It was just a matter of throwing numbers in the software to get everything jiving . I put the IAT on top where the injector use to be. I haven't decided on the coolant sensor yet as far as where to mount it. This is a MN47 head to there is a CHT sensor on the head, but its location might be an issue with my coil bracket. 

Looking good!

Well it's been a slow process , on step at a time . Trying to get a new shop built and doing this at the same time is almost too much.

Got the wiring sorted and fuel lines plumbed and tested. The plan was to use a fuel injected head , but I wanted to do some work on my MN47 before I bolted it on. I decided to just make the E 88 a fuel injected head instead . It was going to take less work in the end and I know it's a good working head, so less unknowns getting the FI working is better for me. 

I drilled the head for the N42 intake and notched the ports for the injectors . I also shaved off another .020 off the head to get me to 37cc. The hardest part was drilling the head , there isn't much room for error and it's a bit of a challenge to mount the head for drilling to get it square.

Going to do a quick valve lapping and head cleaning and call it good. The weather is getting nice and I don't have a Z