Bought a right hand dash for the Fairlady, hope I don't have the same problem.

I too bought a new one when I was restoring my Z, I do remember that I had to adjust the Glovebox door and catch. I also needed to tweak the mounting tabs for the Center Vent Assy. Looking at the pics, I suggest that you look at it again and try to bend the tabs in a little at a time on the center vent area. For the Glovebox door, I seem to remember there is some wiggle room on the hinge, there are slots where the screws go through to allow for some adjustment. Try removing the catch and adjust the door until it is where you want it - replacing the catch when you are done... Remember to be patient with this old plastic -even though the dash's mfr date is more recent, the center vent and GB door may be less forgiving. Snap/crack some of these interior pieces and you'll be "Attached to another object by an inclined plane, wrapped helically around an axis"...

Thanks for the tips. I'll keep working on it. The glove box door hinge has lots of adjustment, you are right there, but the pic I sent is the best fit I could get. The whole padded dash part is shifted down and left on that end relative to the dash frame so the dash light switch cannot make contact because it is too high and the door binds on the right side even after all adjustment.

I think I can tweek the center vent assembly brackets to reduce the gap, I just hate flexing the dash because the end result on a 30 year old new dash pad could be CRAAACK! Let's hope that is not what happens.

I'll post the results good or bad.

Sometimes, you have to stop to wonder why a NOS part is still available in the original box 40 years after it was made. Could be it was defective from the factory and set aside 40 years ago.

I've found that to be the case with a NOS steering wheel I bought for my Avanti. It was a "factory second" but much better than the one it was replacing.

Dennis

Sometimes, you have to stop to wonder why a NOS part is still available in the original box 40 years after it was made. Could be it was defective from the factory and set aside 40 years ago.

I've found that to be the case with a NOS steering wheel I bought for my Avanti. It was a "factory second" but much better than the one it was replacing.

Dennis

Dennis, I think you might be on to something. But like your steering wheel, with all the bull%#*t I had with this dash, it is worlds away better than what I took out.

Now on to the door panels which have never been out of the box.

Dennis, I think you might be on to something. But like your steering wheel, with all the bull%#*t I had with this dash, it is worlds away better than what I took out.

Now on to the door panels which have never been out of the box.

Gotta love the surprises that come with working with old cars

Good luck with the door panels!

Dennis

Dennis, I think you might be on to something. But like your steering wheel, with all the bull%#*t I had with this dash, it is worlds away better than what I took out.

Now on to the door panels which have never been out of the box.

midman,

When you get to the door panels, something that may save you distress later has to do with the little metal clips that fasten to the

door panel backer board (masonite) and clip into the metal door frame. The part of these clips that press into the little plastic cups

placed in the door frame are adjustable. I found it very helpful if, before attachingthese clips to the door panel, insert them by hand

into the metal door frame to test tightness of fit. If too tight, pinch them with pliars slightly so that, when installed with

the door panel, the panel can be removed at a later date without breaking out the holes and damaging the masonite backer board.

I may be talking about the obvious, but it never hurts to revisit techniques that can prevent damaging parts down the road.

Dan

Edited March 17, 201411 yr by AZ-240z

Very good advice you've given here Dan!

midman---

I just installed new panels this last weekend. Here is what I did.

Articulate the clips to match the panel holes and the holes in the door before applying sufficient pressure to drive the clip into the cup.

I mean these clips must be lined up correctly before applying pressure or you risk damaging the vinyl from the head of the clip, as there is only a thin layer of non-woven batting between the clip head in the door panel hole and the backside of the vinyl. Install the door panel from the lock knob portion of the panel forward to the front of the window frame in a hinging motion using firm downward pressure with the window rolled slightly up so you can see it from the top of the door. Once you have the top of the panel securely pressed into position work down from the top to the bottom of the panel.

Crouch on your knees and/or lay on your back as required and pivot the clips in the door panel hole so that you can visually determine that the clip lines up with the cup in the door.

Use the rubber butt end of a hammer centered over the clip as you push firmly to drive the clip into the cup.

It took me a little while to get the hang of it, but all went smoothly, and the new panels look great!

As Dan said---not meaning to overstate the obvious--- just passing along my recent experience

Best of luck---you deserve it after fighting with the dash!

Jim D.

"Zup"