So I did the upgrade, but when I couldn't find the correct green-red wire that was explained herehttp://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html, I tried to unplug some of the other wires from the triangular/3wire plug. One side is all black and the other is red blue n green.

This guy seems to have had the same issue.

280zx Alternator Swap Into 75 280z - Z-Car - Ratsun Forums

Car runs now, but the headlights won't turn on. The driving lights do. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Any help would be great. I'm now looking through the wiring diagrams I'm finding online.

Here's a shot of her....

What wires did you end up connecting to each other? Are any wires loose? Without that information, you will only receive guesses.

So the blue and green wire that are not attached(one has electrical tape on it), are supposed to be in the same socket as the yellow, I believe. I just don't know which order. The other side of that plug(female) is all black wires, so I wouldn't even know which to put in even If i had a diagram.

Edited March 10, 201411 yr by nissanthanh

Okay, now I have more to go off of when I look at it later. That is if BeermanPete doesn't beat me to it.

Thanks SteveJ. I'll also have to check all my fuses later to see if it's just a blown fuse.(I know, I should have done this first, but I'd still have to figure out what those plugs are for, if they're even necessary...)

Have you checked the fusible link? The green one that's sitting out in the open in your second picture? So close you could stick it with a meter probe.

The headlight circuit wires are all red with stripes or white.

Sorry, which green one in the 2nd picture(the blurry one)? I was in a rush to work so I took a few photos for reference and the 2nd was blurrier than the first closer shot.

I'm not suggesting that you do the modification in the attached link. But there is a drawing that shows the link. (Two link meanings in one post! - woohoo).

I might have the color wrong. Apparently it's the black one, per two posts previous, the FSM drawing. Although black is the high amp link so that doesn't make sense. atlanticz shows black as alternator and ignition relay. So there's confusion. The 75 FSM seems to have mistakes.

Either way, worth a check.

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fusiblelinks/index.html

Edit - black in 75 appears to run many things. They added two more links in 76, splitting the headlights out on to their own. So, overall, my post is only helpful in that it directs you to the FSM. Your 75 would not run if the black link was blown.

Edited March 10, 201411 yr by Zed Head

ah-ha! i'll be sure to check that when I get a chance this week. Thanks Zed Head!

hopefully i'll fix this just in time before my dapper projectors come in. =) Then she'll finally be my DD. I just hope the other wires in my first picture that are hanging out(yellow is in, green, blue are out of socket) aren't needed after I replaced the alternator... *crosses fingers*

I think that some of those extra wires are hot. One probably hot all the time (connected to the battery), the other hot when the ignition is on. Better check and insulate.

Here's a check that you should do - with everything off, disconnect and reconnect the battery negative post. Look for a spark at the terminal when you connect and listen for a relay click in the cabin. There's a problem with 76 that you may or may not have with 75.

Okay. So I'll have someone sit in the cabin and listen for a click.

What problem does the 76 have? And what if there are no relay clicks from cabin?

If there isn't a spark, then I'm good? Ugh... it all started because of the stupid '75 not having that green+red wire that was supposed to be there as stated but was capped off....

Okay, so let's get this straight. The wiring diagram of the 75 identifies the wire from the engine bay harness going to the 1 pin on the voltage regulator connector as green/red. You say that wire was not present. I see a blue wire in the picture. Does it get 12 VDC when you put the key into the Run/On position? Does it lose 12 VDC when the key is off? Was the blue wire next to the green wire on the 6-wire connector? If so, that's the same as green/red. That would go to the white/black wire.