Rubber caps to block coolant lines - NO !

[Stanley]

Less than 6 months ago put these Dorman caps on the heater tee and head (to heater) coolant outlet. They're already shot.

Guess I'll use some tapered rubber plugs with a silicon rubber cap from

M-C (clamped over the plugs) instead, until I get the heater hooked up.

[Zed Head]

Do you have the part numbers? For future reference.

[240260280z]

Typical mainland Chinese... looks like a cap, feels like a cap but it ain't. It's a polished turd that fakes a real cap.

Mainland China specializes in this and they are very good at it. Now that their economy is cooling, they are using even more watering-down methods.

Now I avoid everything I can from China or labelled "imported for".

For your problem, use non-chinese hose ~ 4" and 2 hose clamps. Stick a stainless bolt in the end and clamp it.

[Zed Head]

Dorman is an America-based company. Ultimately they are responsible for specifying and controlling product qualities. To hash it over one more time - the off-shore companies just produce to the specs. they're contracted to produce to. This is an American issue entirely.

Corporate Info

But, all I really wanted to know is what Dorman designed the parts to do. Maybe you're using vacuum line plugs on the cooling system.

[Stanley]

Just checked Dorman website. They call them vacuum plugs and also heater bypass plugs. When you click on the heater bypass plugs it also calls them vacuum plugs.

[Zed Head]

Bummer. Dorman probably offers a lifetime replacement on those parts that don't work.

If you're in a hurry you could loop a section of heater hose from one nipple to the other. Won't look pretty but you'll have the right materials in the right place.

[Stanley]

Stopped by Ace hardware and got some tapered rubber plugs, two for the 5/8" ID hose barbs, and two for the 3/4" hose barbs. Hope I won't need the corkscrew to remove them. Hate to say it, but also got a packet of Dorman caps just so I can drive until the my silicon caps from M-C get here. Will also get a stainless steel BSPT plug for the water outlet. If I looped it I'd still need to cap the 3/4" end on the tee where the manifold heater line used to hook up. Might solder a metal cap on that one, since it's no longer connected to anything.

Didn't see how bad that cap (and the other caps) was until I uploaded that shot and checked it out on the computer. Probably saved me a call to the tow truck.

Weather is warming up, so fixing the heater is moving down on the "to do" list.

Edited March 11, 2014 by Stanley

[djwarner]

If you are talking about a classic cork shape, I'd worry about them popping out under pressure. I were you, I'd use the classic approach of using 2" of hose, a short bolt, and two hose clamps.

[John Coffey]

Silicone caps from McMaster-Carr. Good to 600 degrees F and 300 psi.

[Stan2]

Great info regarding the caps! And the Silicone caps from McC would fit the bill more than likely. I went with the 2" piece of radiator hose and a #8 bolt for $2.80 -Thanks! 

[heyitsrama]

definitely not the way to do it, but i've used a large spark plug to plug up a heater hose...

[AK260]

I’ve used copper end caps with a piece of copper pipe soldered in and a jubilee clip to great effect. The PO had used the bolt method which had corroded a lot reacting with the coolant.

 

The copper method works a treat and totally heat proof!

 

 

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