ECM Questions 240z to 280z/zx swap??

[madkaw]

I would run a Mega Squirt but I would rather not deal with that. I had problems with my last MS.

And once I get a NA AFM and go threw it alittle more I may take you up on that offer. Are you apart of "IMIN"?

I follow IMIN on FB but really haven't done anything with the club yet.

Did you do the MS install or get someone's else's issues?

Hopefully get my car on the road soon and I can cruise out that way if needed.

[Unfairlady]

Alright so I received that NA AFM and it didn't really help. I think there is something in my fuel rail maybe. I am not sure but whatever it is is getting worse and worse. It won't even move right now honestly. It won't hold an idle and is missing out bad. I am going to pull the fuel rail tomorrow and hopefully that has something to do with it..

And Hellfire, I've never heard of that before. Maybe in the future I may switch to something like that depending on price and such but for now I really just want to be able to get it going . It's becoming really stressful.

And on my other car with MS3 I built it and all the such but it was more of a wiring harness issue. It was my first EMS swap and I am not much for tuning and the engine I had it running was an engine that no one really did anything like that that I could find. So i had to ballpark my tune and shoot from there and its just bad memories. I would rather not deal with that for a little bit. But atleast on this I would have good support because obviously people have done it before.

[superlen]

Bummer on the wrong AFM not being the only problem.....time to go back double-check the basics. The fuel rail & fuel pressure is definitely one of them. You might also check your plugs if you haven't pulled them in a bit. All of the fuel shenanigans may have fouled them pretty bad.

Is the car now running rich or lean? And can you manually play with the AFM flap to get it to idle? I left the cover off so you could tweak with it. Assuming it's something like the fuel pressure off or wrong injectors, you should be able to make it settle down and idle great by just manually adjusting the flap. When you manually adjust the flap, you're basically taking over the mixture control. Note:That AFM and a stock NA ECU however will definitely idle your car properly if everything else is right. I'm just suggesting to manually adjust it to learn more about what else could be wrong.

Len

[EuroDat]

You can test the rail by removing the FPR and doing a flow test. The pump should free flow at least 2litres per minute into a container. I did one last weekend, but I did it after the fuel filter. There is a photo in the thread http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/fuel-injection-s30/51923-weekend-drive-engine-hesitating-then-gave-up-altogether-water-fuel.html

That would save you removing the fuel rail.

Chas

[superlen]

Chas,

Thanks. The free flow flowrate number is good info to know. As much garbage and rust I had in my tank before cleaning it out, I should really test mine to see where it's at.

Len

[Unfairlady]

I was going to try to get time tonight to check that.. and the plugs I checked and they seemed fine Sunday. Is there any other electrical sensor that could cause symptoms like this that I could check while I am at it?

[superlen]

As far as sensors, the big three for poor running (usually rich) are AFM, CLT, & ECU. The IAT, AAR, Cold Start Valve, basically everything else can be removed and/or disconnected and you will still run fairly well. At least they wouldn't cause the symptoms you're describing. And, I've never even heard of a confirmed dead IAT on a Z car.

Remember, the above is true if you have the correct fuel pressure & injectors.

Timing/ignition are of course the other half of the equation.

Len

[Unfairlady]

Got it running decent yesterday (still wont get above 3k RPM) but as the day went on the car seemed to be progressively getting worse mechanically. went on a drive to the gas station (around 8 miles away) by the time I got back the car was white smoking a tad bit on starts. temp was good. I didn't rag it I just cruised there and back. started missing out. so I parked it. I checked the compression when I first picked it up but Idk if it was because the car hadnt been ran in awhile the compression checked out fine but I don't know if something happened in between now and then. (I turned it over by hand when I was at the PO house to check the compression)

So I am running another compression check tonight if I get the chance and seeing if maybe from sitting for so long then me messing with it caused something. I may end up in a l28 rebuild very soon. If so I am going to go higher compression flat tops and just order some webers and try to avoid FI.

[Unfairlady]

Checked the compression all came out around 130-135. The car seems fine after I messed with the ignition a bit. found a leak on the thermostat housing and it was spraying right on the cap. Idk how I didn't see it before but It was a very small jet stream straight to the cap. Running 17 degrees advanced at idle on the dot. The car seems to want to over fuel. So I was going to try to adjust the AFM but it still will not rev above 3k rpm and I want to fix that before I get into the fuel ratio.

[Unfairlady]

So the car is still not running tip top. the warmer the car gets the worse the issue gets. til I get to the point where I cant touch the throttle at all. I think its the TPS. I took it apart and and it seems okay I aligned everything properly but it still is having problems. I thought I had everything exactly where it needs to be and still nothing. I have no idea anymore. I have checked everything..