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I may be buying a 280Z soon, need some explanation on differences with 240Z


jaccovdzaag

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Hi all,

I do not own a Z at the moment, therefore, I won't be introducing myself (yet) in the introduction topic. I do plan, on buying a 280Z. This will happen in the next few months.

Although, I will do a short introduction..

My name is Jacco van der Zaag, and I live in The Netherlands. I'm 20 years old, serve at the Submarine Service, and I'm a carnut. I own 4 cars at the moment, which are:

1986 Fiat Ritmo (Strada) 130TC Abarth

1992 Alfa Romeo 75 2.0TS

1980 Alfa Romeo Alfetta 2.0

1989 Nissan Sunny 1.6 Coupé

I am almost done with rebuilding the Ritmo and Alfetta. They will be my cruizing mobiles. the 75 is going to be a trackday car, and the Sunny is my daily driver.

Now, in my neighbourhood, there is a cardealer. And he does own a 280Z. And some 240Zs...

Point is. The 240's are horrible. I haven't seen them yet, but from the pictures, the interiors look worn out. Totally. Dents everywhere, Some rust. They are all Californian imports though. All the 240's are late models. '72 and on. He does have a early '77 280Z, which looks great. The interior is far more better than the other cars, and the paint doesn't look to bad. Though, I don't know, of all the cars, what the rust levels are, I do know, the cars are all functional. Hand the keys, and drive.

Now, I've been brainstorming with a friend of mine. 240Z or 280Z? I know the following facts of a 240Z:"

  • Lighter.
  • More agile.
  • 4 speed.
  • More rust sensitive.
  • Electrical drama.
  • Of course, the original model.
  • None of the huge arse bumpers, or the hood vents.
  • R180 differential?.

This is what I know of a 280Z:

  • Heavier, don't know how much.
  • A bit less agile, but that's a weight thing.
  • 5 speed.
  • Better protected against rust, water, stuff.
  • Wiring loom is better than 240Z.
  • Without the horrible bumpers, almost the same as 240Z.
  • R200 differential.
  • Maybe some other technical improvements.

Now, I know, the 280 was delivered with the horrifying bumpers. I can ditch them. I would pleased to do. Second, to me, the 280Z seems a better platform. Maybe some technical misfits were deleted as a learning of the Ãœrmodel. It has the L28, with a better R200 differential. A 5 speed, which is also good. Rear sway bar, if I'm correct, is standard fitted on a 280Z.

Only point is... Those ugly parking lights, in the front grille. Can it be changed to a 240Z look? With the parking lights in the bumper? Everyone knows what I mean I guess.

Or the rear lights.. Can I fit in a 240Z tailpanel, to fit 240Z lights?

There are 4 points, in which a 280 irritates me:

  • Rear lights
  • Louvres in the hood.
  • Parking lights in the grille.
  • Side linings, with the chrome bar, and under the door.

I hope to hear from you guys, some input!

Jacco

Edited by jaccovdzaag
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Jacco,

The 240 is a better track car. The 280 is a better GT. Most examples of each will have their fuel system issues. The 280 has an early L-Jetronic EFI, which is an open-loop analog system. Once you get it working correctly, it will be much more reliable than carbs. However, it can be an aggravating system to learn and to get working right. It won't help you by giving you fault codes. Superlen (on this list) is currently working on a drop-in replacement digital ECU that will modernize our EFI systems. The 280 also has electronic ignition, vs. points in the 240. Finally, the 280 has a heavier and better alternator. Personally I like the 280. It was the cool sports car of my generation. And yes, I even love the horrible bumpers!

Edited by FastWoman
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Are there any points to look for? Weak spots? Rust areas?

You said you read the link I posted. It has much if not all of the information you requested. Please note the topics on the left side of the screen.

post-5413-14150827931112_thumb.jpg

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"So engine wise, the 280 is better?"

That depends on whether you like carbs. Some people love them. I hate them. For overall drivability, yes, I think the 280's fuel system is better. (The engine is mechanically about the same.) The only caveat is that a hot restart after about 20 min of sitting can be rough, depending on the fuel you use. After another 20 min, the problem goes away. It's a known issue with the EFI in these cars. However, if you have to start your car hot, it will start easily enough. It just won't run very well until you get started down the road.

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Asking which is better is a loaded question. You will get a lot of pro's and con's from both the 280Z & 240Z groups. In the end all the negatives you mentioned are changable.

I ended up with a 280Z because it was absolutly the best rust free Z I could find. Its an ex Cal car that has been in a heated garage for the last 25years. Since then Im doing my best to make it look like a 240ZLOL. I have changed the front bumper and the above bumper turn signals to 240Z and the back will be bumperless soon. Not sure if Ill go so far as to change the taillights.

There is nothing stopping you from putting a L28 and 5sp in a 240Z. The SU's will work on the L28, might need larger needles and the later ignitions and alterators are readily available.

Rust was my driver when looking for a Z. They all have it somewhere, just have to look long enough.

The website Steve linked is a great source for information

Chas

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Jacco, I would just echo a lot of what has been said already. But it sounds like you are looking to buy from one importer who has a number of cars to choose from, would you mind letting us know who this person is? Just out of curiosity it would be interesting to see how the overseas sellers describe and sell to EU.

Personally, I went for an early 240z and then installed a 280z driveline, light car - lots of power - just don't crash.

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Point is. The 240's are horrible. I haven't seen them yet, but from the pictures, the interiors look worn out. Totally. Dents everywhere, Some rust. They are all Californian imports though. All the 240's are late models. '72 and on. He does have a early '77 280Z, which looks great. The interior is far more better than the other cars, and the paint doesn't look to bad. Though, I don't know, of all the cars, what the rust levels are, I do know, the cars are all functional. Hand the keys, and drive.

Now, I've been brainstorming with a friend of mine. 240Z or 280Z? I know the following facts of a 240Z:"

  • Lighter.
  • More agile.
  • 4 speed.
  • More rust sensitive.
  • Electrical drama.
  • Of course, the original model.
  • None of the huge arse bumpers, or the hood vents.
  • R180 differential?.

This is what I know of a 280Z:

  • Heavier, don't know how much.
  • A bit less agile, but that's a weight thing.
  • 5 speed.
  • Better protected against rust, water, stuff.
  • Wiring loom is better than 240Z.
  • Without the horrible bumpers, almost the same as 240Z.
  • R200 differential.
  • Maybe some other technical improvements.

Now, I know, the 280 was delivered with the horrifying bumpers. I can ditch them. I would pleased to do. Second, to me, the 280Z seems a better platform. Maybe some technical misfits were deleted as a learning of the Ãœrmodel. It has the L28, with a better R200 differential. A 5 speed, which is also good. Rear sway bar, if I'm correct, is standard fitted on a 280Z.

Only point is... Those ugly parking lights, in the front grille. Can it be changed to a 240Z look? With the parking lights in the bumper? Everyone knows what I mean I guess.

Or the rear lights.. Can I fit in a 240Z tailpanel, to fit 240Z lights?

There are 4 points, in which a 280 irritates me:

  • Rear lights
  • Louvres in the hood.
  • Parking lights in the grille.
  • Side linings, with the chrome bar, and under the door.

I hope to hear from you guys, some input!

Jacco

Jacco,

The cars have so many interchangeable parts that many of the advantages of the latter 280Zs can be easily transferred to a 240Z. My 240Z has a 5-speed (not sure from what), electronic ignition from a 280ZX, and the Iron Cross wheels, also from a ZX, I believe. Oh, and I installed a 60 amp alternator, a ZX model, I believe, following one of the numerous explanations on changing from an external to an internally regulated alternator found on the web. The differential also swaps easily. As does the larger engine. OTOH, to get rid of the louvers in the 280z hood, find a hood without them -- 240z, 260z, they will fit. The parking lights -- that I think would be very difficult, if only because the very front of the Z probably underwent the most changes of any section of the car due to the introduction of U.S. Federal bumper standards (other than emission control). Over the production run of 240 -- 280Z the standards went from none, to 2.5 mph (with exemptions) to 5.0 mph, to 5.0 mph at a specified height and, I believe, a 2.5 mph side impact test as well.

To answer your question, you need to figure out what you want to do with the Z. You obviously are unafraid of working on cars, so are you looking for a near primal street beast to feast on the unwary? A nice looking car that someone you are interested in would jump into? Both? Once you have that figured out, check out parts availability. I don't know about the Netherlands, but here in California, mechanical parts are quite easy to find, I picked up a new brake caliper -- from the back room! -- at the local branch of a national auto parts chain. Trim parts, interior parts, and small but impossible to live for long without electrical parts such as turn signal switches, etc. are much more difficult to find and tend to be pricey when you do. I wouldn't make the decision a 240Z/260Z/280Z decision as much as finding the specific vehicle that best fits your answers to the considerations I gave above.

I will make a pitch for carbs. Yes, they are, and even then, were an obsolete technology, but they were one damned mature and well understood obsolete technology. The L-Jetronic injection system is damn near as obsolete, never really matured, and other than by FastWoman, not understood by anyone on the planet.

Chris

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