Fuel Pump Check Valve Alternatives

[mjr45]

rossiz, just a quick question. Just where did you file down the lip to get the retainer out? On mine the lip looks rolled over on the whole circumference.

Mike

[mjr45]

I replaced the check valve with the 539 one and because the fuel line from the Audi was to short had to add an extension, also replaced the O rings in the pump and now pressure stays up for about an hour or so after shut down. Also all my stumbling under load went away, engine rev's to 5500 with no issues. Thanks for all the help.

Mike

[rossiz]

mjr45 - sorry i didn't see your question, been otherwise occupied w/different z issues ;}

i filed the rolled lip all the way around - took off maybe 1/32" of material is all to get down to the retainer. 5 min. job

glad you found a solution that's working for you though!

Geoff

[Captain Obvious]

all my stumbling under load went away, engine rev's to 5500 with no issues.

That's great news! My car is back together as well, but it's not yet been hot enough here to get a handle on what the hot start behavior is like now that I've done the check valve and the pump work. On the road performance is great though, but that was never the issue. I originally started this looking for hot start gremlins.

So what happened with the Audi fuel hose? It wasn't long enough to reach from the check valve to the fuel dampener? Mine was actually longer than I needed and I cut excess off the plain end. And that's even counting the strain relief loop like the original design. Yours wasn't long enough to do that?

[TomoHawk]

Oh Captain, my caption...

Could you summarize the whole thing for us? I mean the parts you used. This is the kind of thing you'd see on the AtlanticZ tech collection.

This ought to be a 'sticky' here or go into the technical section, if we have one. I'm sure there are many that have their own "HSM" for "Homebrew Service Manual."

Edited April 24, 2014 by TomoHawk

[Captain Obvious]

I used check valve Bosch part number 1 587 010 539 and a flare fitting fuel hose from an Audi A4 or A6.

Sorry, but I didn't take note of exactly which Audi the hose was from because it looked like they used the same hose. They were all over the place at my junkyard, but maybe that was just me. Thinking you couldn't possibly go wrong, I didn't keep great notes there. Next time I'm at the junkyard, I'll make sure I note some models and years that have suitable hoses.

I've got the pump back on the car and also took the opportunity to install a G3 between the tank and the pump. My original pump inlet filter screen was gone and I didn't want to send any junk into my newly installed check valve. Here's my install:

[TomoHawk]

Thanks. I thought the fuel hose would have a readable part number on it. What's a G3, the paper filter in the cheap transparent plastic can?

BTW- when I cruise through the JY, I take a small notebook, and write the vehicle's model & row # before I even start digging though the vehicle. Before taking a part off, I record some details about the part, in case the number is rubbed off or something is damaged. I will even record the location of a vehicle if I think it might have something I might want later, and a note about what was interesting about it (like an Audi A6 with fuel hoses that have threaded flare fittings.)

We need to get a comprehensive compatibility database going! Not just specific items to replace factory parts. I'm sure there's enough in people's note to get a good start on one already.

Edited April 25, 2014 by TomoHawk

[Captain Obvious]

Yes, the G3 (Fram P/N G3) is the plastic low pressure filter on the suction side of the fuel pump. Cheap and ubiquitous. I wanted something transparent so I could monitor for crud coming out of the tank. I've not had a problem that I know of, but I figured I was in that deep, I might as well do it at that same time.

[EuroDat]

I tried to order one here at a local Fram dealer and he couldn't order it, only the G2 (5/16") version. I couldn't find it on Fram's European website either. Looks like its only available in the US and on ebay.

I can order it there, but they want $32 for shipping and I have to pay 21%tax on all that:( Looks like I will be looking for an alternative or maybe two G2 it parrallel.

[Captain Obvious]

Wow... Would have never imagined it would be difficult to get a Fram G3. Anywhere!

How about a Purolator F20118? Web research indicates it's their cross for the Fram G3

Part Detail Popup

And as for two G2's in parallel... I believe the internals for all of the similar sized and shaped filters (G2, G3, G12) are all the same. So if you're doing two of them in parallel for throughput, I doubt it's necessary.

Edited April 26, 2014 by Captain Obvious

[EuroDat]

I think Ill try the G2. The G3 has been replaced by the G12-1 in 24 feb 2012, but it has a 6mm outlet where the G2 has 8mm.

FRAM

I need to do something because my inlet filter is shot and I dont want to damage the pump with gunk from the tank. If the internals are the same it should work the same.

[mjr45]

Captain, sorry for the late reply,I got involved with a furniture finishing project(wife's idea) but the car ran great for 1 day and back to stumbling under load, but that's another story. The Audi fuel line(don't remember which Audi) was to short to reach the damper on the 75 without a major kink in the line, so I just added a 5/16" double barb and about 5" of fuel line to make a loop with no kinks to the damper. The Audi fuel line came from the engine bay if that helps for future reference. Worked out well with no leaks under pressure and pressure stays up for longer than before I did the job. Also just as an FYI, haven't had any hot start issues, but its not been above 70° up here.

Edited April 26, 2014 by mjr45