Pencil mark around the hood hinges before you remove it. Helps get it even on both sides when you re-install it.[ATTACH=CONFIG]70472[/ATTACH]

siteunseen, wouldn't it be easier to just unbolt the hood from the hinges, two bolts on each side? Then, no hinge adjustment required.

siteunseen, wouldn't it be easier to just unbolt the hood from the hinges, two bolts on each side? Then, no hinge adjustment required.

That's why I used the word "it", not "them". Sorry for not be more specific.

Edited March 28, 201411 yr by siteunseen

Like siteunseen said, you need to mark the hinges because the hood has lots of adjustment room at those bolts.

I have removed my hood so many times that I have the system down pat to remove it alone without damaging the paint. I pull the two bolts on one side and slide a small phillips screwdriver through one of the holes with the handle on the radiator side of the hole. I then go around the other side and pull the other two bolts most of the way out while holding the hood still. I still have a strong hold on the hood while I stand directly in front of the car and finish removing the two bolts. At that point, I can slide the hood sideways off the screwdriver blade and remove the hood from the car. Be sure to have a safe place ready to stand it with towels or foam rubber padding to keep the paint safe. Installation is the opposite of removal.

My apologies, you are quite right. Its been a long time since I took the hood off, and there are adjustment slots on the hood mounting brackets

I had forgotten about.

My technique for hood removal as I remember is:

1. Cover engine bay and fenders with some heavy duty padding.

2. Loosen all four bolts holding hood onto hinges.

3. Remove the forward two bolts while holding the hood open.

4. Then, allow hood to rotate on the aft two bolts and rest hood on padding

5. Remove aft two bolts, then lift hood and place on pads for storage.

This way it is a one-man-job.

Dan

Dan

Like siteunseen said, you need to mark the hinges because the hood has lots of adjustment room at those bolts.

I have removed my hood so many times that I have the system down pat to remove it alone without damaging the paint. I pull the two bolts on one side and slide a small phillips screwdriver through one of the holes with the handle on the radiator side of the hole. I then go around the other side and pull the other two bolts most of the way out while holding the hood still. I still have a strong hold on the hood while I stand directly in front of the car and finish removing the two bolts. At that point, I can slide the hood sideways off the screwdriver blade and remove the hood from the car. Be sure to have a safe place ready to stand it with towels or foam rubber padding to keep the paint safe. Installation is the opposite of removal.

Thanks for all the hood tips! We are trying to setup a live cam but having trouble with port forwarding on this router maybe doing it wrong. Will post a link here If we can get it up today. check back later

Im sure when Blue gets here today he can set it up for us. So far last night, just disconnected a few things like wires, fuel hoses,alternator, linkage and removed su's. Have rusted bolts sitting in evaporust.

Today we will be draining tranny and engine oil, removing exhaust that is super rusted looking,removing radiator then possibly taking out engine if all goes well.

Looking good. Your hoist boom will be nice and long. No need to remove the bumper with that hoist.

I want to thank Blue for the help today. He was very helpful. We didn't have any issues whatsoever thanks to him. We also took out the gas tank. It was a great day even though it rained like crazy with tornado warnings.

Thanks for all the great tips posted here too.

See, now you are an expert and you can give others advice. Good job guys.

It was nice to meet Joe and Matt. They are very hospitable and keen Z guys. It was a lot of fun and I look forward to seeing the Z when it is restored.

Joe forgot to mention a few other things besides the Tornado warning. We tried to rescue Mothra but we were too late. We also witnessed the upside down superman flying cat and Cropella the rescue girl.

That 70 has a great body. The rust repairs are all easy to address. It will restore nicely.

One thing I forgot (but did yesterday) and it would be good to add to this thread [The shakedown test]:

When the chains are on the motor and the crane has just taken the load, lift the motor ~ 1cm up off the engine mount then shake the hell out of the motor and crane. If anything will let go, it would be best to happen with only 1cm to drop.

Also, remove the centre transmission to cross member bolt and loosen the two side bolts. Before removing the two side bolts, do the shakedown test, make sure the load is biased forward (so the transmission does not drop) then remove the further then near bolt.

NOTE: The leveller has a lot of slop and when the centre of gravity moves from one side to the other, the leveller actually snaps quickly as the CG moves through center. Watch out for this as it can be a surprise.

Also,as part of the preparation, have the castors on the crane turned with no load so that the crane can be pulled out w/o the wheels binding.

The above lift was done with an 8' ceiling and ~ 5' of clearance in front of the car. Use short chains and the crane fully extended.

I've got that same leveler and it scared the crap out of me when it started snapping like that. I ground the paint off the bottom edge and greased that roller that contacts that same edge. Good to hear all went well. No blue fingernails I hope.

Just black with dirt...the way they should be.