fuel delivery not constant

[mattszcar]

Ok cool thank you. I am ending up having to go to the field for the next couple of days so I wont be able to tackle anything until thursday. But I convinced my boss to let me take 2 leave days so i can take my car to the auto craft center on post here. Soooo Im going to have 3, 8 hour days to whip this cars butt ..

[mattszcar]

I just want to say thank you again for the ideas and suggestions.. I can't wait till thursday when I have some solid 8 hour periods to tackle each trouble shooting idea.. I so want to drive this car!!!!

[mattszcar]

I did it I did it I did it!! Bang my head against the wall.. I drained the tank and the previous owner sure enough cleaned the gas tank out. However.. switched the outgoing line for the returning line.. AAAAARRRRRGGGGG .. Heat wasn't working connected up the disconnected vacuum lines... I have heat!! Replacing my suspension bushings tomarrow.. Bring it !! Thank you Thank you again Fast Woman and Zed Head. I wouldn't have started over if it wasn't for you too pushing me to start from the begging..I love this car so much. I know Im old too but when I was a kid my dads best friend had one of these and i love it to this day.. Selling my 97 suburban Monday. My z is my daily driver.. Time Now..

[mattszcar]

Ok now all of a sudden i have no spark at #2 and #3 cylinder.. any suggestions. Im about to go check my coil with a multimeter. Wires plugs cap rotor all new. took a plug from one of the cyliders that fires and put it in the one that didn't still no spark so i know the plug is good.

[Mark Maras]

Check the inside of the dizzy cap boots & the spark plug boots to see if the connectors have pulled back. If this is a consistant no fire in two cyls. it is isolated to the wires, cap, rotor or plugs all of which are new. Swap #1 & #2 plug wires & see if the miss changes to #1. This problem is usually a poor elec. connection, especially when you have new components.

[mattszcar]

ok i had a crappy connection at my coil the wire just didn't fit snug.. Still though. I run the engine and its really rough. It'll rev fine but put it in drive and nada.. So back to the plugs. Still now when i take off 2 and 3 I hold them close to the plug and i can hear it tic tic tic.. but pull it off and no change in the way the engine runs.. I pull off 1 4 5 or 6 and the engine almost stalls out.. 2 and 3 come off nothing happens at all. I swapped 1 for 2 plug and 1 for 2 wire. still no change 1 stilll makes the engine stall and 2 disconnected does nothing.. I tested all the wires and coil wire for continuity. good to go. It doesnt matter where i adjust the timing. other than the engine running faster or slower. theres just no power when you put it in drive. Which stands to reason if 2 and 3 arent firing off its only running on 4 cylinders

[mattszcar]

going out to double check my air gap not sure if that could do anything but ill check.. it says 0.2 to 0.4 mm in the fsm. My timing is good a t 10 well my car likes about 12 13 btdc better but its within a few degress non the less

[Zed Head]

Still now when i take off 2 and 3 I hold them close to the plug and i can hear it tic tic tic.. but pull it off and no change in the way the engine runs.. I pull off 1 4 5 or 6 and the engine almost stalls out.. 2 and 3 come off nothing happens at all. I swapped 1 for 2 plug and 1 for 2 wire. still no change

Sounds like the injectors aren't opening. Try swapping injector plugs from a cylinder that works to one that doesn't. It's batch fire so it doesn't matter which is where. Also, try the long screwdriver stethosocope trick to hear the difference between an injector that's opening and one that's not.

[Mark Maras]

The tic tic sounds lindicate the plugs are firing. I'd pull #2 or 3 plug & ground it to actually see what, if anything, is going on. Compression? Recheck the valve adj. & compression to eliminate that possibility. That leaves FI. I'm an SU guy but basic injector function must be easy an easy test. I'd guess disconnecting the injectors one at a time.

[mattszcar]

ok rgr that. going out to check for injector tic . tried it earlier just to verify they all are clicking but i did notice a distinct difference in some. but I wasnt at the 2 and 3 problem yet so i need to recheck to see if its those to. also i cleaned the 2 and 3 spark plug back to new condition to see if theres any fuel on them or if there dry.

[mattszcar]

ok number 2 is definately not clicking.. 1 is loud and proud so unhook the plug put it on 2 and nothin back to 1 loud clicks.. back to 2 nothin.. 3 is clickin but not like 1 is. and again disconnect 1456. all want to stall the engine.. so its got to be the injectors? at least 2 for sure there just nothing at all

[Zed Head]

I've messed with a few old stuck injectors and found that a rap with a light weight wrench or a screwdriver blade will break them free sometimes. Nothing to lose. Try to hit the solid metal base if you make an attempt.

If you get to the point where you're considering replacing them, you might also jump the two pins at the injector with a full 12 volts. A quick jolt or two won't burn anything up but the higher current flow might create a stronger magnetic field to pop things free (although I'm not sure how much stronger). Don't short your wires, there's not much room in there. Connect the wires at the injector and make sure they're clear then tap the other end to the battery.

Edit - apparently the magnetic field strength is proportional to current so a 12.6 volt jolt might have an affect.

Edit 2 - just a note on why they might get stuck. It's a tight fit inside and the gasoline flows past the metal core of the solenoid plug and the pintle pin which seats in the pintle orifice. Dried or old fuel leaves gooey varnish behind, gluing things together. If you get it free, let it run for while and rev it up to get clean gas through to clean things up.

Edited April 12, 2014 by Zed Head