Turns out its a 71..

[CEgg11]

So I am in process of re-habbing a 240 that was on its way to being a drag strip car (!). I was just plodding along, taking the sellers word that it was a 72, but upon taking the dash out for the super-cool repair process, I noticed the VIN - starts with a 3. (didn't write it down, and I am at work).

So, should I think more towards resto, rather than rodding?

Would a 71 bring more $$ than a 72, if both were properly restored?

[CEgg11]

And the reason I put this in the interior section is that I have to find a 71 console. Its a 71 dash (no cig lighter, and a toggle hazard switch)

[SteveJ]

Would a 71 lose less $$ than a 72, if both were properly restored?

There. I fixed it for you.

I think the money depends upon the customer. I've seen plenty of posts that say the 72 is preferred because of the maturity of the platform. I think it's more of personal preference than any strong market forces. Of course, Carl Beck might have an informed opinion on this (as opposed to my relatively uniformed opinion).

What is the date on the door plate? Is it still around?

[EhlersRS]

Curtis,

As Steve pointed out, the '72 is considered the "best of the breed" for the 240Z's because of the mechanical improvements over the earlier models. When I was saving to buy a Z I was hoping to purchase a '72, but I ended up with an early '71 instead. Judging from the first digit of your VIN, your car was probably manufactured in the summer of '71 and sold/titled as a '72. From what I've read, the '71 models aren't worth more money than the '72, but rather are based on the condition of the car. Hopefully that helps your decision.

Robert S.

[CEgg11]

Manufacture date is 6/71, which puts it right in the middle of Series 1 and 2. The dash is definitely Series 1, no cig lighter, and hazard switch is a toggle switch on the right side. I was just thinking about consoles, b/c this one is absent one at all. I have a 72 console, but I also want a power outlet somewhere there, so I was thinking of finding a 71 console.

Regarding the values, I thought that was true about the 72 as well, with the "bugs" having been figured out, and before the flat top carbs of the 73. I am ignorant regarding the values of particular VIN ranges, though, so I thought I'd ask you guys. Thanks for all the help! I think I'll just build it as I was going to all along, and when asked what year it is, I'll just tell them the truth. I have no idea.

[djwarner]

Your car is definitely a Series II car with that MFG Date. A Series I has vents on the hatch and "240Z" on the badges on the sail not a simple "Z". After 40+ years of maintenance, it would be a surprise if you didn't have some mixed generation parts installed.

Early in the Series II production, some left over Series I parts were used, but I'm sure that they were all used up by June 71.

Edited April 9, 2014 by djwarner

[CEgg11]

I'll put the VIN up tonight - According to my reading of Carl Beck, there is a range of cars that can be properly called "Series 1" without all of the badging, vents, etc. (If I read it correctly)

But whatever it is, that is what it is. My plans for an L28/E31 close ratio 5 spd continue. I may give a nod to the original color though...lime green.

[CEgg11]

I have a 72 that I had deemed to be a parts car, but after seeing all the rust in my "rust free" project car, I might just do them both. Any vestiges of being a 71 or 72 are gone. The car is just a shell anyway. But, 71 consoles are more expensive than 72s, thats for sure.

[CEgg11]

38656 is VIN