Building A L28 (Na)

[TheCrazySwede]

On July 7, 2016 at 8:23 AM, EuroDat said:

Nice sound. You need a set of bumpers/brackets:D

 

Thanks! 

I'm replacing the big 5mph bumpers with the slimmer ones. Had the whole thing off when I was dropping the g-tank for cleaning

[TheCrazySwede]

[Patcon]

That looks good!

[siteunseen]

Are going with the cable throttle pull later on?  

[TheCrazySwede]

On July 20, 2016 at 0:17 PM, siteunseen said:

Are going with the cable throttle pull later on?  

Are you talking about the throttle return spring I have? That was only temporary - it's not there anymore

[Zed Head]

Actually, in the picture, the stock linkage does look a bit contorted, from the firewall to the carbs.  Does it move freely like that?

[TheCrazySwede]

On July 22, 2016 at 3:38 PM, Zed Head said:

Actually, in the picture, the stock linkage does look a bit contorted, from the firewall to the carbs.  Does it move freely like that?

Moves just fine. Haven't had any issues with it.

I got the carbs air synced (5kg/h), the floats set, the linkage synced and all the right jets (in theory) - now I need to adjust the idle mixture and accelerator pumps, if needed.

Zedyone recommended an AFR kit that I recently got to help with mixture tuning, but I'm having some trouble with electronics at the moment.

My voltage drops (dives) and shorts all accessories the moment I use any accessories, including head lights. Fan, headlights, windshield wipers, etc. All of these short out all the electrics. The only thing that doesn't are the turn signals and my electronic fuel pump that's hooked up to the starter. One of my brake lights also caused the short (volt drop every time I braked) but I disconnected it and now that doesn't happen, but the previous issue remains. 

Since I air synced the carbs, they've began to stutter and hesitate upon acceleration, so I definitely need to figure that out, but I would like to solve the electrical side of things, too.

Got a lot on my hands right now!

Edited July 27, 2016 by TheCrazySwede

[TheCrazySwede]

So been doing some more tinkering.

 

To try and attempt diagnosing my electrical issues, I've reverted most of the electrics to stock:

 

• New Externally regulated alternator
• New voltage regulator
• New battery cables (x2)
• New OEM Fusible links

With key set to "ON" -

• Alternator reads 12.20v
• Fusible Links read 12.20v
• Battery reads 12.23v

As soon as I turn on my headlights, the volt gauge in the car drops to 0. Running lights, parking lights and dome light won't come on. Same effect occurs if I try to turn on the fan, use wipers or hazard lights. Headlights come on and turn signals work. One of the brake lights also causes the "short" issue, but with that particular light disconnected the issue no longer occurs. Swapping bulbs with one that does work still causes same issue in that particular light.

Still,

• Alternator reads 12.20v
• Fusible Links read 12.20v
• Battery reads 12.23v

I checked the ground wire from negative battery - good. I checked my fusebox - good. When I first made the swap, the alternator was pushing out 17v before I swapped it. It may have fried something along the way, but I don't know what. At this point, is there anywhere in particular I should be looking?

Edited August 27, 2016 by TheCrazySwede

[TheCrazySwede]

Quick update:

Bought a new harness and I'm going to strip the car down and re-do all the wiring. Figure I'm going to want to do that anyway. Hoping I find something along the way.

Here's the sound of the car with the carbs better tuned (Getting a hang of it!)

 

 

[esmit208]

Are those 45mm's or 47mm's I have a set of 47 in the closet yet to be installed. Let me know what you think of them.

Edited May 8, 2017 by esmit208
Add picture

[TheCrazySwede]

Awesome! Did you paint those yourself? I have 45's

[Zedyone_kenobi]

You are making me want to try 45 DCOEs..

 

Curse you!