I had a similar problem on my 72.

Was a dirty distributor to coil connection. I had previously squirted WD40 around, and over time it had collected grime on the connections.

I'm experiencing the same exact issues with stalling and braking. Just thought i'd chime in to offer my help as i troubleshoot and figure it out.

On mine, there are some plugs in the intake and the car is pretty modded up so it could be anything.

My first assumption was fuel, the electric pump died and i replaced it as well as the filter and the filter before the mechanical pump. I'm going to drain the tank and go from there.

The vacuum leak idea is good though, i'll have to check that out but like you said, mine idles really well so i don't think that's the culprit.

I'll have to see how my brake booster responds to what you did to yours as well.

Update - blew out the lines w/compressed air, drained and filled the tank, replaced the brand new fuel filter with another brand new fuel filter... drove 3 miles, stalled again. Waited 10 minutes, drove 1.5 miles, stalled. Waited 10 minutes, drove 1.5 miles, baaaaarely got it into my driveway and it stalled again.

I'm thinking I have about 20 different issues to tackle, not the least of which are vac leaks, exhaust leaks, etc. Realized these things have power brakes yet I have to apply about 80lbs of force on the pedal in order to initiate braking. Thought it was like my Demon and '66 Mustang w/o power assist brakes. Guess not. Applied shop vac to master vac, magically brakes became easier to press (engine off). Started engine and put my thumb in the line to the master vac, it barely had any suction at idle at all. All signs are pointing to a massive vac leak... which is weird because it idles rock solid at 500-600rpm when warm. I must have missed something when I pulled the air injection equipment.

I'll update this thread when I get this thing running properly.

Mine ideled great in the garage but when I got away from home, too close to call a wrecker, It would quit. I could change out the filter up front and blow back through the supply line and it would get me home. It is a '72 tank that was crusted with crap. I took the sending unit out 1st, get your tank below half full, and it was rusted pretty bad. So I put a camera in the hole and barely could see rust in the picture. Dropped the tank and couldn't beleive what was there. You could stick a magnetic parts picker upper in there and probably get some thing but most of the 12 ounces in mine wouldn't stick to the magnet, CRUD.

Edited July 29, 201410 yr by siteunseen

Wow, that's nuts. I just got a usb boreoscope so i'll be having some fun with that. i'm about to drain the tank and go from there but i think it's still almost full so we'll see. Probably wont complete it today.

Did you re-seal the tank, get a shop to do it or just scrap the tank and get a new one? I'm not sure what will be the best rout for me if i do find a bunch of crap in mine.

most of the 12 ounces in mine wouldn't stick to the magnet, CRUD.

Yummy!! That's a great pic!

Did you re-seal the tank, get a shop to do it or just scrap the tank and get a new one? I'm not sure what will be the best rout for me if i do find a bunch of crap in mine.

I dropped mine and cleaned it then coated with Red Kote, replaced all the hoses to the evap tank too. It was a jobbie job!

Here's the thread, half is the tank work the other half is about our shoes, we have fun on here.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/funnybone/52471-developing-story.html

@siteunseen & SheWantsTheZ, I wanted to update / close out this thread with the conclusion:

Bit the bullet, drained & dropped the tank and while not quite as bad as yours, it was by far the absolute worst I've ever seen on a running car. Anyways, long story short, sent the tank out to be cleaned and re-sealed. Put it back in a few weeks ago, replaced both of the vent lines while I was at it and what a difference! I've driven over 200 miles so far and no stalling, no high idle, nothing. Runs like a top.

So, bottom line, if repeated blow-outs of the fuel lines and in-line filter changes don't do it for you, bite the bullet, drop the tank and clean it out.

Many thanks to everyone here for making that suggestion.

I'm going to revive this topic 3 years later lol....

So, thanks to some of the forum's heavy hitters, I was able to get my 240 awake and out of the garage. I'm now having the exact same problem. 

Only difference is, I'm running a 2 gallon gas can as my fuel source for the time being until I can get the tank dropped and cleaned. I've replace all of the rubber lines up front, adjusted the bowls, etc. I was thinking it could be due to a vacuum leak of some sort. Any ideas?

Have you checked your fuel filter.


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 You don't mention how well it is running with the temporary fuel source.

It's running great actually. I adjusted the floats (again) and it hasn't stalled out yet, I think the needles were closing to early. I'm going to keep toying with the carbs and see, in the mean time I'll drop the tank

  Some Z owners have found lbs. of rust in them. Soak the sender in C.L.R. (tip from Wheee) if it's crusty.