Last Chance To Stop Me: Going Coilovers?

[Zed Head]

IYou can really put the car down, but for the street, it's probably more bling than bang for the buck....I can't feel a whole lot of difference between the GC's and the Eibach/Tokicos. IMO, but it sure looks good.

Just want to make sure you didn't overlook this comment. You seem to be doing it for the bling, not to make a better car.

Not to be negative, but you did start the thread seeking opinions.

[oranngetang]

Thanks, I have read all of the posts.

Just to reiterate, Tokicos no longer exist, and even if they did the rims and tires I have will probably not clear the stock spring perches, hence my questions regarding a 2.5" coilover setup. The alternative is Koni/Eibach, which will have the same issue, a softer ride and questionable ride height without much if any camber adjustment.

Not to be negative, but I did mention this in the first post if not more than once already. The Tokico vs GC performance being relatively the same doesn't negate the fact that my wheels possibly wont fit and the ride height might be incorrect for my application, unless I'm mistaken?!

Is anyone running a 15x9-0 with 225s under stock fenders with factory spring perches? It seems lots of people SAY THEY ARE until they mention they're running 2.5" springs on modified struts. Or they'll post a build thread showing the exact rim and tire specs ( or even 245 tires ) and that they fit without rolling, or spacers, just to rub it in everyones faces who bought 205s and 8" wheels, but never posted their suspension mods to say how they fit...

I now have wheels I believe will not clear the stock perches because of such information, so a smaller OD spring and perch would be required, I think... Also, that 9" wheel will be close to the fender lip so a slight camber adjustment might be all that is needed to sneak it in. If not, I can adjust ride height at will to ensure I'm not cutting the sidewalls of my tires with sheet metal.

I'm not sure how a coilover behind a crammed wheel wheel is bling, since nobody will EVER see them. I'm looking at 2.5" coilovers, specifically GC because they offer a pre-sectioned coilover package and it seems to be the only option to actually fit my wheels. Diseazd didnt mention his tire and wheel size under those Tokicos, so maybe he's running a 16x8 RB wheel with 205s? I'm wearing 215s right now on factory 14" slotted mags, 225s should be doable, but the interwebs are saying not a chance without 2.5" perches or spacers and rolling or flares.

My concern isn't price, but the irreversible changes I'll be making to the all 4 strut towers on a somewhat rare and low numbered car...

That said, since the GC plates are also bolt in, at least I wont need to weld on ****ty laminated sheet metal to get them into position.

The options I'm kind of looking for insight on might be bolt in (using factory mounts) coilovers with 2.5" springs that would not alter the car body, or something else I'm not familiar with. I see some images floating around of OE top hats on coilovers. I don't know how they're setting camber with those kits, or how they're sectioning the top halves to work with the smaller coils, but that could be an option. At this time, OE sized springs are not for the reasons I mentioned. Another option was MSA's kit, but due to ****ty finish and reviews vs GC, and the pain I've endured trying to source a set suspension through them, I'm opting out.

Again, I could be mistaken, but it seems legit!

I looked at the STAGG stuff, but really it looks like it's probably re-branded OEM KYB stuff with shorter springs. They don't publish spring or damper rates, and their website looks like crap, plus its the same problems as above with them.

If I'm dropping dough for a Rebello engine with bored out ztherapy carbs, and the clutch and tranni to pair it to, I'm not installing a $400 dollar suspension kit That would be wrong in so many ways.

My big sin might be the $400 dollar clutch and flywheel kits though... Is a $600 clutch really necessary? I mean these engines make about 300HP at the flywheel TOPS.

Edited April 23, 2014 by oranngetang

[Zed Head]

I get involved in some threads just for the logic challenge. Like solving a puzzle. You did ask for advice, and I tend to be very literal. The rationale for the GC kit, supposedly, is to get the 225 width tires under the fenders. That's a lot of time and money spent just to fit a wide tire. You might be able to have the fender lips rolled for a few dollars, get some spacers or a different offset rim, and keep everything stock. If that was a possibility, would you do it, or would there be some other reason to get the GC kit? I'm betting that you'll find another reason to get the GC kit. Matching expenditures on various car areas makes no sense at all. I spent a lot on the engine so I must spend a lot on the suspension? Not logical.

If you're just having fun modifying the car, then you'll get a lot more love and advice over on Hybridz. There's nothing wrong with doing it, just come out and say that's what you want to do.

I'll bow out now. It's your money and your car.

[Diseazd]

I never could get the "pretty girls" until I got my GC stuts and Willwoods. Now I have to beat 'em off with a stock sway bar! If you want tires that fit Eibach and Konis, go with 205 55 16's, if you like the big tires, go with the coilovers and camber plates.....I had to really crank in the negative camber to tuck in the 225 50 16's when the car was lowered. It looks awesome, but handles on the road, not much better than the Eibachs/Tokicos. Zed Head is trying to save you money.....you want $$$$$ or a cool lowered car and hot chicks? Your wife can probably answer the question for you! :tapemouth

[Zed Head]

There's very little rational reason to own these old cars, no matter how you look at it. I just accept the fact that I'm spending time and money on something I don't need, because I enjoy it.

Here's another option for adjustable coilovers. Don't know the timing, sometimes these things never end up actually happening.

***** BC Racing coilovers for S30 ( Whats the interest? ) ***** - Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis - HybridZ

[oranngetang]

Zed Head, I appreciate the input, but it seems you're trying to sell me on OE struts when I've made it very clear that they are not really option at this point. True, they handle similar. True, they're less money. Ture, they won't work. What I was looking for is an alternative to using camber plates with coilovers. In hindsight, I should have wrote only that; " Guys, I don't want to run camber plates, but need a smaller ID spring to clear my wheels, what are my options? "

The fact is I have already have paid for 225 tires and 15x9 rims based on advice from other forums/threads, so unless I try to sell them to re-coupe some of my costs and buy rims and tires all over again, the price difference between OEM style struts and springs and coilovers is negligible. I'm looking at $1600 for eibach/koni not knowing if they'll work or if the car will sit at an acceptable height (the front end is also about 150lbs lighter than stock) OR $2500 for coil-overs that will 100% work and let me run the width and profile I already own, while gaining camber and height adjustment. BONUS! They cost more, but for a lot of good reasons.

Buying spacers and running longer studs will solve a strut perch issue, yes! However, this is just going to push the rim past the fender, so rolling the fenders MAY work, but probably won't do enough and look ridiculous.

I would run OE style struts and springs if I could, maybe even the STAGG stuff, but I'm certainly not going to drop $700 on STAGG not knowing where the car will sit or if I can even mount my rims, with no camber adjustment and no review on how they perform, especially after reading that KYB GR-2s will **** the bed with lowering springs installed rather quickly. I don't expect STAGG is much more suited to it, but who's even run them to say so? Consensus on GC? They're ****ing amazing.

I see you're about low budget / high value, that's why I chose make this Z fun instead of buying an E60 M5 for the summer. It's also why I'm sticking with SU carbs and a 3.0L instead of something larger, or with triple 40mm carbs or a turbo/FI setup for 400HP. That 3.0L seems to be about the most power for the money that I could find. Maybe I could have scoured the internet for a used L28, an LD28 crank, some forged pistons, cam, springs, etc, plus a head, but all in, I'm only spending a little more for a dyno-tuned, proven engine that is turn key. I work a LOT, my free-time is sparse and very valuable to me. While I'll be rebuilding the L24 eventually, the 3.5 months or so a year this car is able to go outside is precious, so I'd rather just order parts and builds that I know will work for a little extra money and enjoy the fruits of someone elses labor. On the same note, I need to disagree with the spending money here and not there statement... Would you put 300HP in your Z and run all season tires and factory brake pads, or would you upgrade that stuff? It's not only the responsible thing to do, but it would be a waste not to do it, IMO. I also look at a clutch and suspension as equally important things to replace when adding power, if the option that will work is expensive, that's something I need to deal with.

A lot of guys on this thread are running lowering springs with the trade-off of not getting the ride height, tire width or adjustments they'd prefer to have, not to mention limiting overall suspension travel by doing it. I was going to do the same, except I have this rim and tire pairing that isn't going to cooperate with the larger diameter springs, unless like you said, I run spacers, which just introduces another fitment problem

I can spend $10,000 and have my car sit funny with wheels sticking out past the fenders OR, I can spend $11000 and have everything fit with no headaches, it seems logical to me. Cutting the towers sucks, that what I'm trying to avoid. OE top hat, cool. How? I have no idea. Slotting the OE top hat location is the same as cutting them out to me. So, sounds like ground control.

Diseazd, no wife or girlfriend even. You guys would maybe love the story of how my wife to be of 13 years walked away in Hawaii the day before our wedding! Yeah, I am almost 30 and finally have the ability to spend money on myself, so bring on the fun cars and sexy stance. I'm totally free to spend some disposable income on my Z and love every moment of it. I'm not sure this car is going to attract any ladies, especially with it's exhaust smells and lack of A/C, but I know I'll be enjoying every moment of it.

Anyway, again thanks guys. Sounds like I was right about my options, and ground control seems like the logical kit as far as 2.5" coils go. I placed my order earlier, just got punched in the gut with a strut spring, I guess I'm not QUITE heavy enough to keep that SOB in place

New method, launch the *****s at the floor into a pail! I don't have a compressor.

Any advice on removing the strut inserts? I can't turn that ring!

Write a novel much?

[oranngetang]

Posted while I was typing that.

I would totally do that BC kit, but my GC order is now placed. Seems to be MUCH less expensive and even looks nicer. Oh well...

Timing is a good point. There are 30 some people in front of me and I need these yesterday.

Judging by the photos... It would be close to fitting!

Edited April 23, 2014 by oranngetang

[Diseazd]

You know what you want.....go for it! Hope this thread on my experience helps. Good Luck!

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/suspension-steering-s30/35036-ground-control-coilovers.html

[oranngetang]

Thanks Diseazd, I'll give that a read.

So about removing those rear LCA spindles... FML! I've got to be missing something. The brake drums literally slid off into my finger tips as did everything else. Add these things look brand new, yet won't budge. 6 lb sledge with the nut on the end and no movement. YES! I removed the flat sided bolt that retains them... I'm 1.5 hours in and have everything aparts except for these spindles, and the inserts are stuck...

[gnosez]

I'm running 16X9s with 245s at all corners. Fronts are 2.5 neg and fit just fine. I rolled the rears out to form a very small flare and 2 deg neg makes them tuck up okay. The car sits under 6 inches at the rocker. Springs are 275 front and 250 rear.

As to the spindle pin, I saw-all the RCA from the strut and then have what remains pressed out.

[Travel'n Man]

Spindle pins are tough - I tackled this over the winter. Hacksaw and seperate. Take the parts to your local fabrication shop and have them press out. I bought a Hybrid spindle pin puller and striped it out in a matter of moments...........there went $60 + shipping

[gnosez]

I have the NLA PDK front strut tower brace and a modified SCCA roll bar as a back brace.

These are older pics before the gnose headlight covers were added and the 3.0 got swapped out for a 3.2L making 358@crank.