Last Chance To Stop Me: Going Coilovers?

[oranngetang]

Ha! No kidding they're tough! Most annoying part is when they came out they looked new, except the mushroomed ends.

So the sledge didn't even move them, just ****ed the threads even with the nuts on. What did work, was an air hammer with a 3/8" punch welded to the end of a cut off chisel bit. Once it bottomed out I pushed a drill bit in and blasted last blast 2" out.

I'll be placing an order for some too

Gnosez, you running a 0 offset also? I asked GC to choose the spring rate for me based on what I told them I'm doing with the car. I think they're going 250 all around, if not 225/250. Too soft? I was leaning towards the 250-275 mark, but I've been told I'm crazy

Our roads are crap up here though, so maybe a little bit of give is good.

[oranngetang]

Nice pics. What are you running for a fuel pump?

[TARDIS]

Not sure if this will solve your strut tower cutting problem as these claim they are "bolt in".

Camber Plates For S30 Z-Car - Suspension - Datsun 240z - Datsun

I run Ksport Coilover system on my DD Corolla and I must say the dampening adjustment will give you a lot better ride and customization than just a non-adjustable strut and sleeves to shorten the spring travel. I think Ksport sells a set for the Z for $1200. I have put over 50k miles on my DD driving through pothole and a$$hole capital, Washington DC so I can attest to their reliability. Good luck with your endeavor

[gnosez]

Mallory Comp ($$$). I think 250/225 or 225/200 would be fine. Keeping the wheels in contact with the road is a good thing.

[oranngetang]

Found something worse than the spindle pins to remove :0

27mm stub axle nut? Man... 1/2 impact, torches, release-all, air chisel, zip saw, more air chisel, more heat and impact... Unbelievable! Everything is in the box. I'm beginning to think I should do the cutting and welding myself... I guess I have enough to do with the bushings, rear diff and brakes...

Wilwoods.... you're sooooooo evil for putting that thought in my head. Was laying in bed last night with an all around set in the shopping cart on my phone... Will see if this passes I thinking about a little more engine too... Dave kind of has the billet build floating around in my head now, and why not?! I think my 240z just became more expensive than my sled!

Oh, and 10.6lb flywheel (Jim Wolf copy by the looks of it) and 400HP clutch, mushimoto rad and hoses and some other crap on the bus as of last night. I have Z fever.

I think I'm going to try to retain the stock fuel pump for now and see if it has any issues keeping those bowls full.

Edited April 24, 2014 by oranngetang

[Zed Head]

Did you grind off the peened area of the nut?

Fuel pump? A least you're not trying to hold to the "rational changes to fit the tires" model anymore. Have fun.

[gnosez]

Better fuel pump and if I had to do it all over again I'd use the Z31 rotors up front instead.

[oranngetang]

I just used a sharp chisel and punched back the area on the first one, gave it some heat and it spun right out. The 2nd one though.... Wow. I did end up using a cutting disc to trim the nut down and the same chisel to start prying back the rest of the nuts centre. It eventually came out. Took a good amount of time, heat and percussion! The bearings sure came out nice. My one book said not to even bother trying to punch them out and to use a press... I used a drift from my pickup tool box and gave it two taps, both fell out!

Time for a rockauto order I think.

[oranngetang]

So everything is here and ready to be bolted in except I'm still waiting on spindle pins, bearings, etc from an order that STILL hasn't shipped.... The Wilwood calipers are very light but wow are those rotors the opposite. The factory aluminum drums must weigh less than 1/4 what a rotor does! I don't think the calipers will even be visible behind the Hayashi knock-offs I ordered, but the holes and slots might give an interesting aesthetic. The ground control stuff looks prettier than the brakes and the powder coating is fantastic for the rusted stuff they started with.

Will post pics of the install and the hacking of the towers.

ou

For those running the Wilwood 4 piston calipers, did you gut the rear hard lines, bypass the boxes (checkvalves/prop valves?/no idea) at the drums or tie in the same as the drums were? Will be installing a 15/16" MC and Wilwood prop valve in the bay.

[madkaw]

I guess I missed this thread earlier. My insight will just be fill for the thread now but, I run 17X8.5 +4 offset rotas. I never saw your offset on your wheels.I rub ever so slightly on the rears with 245/45 tires all the way around. I went too big with the rubber, I believe anything smaller will fit in stock fenders WITH fender lip rolling and slotted towers for additional camber.

I tested for clearance by removing the spring and running suspension through it's travel with 235's on the rim and it cleared-then i ordered 245 tires-dumb. So now it rubs with a passenger over big bumps.

I didn't go with coil overs because of cost and I wanted to keep the rubber top hats for road noise avoidance. I spent my money on Wildwoods-no regrets:cool:

I will shortly be trying smaller tires-like 225's - on the to do list.

I think 9" wheel will be super tight and you would need at least + 10 offset if not more to tuck into stock fenders. Then they would fit on the front with stock perches.

I believe tokico's have become availabe again

[oranngetang]

What did you run for rear hard lines to the Wilwoods? Do the little (valves?) on the sub frame need to be bypassed?

[madkaw]

Didn't change any valving. I run SS flex lines that I believe came with my kit