Jump to content
Email-only Log-Ins Coming in December ×

IGNORED

Noise diagnosis, and Mustache bar issues.


caltanian

Recommended Posts

So i have been chasing a noise for a while now in my car.

Along the way, discovered my diff was rather sloppy, opened it up, and found a spider gear spacer just hanging out in the housing. Never fully failed for me, but I'm sure it was a matter of time.

At this point, I started to go nuts, because i could hear a ratchet noise still on accel and lift off.

Put a jack under the diff, and started to lightly load and unload the diff. was able to replicate the noise over and over. Its coming from the mustache bar mount on the drivers side. When the diff shifts back, and up, as it would on accel, it makes the noise, and it can be felt only on that mount. Further inspection shows its actually moving up a little there, like the welds around the mount are cracked and no longer holding properly.

So I'm looking to replace the mustache bar. Wondering if anyone has ever used the Techno Toy Tuning r180 bar. I already have rear control arms from them, and have been hugely impressed. I know that more noise and such would be transmitted, but I already have poly at all bushings so it can't be much different yea?

Inputs and thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you all.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So unless I read this wrong replacing the mustache bar won't help your weak carrier leg or bolt area issue. I have several TTT pieces in my 240 and they are very nice to say the least and I've had no complaints at all even when used at the track.

Fix the weak point first (the leg that holds the rear carrier brace or the bolt that comes down from the interior) and see if the problem is resolved before getting that pretty bar.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

found a spider gear spacer just hanging out in the housing. Never fully failed for me, but I'm sure it was a matter of time.

i could hear a ratchet noise still on accel and lift off.

Put a jack under the diff, and started to lightly load and unload the diff. was able to replicate the noise over and over.

Its coming from the mustache bar mount on the drivers side. When the diff shifts back, and up, as it would on accel, it makes the noise, and it can be felt only on that mount. Further inspection shows its actually moving up a little there, like the welds around the mount are cracked and no longer holding properly.

Did you replace the diff when you found the loose part? I don't know what a "spider gear spacer" is but whatever it is probably came loose because something broke. Or if it just a loose part, thee's probably damage from running that way.

Does the ratchet noise follow the rotation of the shafts, or is it a one time sound that only happens when the diff nose moves up and down? Also, I don't think that you can get much movement at all from the front rubber mount, with no load on the diff. Wheels in the air, nothing should visibly move at all, unless you have the parking brake on. If you can see the diff nose moving, your front mount is probably shot.

You should probably take the diff and mustache bar out, replace the diff, and check the two studs while everything's out. That's what I would do. It seems unlikely that the body of the car would crack around the mustache bar stud.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, the spacer more looks like it was left over, as no serious damage was found, just excessive backlash. The new diff solved that issue, and the clunk that came along with it. More of a shim than anything else. I have solved every issue the car had, shy of the ratchet. Its been a silly long road, but ever so well worth it.

The ratchet noise is directly linked to acceleration and coming to a full stop. Does not show up other than the first moments and the last moments of aforementioned times. Its not in the studs. They are not moving. I can visibly see and feel the mustache bar move along its weld.

I'm getting it looked at soon, but cannot find any other part that would be making this noise. May end up welding the bar back together.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.