Fuel rail questions?

[EuroDat]

Hey Siteunseen, I think the one in the photo is the static type and its the second link you posted. I have seen them over here on a couple of volvo p1800 with D-jetronic systems. One of the guys lives in our street and his won't keep pressure longer than a day. He can't believe mine holds 1.9bar after 6weeks. Guess my check valve and FPR are in good condition.

Your fuel rail looks great, certainly cleaned up the manifold area, even with the zip tyes on the FPR. Tomohawk's looks top with all that bling bling.

One more thing to add to my "to do list"

Chas

[mjr45]

Fastwoman, thanks for the ideas, I didn't look really closely at tomohawk's pic, but you've given me some new insight on how to mount the FPR, guess I'm not real good at thinking "outside the box."

[TomoHawk]

WellAnd speaking of "clean," those hardlines and your FPR look quite fetching! Do they just polish up like that, or are they chromed?

Thanks. They were just like that, in stead of the yellow factory color. You just polish them after every time it rains.

BTW- I plumbed the fuel rail in a similar way to the original one, with the regulator in the middle. I should have connected the regulator to the '7th hole' in the middle, instead of adding the long runs of (polished) stainless tube. I like minimal too- and it would probably even work!

It took a long time working with a professional 'modder' and my own hand-bender to get the supply and return tubes exactly matched.

[rossiz]

@ tomo - not to take this off topic, but how is it you are able to replace the vent line to the top of your valve cover with a filter and not create a vacuum leak? i can notice a difference just opening the oil cap on mine, even got a measurable difference when i replaced the dipstick (old seal was bad).

[Zed Head]

Looks like siteunseen and I followed the same path on the regulators. I went the budget route though and modified one for vacuum level adjustment. Links attached,plus an Amazon option for the one already done. You don't need the cross-drilled hole, the sharp end of the needle does not sit in a seat,it just floats in space.

Edit - forgot to say that if you do your own modification practice drilling a long straight hole on a few cheap bolts first. I practiced and I still came close to messing it up. Although, you can build a new bolt, its purpose is just to move the spring seat up and down.

Edit 2 - I think that Eurodat is right and siteunseen is running the no-vacuum source regulator. So, site, you're running a little rich during part throttle operation. Might have a little gassy exhaust smell? Since it works for you, you might not want to mess with it, but if you're handy with a drill and have a small piece of metal tube and some JBWeld you could add the vacuum port.

Edit 3 - "boost" really just refers to any pressure change from ambient. Above ambient is typically called boost, below is called vacuum. But the diaphragm and spring in the regulator in the regulator don't really care, they just move accordingly.

Dune-Buggy.com - Plumbing the Fuel System

New Bosch 0280160001 Fuel Pressure Regulator Made in Germany | eBay

Or ready-made:

Amazon.com: MSD Ignition 2222 Boost/Fuel Press.Regulatr: Automotive

Edited May 6, 2014 by Zed Head

[Zed Head]

You can really get your head spinning on these modifications...

[TomoHawk]

@ tomo - not to take this off topic, but how is it you are able to replace the vent line to the top of your valve cover with a filter and not create a vacuum leak?

The engine runs the same without the vent hose on or off, or the oil cap off. I think it's because there is no vacuum inside the valve cover? There is usually a little oil dripping out of that little filter- I change it annually, an I constantly clean up the drips. It also explains why the intake manifold has an undesolvable coating of oil inside. Edited May 8, 2014 by TomoHawk

[CG240Z]

As I mentioned earlier, here's a pic of my Pallnet fuel rail I just installed. Very simply design, you could do it yourself if you wanted to. For me it was just easier to pay $150 then try to drill and tap all the holes straight and correctly spaced. Right now I just have the FPR near the firewall, I need to find a permanent place to mount it.