gnosez Posted May 9, 2014 Share #13 Posted May 9, 2014 I was working at MEC and came in from Boston so I flew back and forth every month or so.No problem re cost. We all operate on a budget. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kurbycar32 Posted May 9, 2014 Share #14 Posted May 9, 2014 I used a Zedd floor pan on my drivers side, but didn't need the entire pan, just the front half and my seat rails were good.Same here. The front of the floors near the firewall were wasted but the metal was nice and solid towards the back so I didn't need to mess with the seat brackets. i took pictures of the whole process:https://sites.google.com/a/thecomputerrehab.com/260z/body/floor-replacement Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2sixTZombii Posted May 9, 2014 Author Share #15 Posted May 9, 2014 You know looking at your pics, those pans do fit rather nice. I think I'll do the zedd findings pans. I think A new seat support could be made pretty easy, maybe not one as nice as John's but functional. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kurbycar32 Posted May 9, 2014 Share #16 Posted May 9, 2014 Yes they do fit pretty darn good. My only fabricating experience was high school metal shop about 15 years ago now and i didn't have trouble putting it together. A pro could knock this out in a few hours with perfect welds, it took me a whole weekend. On the plus side the welds are all ground down and then covered with seam sealer so you cant see my mediocre welding skills. While drinking a beer and staring at the rusted floor before doing any actual work (as i start all projects) i considered building a support beam/seat bracket to stiffen the chassis. The plan was to use a piece of square tubing from the frame sides, across the inside of the car in place of the seat bracket, into the transmission tunnel under the car and then the same on the other side. That beam could also be tied into a set of bad dog or equivalent frame rails. After three beers and finding my seat brackets intact I gave up on the idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grannyknot Posted May 11, 2014 Share #17 Posted May 11, 2014 By the time you finish welding floor pans in, fabing up some seat brackets will be childs play, just measure off the old ones.Then you can take that extra money and p/u the Bad Dog rails, beautifully made and will add real stiffness to the body.I also used Zedd findings pans and love them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Coffey Posted May 12, 2014 Share #18 Posted May 12, 2014 I would be leery of someone replacing floor pans for $150 in labor. It a big job with at least 8 hours work for each side from start to finish (I've replaced at least two dozen floor pans in S30s). At $150 flat rate his effective hourly rate is $18.75 an hour. For a fabricator with 20 years experience that's very low. You're either getting a fantastic deal, he has under estimated the work involved, or he's going to hack the car up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2sixTZombii Posted May 12, 2014 Author Share #19 Posted May 12, 2014 I would be leery of someone replacing floor pans for $150 in labor. It a big job with at least 8 hours work for each side from start to finish (I've replaced at least two dozen floor pans in S30s). At $150 flat rate his effective hourly rate is $18.75 an hour. For a fabricator with 20 years experience that's very low. You're either getting a fantastic deal, he has under estimated the work involved, or he's going to hack the car up.He's a good friend of my brothers who knows I'm poor and in need, part of the deal is that me and my brother will help him with the grunt work when we drive it to his shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Janitor Posted May 20, 2014 Share #20 Posted May 20, 2014 (edited) We bought Zedd Findings floors for our restoration, but they are a bit of a dissapointment. I was certainly not expecting to have drop in floors delivered, but I was also not expecting to have to redo most of the floor panel to make it fit. I'll let the pictures do the talking. Keep in mind, that was with the hump in the middle aligned 100% with the chassis, the bends that are supposed to lead up to the rocker are wrong. Keep an eye on the first and last pictures, the spacing between the first bend and the oval shaped drop in the pan had to be virtually removed in order for the pan to fit, I also had to relocate the pocket. In order to redo the bends, I had to flatten that side of the floor pan entirely up until the 90 degree flange. I don't know whether we got a bad set, or if all of them are equally as incorrect, but expect some work for $400 with ZF. Edited May 20, 2014 by The Janitor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EhlersRS Posted May 20, 2014 Share #21 Posted May 20, 2014 Daniel, I also bought a pair of Zedd Findings floor pans and support rails from MSA. I haven't started work on the car yet, so I can't speak to how difficult they are to replace, however the construction is high quality and close to the originals. As others have said, these pans will require some additional work to fit properly, but there isn't a quick solution to replacing floor pans. After you check the pricing from Charlie at Zedd Findings, I would also check with MSA since they sell the same floor pan kit from Zedd Findings. The shipping costs might be less from MSA since you won't have to pay duty from Canada. Right now they run $364.95 from MSA (Motorsport! Premium Floor Pan Kit, 70-8/74 240Z-260Z Coupe - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts) and they will give you a car club discount if you tell them your CZCC member id. Generally they give you around 10% off. From the other side of Iowa...I hope things are going well for you in Sioux City. Robert S. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartsscooterservice Posted May 25, 2014 Share #22 Posted May 25, 2014 Make sure you put them in the correct height. Don't rush, look carefully how the old floor pan is seated, to weld in the new one correctly. By the way I found the main reason why all the floor pans rust out: the water in the cowl area is leaking through the seam ( which dries up and doesn't seal anymore over time ), into the car on the floorpans, rusting them out slowly, make sure you tackle that problem to. I had my floor pans reapaired, only to find water in the car again.. if not tackled this problem, your new floorboard will be rusting out again. I used a rubber brush on sealant in my cowl to stop the leaks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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