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My new baby 72 240z


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Here's a pic to let you know what the hoses look like with everything else out of the way. Agreed that pulling the dash is a PITA and possibly a step too far. With your A/C in the way, you still have a quite a job ahead of you to clear out the blower assembly to get to the hoses. Get the passenger seat out for some room to work on your back. Don't forget to replace the water **** valve while you're in there. Good luck!

post-22303-14150829231281_thumb.jpg

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What i've read about bypassing the heater core is cylinder #6 runs a little hotter is all. Your emergency

repair should have not caused any severe overheating. In new york you really need a heater in the car.

I wouldn't remove it from the cooling system. I'de get some braided hoses for it from the dealer if they're still avail and pull the dash. I had purchased some replacement non braided hose from a z

parts supplier and they just didn't last. Another possibllity is a defective radiator cap. After

shutting down the engine, pressure builds up in the coolant system and if your radiator cap isn't releasing excessive pressure into the overflow tank, it can blow out hoses too. So check or replace the radiator cap.

Those thermostat bolts look kinda rusty. Be careful pulling them off. I'de hit them with

some wd40 or some rust cutter before trying to loosen them.

HELP!!!!! Sun. morning I go out to a show and me and my luck the engine must have over heated and blew my heater hose dumping hot coolant all over the pass floor. I cut the heater hose and connected it to the port coming out of the cylinder head in the back and put some water in and limped home. I've read numerous threads here and on hybridz and from what I can tell the best thing to delete the heater would be to plug the ports on the engine versus what I did. I guess what my ultimate question is what caused it to overheat in the first place? I'm pretty sure my Delorto's need to be tuned and maybe rebuilt. They idle really high also fall flat around 4500 rpm, also noticed fuel dripping from the first one last time. I'm not sure if that has to do with the carb's or if it is internal. the first thing I'll do is change the thermostat and plug the holes. from the mishap on Sun. If anyone else has had similar problems maybe can offer some advice.
Edited by hr369
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Thanks for all your pics and tips. I'm going to replace all the hoses with steel braided I think depends on the cost diff. it'll probably be cheaper to get all OG from the dealer. Is the water **** valve that fitting that the hoses are attached to in the picture?

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Yes that's it, a cable from your heater control panel hooks there and opens and closes it. Mine is frozen up and crusty. I just got a new water ****-heater valve yesterday from my Nissan dealer, $45.78 tax and all. Part #27116-E4400. After reading everyone's comments on standard heater hoses I may get the original equipment braided ones. They're out there, price wise for sure, $100 for 2 hoses and the firewall grommets. Maybe I'll use the Gates that I have already?

Mr Arnett, which hoses do you have? I need to do more researching!

It's the middle of the summer and I think I'll run a straight hose from the bottom coolant inlet by the alternator to the metal tube behind #6 that goes to the manifold and drive the tires off it. It doesn't get cold down here until December.

Edited by siteunseen
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it'll probably be cheaper to get all OG from the dealer.

The dealer parts guy has to get out old microfiche and search for part numbers, they don't like to do that or mine don't at least, if it's not on their computer they'll say they can't get it. Searching around the internet for part numbers is what I do then they can punch that in their computers without having to actually work, you get the parts and they'll be happy too. I think he said '84 and older is on the fiche.

Edited by siteunseen
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Mr Arnett, which hoses do you have? I need to do more researching!

It's the middle of the summer and I think I'll run a straight hose from the bottom coolant inlet by the alternator to the metal tube behind #6 that goes to the manifold and drive the tires off it. It doesn't get cold down here until December.

Cliff - my engine-to-heater hoses are pre-curved versions from Black Dragon, the short curved hose is from Nissan. As to part numbers, you can easily do your own look-ups with the online catalog: Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z Parts Manual. If that doesn't work, contact the folks at Courtesy. David House is a long-time Z guy and very good at running down parts. He might be able to have parts shipped directly to your dealer from the warehouse and save you shipping costs. Have your VIN and build-date handy for them.

Jim

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I'm gonna say that stuff would be hard to bend enough to hook to the heater valve. Mine has some off the shelf lines on it now and they're pinched off from the sharp bends. They need to be pre-formed or bent. The big ones for the top and bottom radiator hoses would be super nice! I'd like to have those too.

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yeah they also have some black nylon braided hoses that'll probably be easier to cut and Bend I'm going to check with my speed shop that's close to me to see what they have

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Overheating could be a block of flow somewhere in the system, or the radiator isn't cooling enough, or there is air in the system..

I can see from above interior pictures the hoses used for the interior heater core are wrong and way to long. Check both the valve for leaking and the heater core. I've been there myself and have taken it out, without removing the dash. It's a few hours work. The picture jfa.series1 posted above is how it should be connected :)

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Thanks for all your pics and tips. I'm going to replace all the hoses with steel braided I think depends on the cost diff. it'll probably be cheaper to get all OG from the dealer. Is the water **** valve that fitting that the hoses are attached to in the picture?

OEM style radiator hoses would be enough, stail braided isn't really necessary.

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