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Hardway's 1971 240z #8011 - Build and Repair Thread


Hardway

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In case you guys have forgotten, our aluminum heads sit on an iron block. Talk about dissimilar metal corrosion. An alternative solution (pun intended) is to use waterless coolant. Jay Leno's garage had a video on it. I began using it after installing an aluminum radiator.

I've been using it for more than a year including high speed cruising in 92+ degree days with no problems.

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In case you guys have forgotten, our aluminum heads sit on an iron block. Talk about dissimilar metal corrosion. An alternative solution (pun intended) is to use waterless coolant. Jay Leno's garage had a video on it. I began using it after installing an aluminum radiator.

I've been using it for more than a year including high speed cruising in 92+ degree days with no problems.

With a gasket in between...

Also, "regular" antifreeze performs the same function, regarding corrosion. Waterless Coolant isn't anything magic, it's just a brand name.

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I don't need marketing propaganda to make my decisions, thanks. This topic has already been discussed, if not here then on HybridZ, MSDS and all. A properly maintained cooling system will not corrode. I've examined enough L-series blocks and heads (among others) to see the effects of neglecting your cooling system, as well as maintaining it. Believe me, I know very well that theoretical stuff is fun to talk about but it helps to have a glimpse of reality when doing so.

Anyway, I don't want to derail this thread any further. There are some good points made in this thread (post #21 shares my sentiments, among others): http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/302124-you-using-evans-waterless-coolant.html

Edited by LeonV
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  • 2 weeks later...

Over the past few weekends I have had some time to work on the Z but unfortunately no time to post any updates. With a free Tuesday night on my hands I wanted to let you guys know what I have been up to. First and foremost, to everyone’s relief I addressed the issue of the aluminum radiator being bolted directly to the car. I knew there no shortage of options out there as many owners have used strip of rubber to various grommets and other things to use as a spacer. Knowing I did not want to use anything with adhesive on it I knew using a piece of foam rubber weather stripping was out. I then turned my focus to using some sort of grommet and then it hit me. I remembered when I repaired the toilet in one of our bathrooms that the bolt kit included some rubber reinforced washers. I figured the size should be pretty close to the size of the bolts holding on the radiator. A quick stroll down the plumbing aisle at Home Depot revealed the perfect parts kit. At $1.62 per kit I bought two so I had a total of 8 rubber washers. Each kit comes with everything you see and take note that 2 of the washers are slightly thicker than the other 2.

BoltSet.jpg

After about 20 minutes of working on it all the washers/spacers were installed. The fit snug around the bolts but not so tight that they were pain to install. For less than $5 my problem was solved and the best part it is nothing permanently attached to the vehicle.

RadBolts.jpg

With the radiator wrapped up I turned my attention to installing my new fan clutch. With the fan off I installed some new water pump studs along with a dab of thread locker on each. The studs are part of a Dorman water pump stud pack and included all 4 studs, lock washers, and nuts.

WPStuds.jpg

The fan clutch swap took just a few minutes. The difference between how tight the new clutch is compared to the old one was night and day.

FanNewClutch.jpg

A few minutes with my 10mm box wrench and the fan was back on. With the spacers installed it brings the radiator closer to the fan. I did not have any issues installing it and based on how close it is I am going to run without a shroud and see how things look.

FanNewClutch2.jpg

I drove out to the local Cars and Coffee meet the next day after doing this work. Between plenty of toll-way driving at 75mph and stop & go driving the needle never reached the half way mark. Job done!

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One of the great things about older cars is the opportunities they present in bringing parts back to life. One such part for my car is the Datsun script emblem that goes on the hatch. I did a refurb job on a used emblem I got off of Ebay. It came out so well I decided to post a thread about it here -> http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/body-paint-s30/52715-diy-datsun-script-emblem-repair-refurbishment.html#post460651

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Jeff,

Your car looks great! I had the same issue with the oil filter on my car, but the filter sat on the car for +20 years from the last oil change in 1989! At first I tried the big screwdriver punched through the filter, but that wasn't enough torque, so I had to use an old metal rod to break it loose. In the end the filter was mangled, but I got it off! :)

Keep up the good work!

Robert S.

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  • 1 month later...

Belated congrats for the new Z. I followed your other thread, and still look at it for my gradual rebuilt rear drivetrain install.

Question about your 240z tint strip on the windshield. Is it applied to the inside or outside of your windshield? I found a N.O.S. one on eBay a year or two ago, and tried applying it to the inside. Maybe it was because it was a 30 year old piece of film, or my lack of skills, but I failed miserably and gave up. Recently a gentleman told me tint strips are applied to the outside. Figured I'd ask.

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The 240-Z strip across the windshield is on the inside. It was put on by the original owner per my conversation with him. The second owner attempted to scrap it off at some point on the passenger side but it appeared to be coming off in little pieces so he gave up. I am honestly not a big fan of it but I am leaving it alone for now and will remove when the windshield is pulled for paint later down the road.

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