Hardway's 1971 240z #8011 - Build and Repair Thread

[Hardway]

Did he heat form the hoses in the oven or something similar?

 

He used a piece of copper pipe slightly smaller in diameter that the hose.  I believe he either bent the copper pipe first and pushed the hose over it or inserted the copper pipe and shaped it to the final product.  I can see the copper pipe in the hose and do not believe it would ever hurt anything as it still allows vacuum to go through it and obviously won't collapse.

[Patcon]

So he left the copper tubing in the pipe and that holds the form. Correct?

[AZ-240z]

With the Z running and stopping properly I wanted to share some detail work that was accomplished while diagnosing my sticking brake issue.  As I was troubleshooting the brake system I noticed just how tattered the original braided brake vacuum hoses were.  In my search for an alternative to the near $200 pair of hoses from MSA I started this thread -> http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/51823-alternative-brake-vacuum-hose-source/#entry474487

 

The old original hoses below.  They still worked but were completely dried up, hard as rocks, and were filthy from 40+ years of life under the hood.

 

 

 

After some discussion in my thread AZ-240z (Dan) indicated he had a used booster side vac. hose which was not braided but still in excellent condition.  I said I would take it!  In addition he offered to make me an engine side vac. hose.  We shared several emails back and forth with dimensions and pictures.  After about a week or so the two new hoses arrived.  Upon opening the box I was immediately impressed.  Not only with how good the hoses looked but how accurate the intake hose was that Dan made.

 

 

 

 

The process I used to create this master vac hose section is something I learned from Kats.  Kats used braided fuel hose which is the exact correct size, but

much softer than rubber vacuum tubing, and brass rod to give the hose perminent shape.

 

I used 11/32" ID brake vacuum hose from NAPA AUTO PARTS which is an exact match in size and texture to the Nissan hose, and 1/4" copper refrigerant

tubing from Home Depot.  Using a length of the copper tubing, I shaped it first and then slid the rubber hose over the tubing.  A little sil-glyde on the tubing

made the process fairly smooth but guard against using excessive pressure that might kink the copper tubing.

 

Before inserting the copper tubing, you must cut enough off of each end of the copper tubing,  one to one and a half inches, to allow room for the master vac,

check valve, or engine mounting fitting in the rubber tubing.  I, also, leave an extra 1/2" or so on the rubber tubing that can later be trimmed for a perfect fit.

 

I plan to make a compete set of these master vac hoses and will take all the measurments for those who might want to try this for there own project.

I'll try to attach the reference to Kats posting.

 

http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/23900-datsun-240z-vs-fairlady-z432/page-8

 

Look at post #154 on this page.

 

Let me know if there are any questions as to how I made this hose.

 

And, yes, the copper tubing remains in the vacuum hose to maintain the shape. 

 

Dan

Edited July 26, 2015 by AZ-240z

[Patcon]

Thanks Dan

[wheee!]

Awesome info....!

Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....

[AZ-240z]

The process I used to create this master vac hose section is something I learned from Kats.  Kats used braided fuel hose which is the exact correct size, but

much softer than rubber vacuum tubing, and brass rod to give the hose perminent shape.

 

I used 11/32" ID brake vacuum hose from NAPA AUTO PARTS which is an exact match in size and texture to the Nissan hose, and 1/4" copper refrigerant

tubing from Home Depot.  Using a length of the copper tubing, I shaped it first and then slid the rubber hose over the tubing.  A little sil-glyde on the tubing

made the process fairly smooth but guard against using excessive pressure that might kink the copper tubing.

 

Before inserting the copper tubing, you must cut enough off of each end of the copper tubing,  one to one and a half inches, to allow room for the master vac,

check valve, or engine mounting fitting in the rubber tubing.  I, also, leave an extra 1/2" or so on the rubber tubing that can later be trimmed for a perfect fit.

 

I plan to make a compete set of these master vac hoses and will take all the measurments for those who might want to try this for there own project.

I'll try to attach the reference to Kats posting.

 

http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/23900-datsun-240z-vs-fairlady-z432/page-8

 

Look at post #154 on this page.

 

Let me know if there are any questions as to how I made this hose.

 

And, yes, the copper tubing remains in the vacuum hose to maintain the shape. 

 

Dan

 

 

Just to add to my last post, and I thought that this would be the most logical place for this, I wanted to see how difficult it would be to make a full

set of these hoses using my technique.

 

I did make a pretty nice set with the correct 11/32" ID brake vacuum hose and 1/4" copper tubing.  I first formed the copper tubing, and then, with

some sil-glide lube, threaded to hose over the tubing.  In retrospect, I probably wouldn't compete the copper tubing bends, just start them so as

to make getting the hose on a little easier.

 

I have attached an image of the hoses with the ones I made in the foreground and to the right.  The vac side hose in the back of the image is an

NOS rubber vac hose I used to replicate.  I trial fitted both hoses to my car and the fit was perfect, as far as I could tell. 

 

My experiment successfully completed, I am offering these to anyone in need of a set of early mastervac hoses for the cost of mailing.

 

Please PM me with your response, and I hope that this may help others on this forum.

 

Dan

[Hardway]

Over the past few weeks I have made some more progress and a few changes on the Z.  I was in the Dallas area visiting family and friends over the July 4^th weekend and picked up a set of dealer spec 14 x 5.5 slotted mags with tires for a very reasonable price.  I have always liked the slotted mags on Z cars and have spent many months trying to find a local set of 14 x 7 mags that accept a press on or push through center cap to no avail.  The tire size is 185/65/14 and they seem to be in good shape for their age.  I promptly ordered a set of center caps and used a set of heavy duty Z decals to place on them.  They look like the same kind of caps and decals MSA sells and you see them on a lot of mag wheel’d Z cars.

 

The car still sits a little nose high and the current tires do nothing to hide it.  So far I like them and I think they are more fitting than the 14 x 7 American Racing quasi turbine wheels that were on the car.  My dream set of wheels are some 16 x 7 Panasports but that will have to wait awhile.

 

 

 

Ever since I did the cylinder head work I have been meaning to do an oil change.  Since we are now in the middle of the heat season I woke up at 6am with plans to have the work wrapped up by 7am before it got too hot.  Based on other owner’s feedback I switched to Valvoline VR1 20W-50.  It was no more expensive than the Castrol GTX I usually use and based on how much quieter the engine is it was definitely good move.  Of course a Wix filter was used again as always in my classic cars.

 

 

[Hardway]

In attempt to add some elegance to the Z and better handling I have been watching and wanting to get a Nardi wooden steering wheel for the car.  Unfortunately even used ones easily bring $200+ all day long.  Add a nice hub to it and you will have $300 - $400 in a steering wheel setup.  So I found this 350mm NRG wheel on Ebay for $126 shipped and bought a BOSS hub kit for $35 shipped.  Overall the wheel is pretty nice and it was on the only one in 350mm that I liked and was also affordable.  Most Nardi wheels are 365mm which is roughly the same size as the stock Z wheel.  Unfortunately the hub leaves a lot to be desired, starting with the plastic flange on the back.  I actually did quite a bit of research before buying it I never came across this issue.  However once installed and I saw the gap a new Google search of this issue brings up many responses as this kit is used on a wide array of Datsun vehicles.  Now I can see why people drop a c-note for a Momo hub.   Another lesson in, you get what you pay for.

 

 

 

 

At this time I am not 100% sure I am going to keep the setup on the car.   The new wheel just does not blend with the interior like I hoped it would.  However my new shift knob looks right at home!  I am going to drive the car some more with the new wheel as it does feel good in the hands, just not sure about the look.  At the very least the car is up to scratch, running good, and is ready to be enjoyed for a while.  If I do keep it I will get a different horn button as the generic Nissan button looks pretty pitiful.

[Red7]

Absolutely wonderful pics, love this Z [emoji41][emoji41][emoji41] with regard to the blackened out engine bay i posted the other week as to why so many Z's have them, the consensus was that it's the original colour of the car and the outside colour, color :-) , that had been changed, it put me off calling about quite a few cars to be honest, as I wanted a Z that was 95% finished, once again , wonderful thread [emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]

Edited August 9, 2015 by Red7

[rcb280z]

That is a beautiful Z! Are you going to keep the original steering wheel? I'm thinking of replacing my stock 280Z wheel with a 240 wheel. Hint, hint. 

[Hardway]

Thank you for the compliments Red7.  We are in the same boat on the blacked out engine bays.  I personally despise them on Z car's as I always see them as covering something up.  But to each their own but I am happy mine was repainted back to the original silver.

 

Sorry RCB280z, I am keeping the original steering wheel as it belongs to the car.  In fact, I may be putting it back on as I am still on the fence about the new steering wheel.  It is nice to drive with but it takes away from the originality of the car.  Look around on Ebay, the Datsun Classifieds, or Datsun Parts Facebook site, someone is always selling one.  Also, don't be afraid of refinishing one, there are several DIY threads on restoring them.  Plus, you may be able to get a great deal on one if you don't mind putting in some sweat equity.

[jfa.series1]

Jeff - your work on the car is awesome, congratulations on a super effort and an outstanding result.  The next time you expect to be in the Dallas area, give a shout - maybe we can get together for a cold one and swap some stories.

 

Jim