Fitting a HEI Module in Transistor Ignition Unit 1977 280Z

[wheee!]

Maybe update your PDF file@eurodat to include the instructions for swapping coils and removing the ballast wiring.

[kyle146]

I actually was curious and have been trying to research this everywhere but can I keep my stock externally resistor coil or do I now need a new coil. Does it need to be internally resisted or externally. I know the Ohms matter but I want to make sure the stock coil would be okay for the HEI conversion. (edit: I do see that this does bypass the resistor but when I look at the pic @EuroDat put on it shows he is running a Beru coil with a resistance of 0.9 Ohms and it says clearly underneath it to only use this coil with a ballast resister. But in a later post he does mention using the Flame-Thrower II which is internally resisted. Sorry I just don't want to get the wrong coil.)

Edited August 15, 2019 by kyle146

[EuroDat]

8 hours ago, kyle146 said:

I actually was curious and have been trying to research this everywhere but can I keep my stock externally resistor coil or do I now need a new coil. Does it need to be internally resisted or externally. I know the Ohms matter but I want to make sure the stock coil would be okay for the HEI conversion. (edit: I do see that this does bypass the resistor but when I look at the pic @EuroDat put on it shows he is running a Beru coil with a resistance of 0.9 Ohms and it says clearly underneath it to only use this coil with a ballast resister. But in a later post he does mention using the Flame-Thrower II which is internally resisted. Sorry I just don't want to get the wrong coil.)

Hi Kyle,

You can run the original coil with resistor, but you with reduce the current limiting feature in the HEI.

Good observation. Yes the photo was with my original Beru coil which needs a external resistor. I ran it with the resistor (without the bridging strip) while waiting for the Flame thrower to come. Two days after that photo I changed coils.

The important thing to remember is the HEI needs 12 volts. If you make a temporary set-up next to the coil for testing, make sure you use the 12 volt black/white stripe wire going to the resistor and not the reduced voltage after the resistor (between resistor and coil).

If you are buyimg a new coil and plan on using a HEI module, I would suggest buying a 12v coil with .0.8 to 1.0 ohm coil.

[kyle146]

30 minutes ago, EuroDat said:

Hi Kyle,

You can run the original coil with resistor, but you with reduce the current limiting feature in the HEI.

Good observation. Yes the photo was with my original Beru coil which needs a external resistor. I ran it with the resistor (without the bridging strip) while waiting for the Flame thrower to come. Two days after that photo I changed coils.

The important thing to remember is the HEI needs 12 volts. If you make a temporary set-up next to the coil for testing, make sure you use the 12 volt black/white stripe wire going to the resistor and not the reduced voltage after the resistor (between resistor and coil).

If you are buyimg a new coil and plan on using a HEI module, I would suggest buying a 12v coil with .0.8 to 1.0 ohm coil.

Ok great good to know! I actually plan to buy this coil : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00199DPWQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_IozvDbW9PBQ4J

Now I didn't see in the instructions about bridging the resistor so Im going with the hunch that changing the wires at the TIU will be the only thing I need to do? 

[EuroDat]

You shouldn't do anything to the wiring outside the TIU. If you want to bridge the resistor, just remove the front black/white stripe wire and fit it to the second last terminal (from the rear) which goes directly to the coil positive.

I'm using that same coil. Flame Thrower 45011.

[EuroDat]

Btw. The purpose of using an external resistor is to aid in starting. Specially in cold conditions.

When the engine is cranking the battery voltage will drop to around 9 volts. The ignition switch will then bypass a section or the resistor completly given the coil a higher voltage (close to normal voltage) during starting.

[kyle146]

16 minutes ago, EuroDat said:

You shouldn't do anything to the wiring outside the TIU. If you want to bridge the resistor, just remove the front black/white stripe wire and fit it to the second last terminal (from the rear) which goes directly to the coil positive.

I'm using that same coil. Flame Thrower 45011.

Ok so pretty much its as easy as I thought. So keeping the resistor around will not limit the coil while its running? Sorry I just want to make 100% sure I get this all good. Will bridging the resistor do anything positive for the car or should I just run it just as the instructions state. I would like to have the car spark at its fullest potential rather than be limited to the stock resisted spark (edit: I do also see now in the picture that you did move the wire from one end of the terminal on the resistor to be with the other one)

Edited August 15, 2019 by kyle146

[EuroDat]

If you want maximum spark then you should bypass the resistor. You can do that by bridging the terminals or taking the black/white striped wire and fitting it directly to the coil +.

I wanted to keep the original look with the resistor in place but not having any function.

[kyle146]

10 minutes ago, EuroDat said:

If you want maximum spark then you should bypass the resistor. You can do that by bridging the terminals or taking the black/white striped wire and fitting it directly to the coil +.

I wanted to keep the original look with the resistor in place but not having any function.

Ok sounds good. I think I will bridge the terminals. It looks like you did that in this picture right? Where you bridged the wires to one terminal

[EuroDat]

Yes exactly. That was my temporary fix until I made the strip for the resistor.

[kyle146]

8 minutes ago, EuroDat said:

Yes exactly. That was my temporary fix until I made the strip for the resistor.

Perfect thank you so much! 

[kyle146]

On 8/15/2019 at 12:09 PM, EuroDat said:

 

So I have completed the mod and Im having a little bit of an odd issue. No spark but I followed all of the diagnostics of the mod and whats even funnier is the car will start if i reverse the green and red wires. The timing will be off and it wont rev past that 2500 mark just like what the instructions say but it starts. As soon as I swap it back to the right way no spark at all. I even unplugged all the spark plugs and used one grounded out to see if i even got a weak spark. Ive replaced the pick up coil as it was past its resistance point (805 ohms) and now the new one sits at 755 with the right air gap. I have a warranty on this HEI so at worst ill go tommorow and get a new one. If you have any other ideas I would love some help!