Don't know if this relates but a month or so ago there was a lot of discussion about a rubber disc between the mc & booster rod that tends to fall down in the booster. & forgotten. Without it the pedal has a lot of travel. Possible that the mc piston doesn't have enough stroke to bleed the air out because the stroke is too short?

I had a heck of a time adjusting the brake booster pushrod to the correct length. Setting it up like the factory service manual stated left a very long peddle throw. I kept adjusting until I liked the peddle feel. The rear brakes will drag and lock up if you go too far but just back up 1/8 turn and it should be perfect.

I would lose the second proportioning valve. Should only have one.

Edited July 8, 201410 yr by 30 Ounce

Hello All, Need major help with this last problem. I have restored entire bottom part of this z. Suspension, brakes, brake lines, bushings, rotors, calipers, rear conversion. I can not get brake peddle to rise. New brake lines including new booster and master. no leeks, but peddle will not rise? I'm getting bubbles in both reservoirs for front and rear? I have a peddle but it sucks? Please help me, this car is too perfect to let sit in garage.

Bubbles indicate air in the system. Bench bleed the master again and then move to the wheel cylinders.

Why are you running two proportioning valves. Is the original still in place and an extra aftermarket in the rear line?

Your pedal problem could be the reaction disc in the brake booster fell down inside the booster. Or the rod adjustment to the master cylinder. That can cause your problem.

Some aftermarket mc are not put together correctly. Should check that as well.

Thanks to everyone for your help and or advise. I'm hitting it hard tonight and will update everyone on my findings. Cheers

Really? Thanks brother i will try that as well. Cheers

chefman,

I live in Austin as well and would be happy to help out a fellow Z owner if you continue to have problems.

Just let me know and I'd be happy to lend you a hand.

Mike.

Too Cool. Nice to know there are a few of us left in Austin. Ed with the z-clinic and David and Dan Tucker from Jap tech dropped off the radar? I have pulled master and all front brake lines as well as both portioning vales. I will adjust the new booster and replace the lines and see what we get? Keep your fingers and toes crossed for me. Thanks brother. Seeing that your in Austin we will have to connect and revive the z. Thanks

chefman, I'll be down in Kyle next week and would be happy to help turn a wrench if you need it. Won't have my Z though.

I was out of town for the weekend. I still cant figure out why i don't have pressure with the front brakes? I have tried everything listed except for changing out calipers and brake hoses? Anyone have advise?

chefman, I'll be down in Kyle next week and would be happy to help turn a wrench if you need it. Won't have my Z though.

One thing that people have done to isolate a problem is to convert one of the fittings in to a plug. For example, take an old fitting with a piece of metal brake line, cut the line short, then bend it and crimp it so it won't leak. Then take that plug and block off various parts of the system. Block the fronts and see if the rears are solid, and vice-versa. Block one caliper, block the other, see if there's a difference. Block the proportioning valves, etc. You can even build two plugs and block the ports from the master cylinder to see if the MC is the problem.

Have to say though that you haven't really given a good description of what the pedal is doing. Is it high or low, will it pump up, does it drop if you just hold constant pressure on it... etc. Al I see is soft pedal (what does that mean?), air bubbles in the reservoir, and the rear brakes "work great" (no details on what "great" means). Plus you said the rears work great, but you're reporting bubbles in the rear reservoir. The solution is in the details, but you have to provide those.

Good luck.