'73 Choke lever assembly

[Stanley]

At first I thought I broke the cable or the handle, but it's probably not that bad. When I pulled out the ashtray and some greasy jute material that was in there, and looked into the metal pan under it, I saw that the screw that holds the cable and lever assembly had fallen out. It was there along with a small nut, two thick plastic washers and a thin metal washer. Using a mirror and flashlight I can see what I think is the end of the cable, maybe a loop, but can't reach it with the lever in the way.

Before I attempt to take it apart, wonder if there's a link to a drawing or photo of it. Tried the search feature but it didn't find it. Kind of difficult working under the ashtray.

[CanTechZ]

Does this help:

XenonS30

If you search around on xenons30 you probably find the console as well, or download the '73 FSM.

Mike

[EuroDat]

Her is an ebay seller with some photos that might help

Datsun 240Z 1972 73 Choke Cable Lever Mounting Bracket | eBay

[siteunseen]

Post #6 also has some photos that might help, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/interior-s30/52166-choke-lever-mount-broken-under-console.html

[Stanley]

Thank you, ISP too slow for that manual download today. Here's some shots of it.

Will I need to unhook the choke cables at the carbs to get the thing out and back in?

Looks like it's attached to the top (underside) of that cavity under the ashtray, instead of to the bottom, on the '73's (built 9/72).

Those plastic caps on the warning lights in front of the ashtray don't look stock, wonder what was done.

Edited July 11, 2014 by Stanley

[Mark Maras]

I had better access to the choke lever assembly by removing the console first. A couple of the plastic screw bosses were broken. Epoxied them back in place, lubed the cables, choke lever assembly & carbs. It works fine for now but I'm sure I will have to beef up the mounting point for a permanent fix. I suspect if everything was periodically lubed there would be little problem with the inferior design.

[Pop's Z]

The one thing I found that helps to make the cables run smoother is to use the 70-72 position for the cable through the firewall. In 73 they had a much longer cable and ran it through the firewall on the passenger side. Earlier cars had the through the firewall on the driver's side with much shorter cables. If you look real close under the throttle linkage on the firewall in the engine compartment you will find a small dimple in the firewall. This is where the old series choke cables ran. You will find an unused cut-out in the interior firewall insulation, too. I used a hole saw to open it up, moved the grommet the cables run through (got a new one from MSA because the old one was old and torn), moved the cables and shortened the outer casing, ran the cables through the choke assemblies on the carbs and shortened them. Lubed the cables and they are effortless and place almost zero stress on the lever. You could cover the old hole with a rubber plug, but I used it for one of the lines on my A/C install.

Cheers, Mike

[Stanley]

Finally got around to messing with it again. Borrowed a '72 body manual but it didn't have anything. Figured out the bolt can only go one way. It goes in from the lever side, then there's a plastic washer (or two?), then through the mounting bracket with metal washer and the nut on the other side. The plastic caps snap open, they have a retaining ring around the screw. I took one out and loosened the other so the bracket could move a little.

The bolt and washers kept falling apart on the lever until I put a little paper clip on to hold it together while getting it lined up with the hole in the bracket. Finally got it hooked up.

But I did it wrong! I did bolt head, plastic washer, lever, plastic washer, bracket like the third photo posted by EuroDat (that setup looks way different than mine, BTW). But after trying it, looks like it should be bolt head, lever, both plastic washers, bracket. I think. Otherwise it binds. Need to redo it. Wonder if there's an exploded drawing of it somewhere.

Might not have been easier to remove the console, at least on the 73.

Edited July 19, 2014 by Stanley

[EuroDat]

But I did it wrong! I did bolt head, plastic washer, lever, plastic washer, bracket like the third photo posted by EuroDat (that setup looks way different than mine, BTW). But after trying it, looks like it should be bolt head, lever, both plastic washers, bracket. I think. Otherwise it binds. Need to redo it. Wonder if there's an exploded drawing of it somewhere.

Might not have been easier to remove the console, at least on the 73.

That doesn't seem right. You would think the Bolt head - Washer - Lever - Washer would be the correct combination. That way the lever is in between the two plastic washers. No metal to metal contact and less friction/wear on the parts.

Sounds like the lever maybe bent or way out of alignment. Maybe a PO bent it to compensate for an incorrect install? I have a European 260Z manual (hard copy) but it doesn't show any detail of the choke mechanism. Im just rambling a bit, having a 280z with efi myself doesn't help much either.

Can you see were it is binding? Is the cable aligned. If the cable has to make a sharp bend, it will bind.

Chas

Edited July 20, 2014 by EuroDat
spelling :( should of had that second cup of coffee

[Casey_z]

Just remove console and see post 3. Great aftermarket fix.

4 or 5 screws is all that holds the console in place.

Once it is out you can effect whatever repair is necessary.

[Stanley]

Right, the washers were in the correct order, it was binding because the bracket wasn't centered. Loosened the two screws and lined it up, now it's OK. Couldn't find the silicone so put some spray grease on it.

[jharvat]

Don't want to derail the thread but where can you source the little screw that holds the plastic choke handle onto the lever mechanism?