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Fuel injector replacements


Blue_streak

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A possible solution may be magnetizing either the bolt or washer, I've used a 110v solenoid for magnetizing sockets, screwdrivers & wrenches. Pull the plunger out of the sol., insert STEEL object to be mag, turn on the power for a few seconds & turn it off, before removing the object. I've not tried this with a loose object, needlenose pliars would be my choice. Hope it helps

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Captain, I might have an alternative idea. I've been doing some DIY HVAC work and have been using a product called Nylog. Nylog is a compressor oil GEL that's very sticky. But because it's an oil, you can clean it up the way you would clean up any oil. You could probably (I haven't tried it) stick a lock washer onto a screw, stick both onto the end of an allen wrench, and insert into the hole.

Another approach might be to wrap an allen wrench with a collar of electrical tape about the dia of the lock washer and screw head. Insert screw head and lock washer onto wrench. Then over-wrap with another wrap of electrical tape. Start the screw, then pull the tool off the washer and head. Tighten with an identical allen wrench.

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  Captain Obvious said:
Last time I messed with that I bought stainless socket head cap screws and modified them to include captive lock washers. Was not a fun project and I'm not sure I'd do it again. I went through that trouble because it was on my 300ZX and the screws go in almost vertical. The washers are almost guaranteed to fall off the screws if they aren't captive.

So question is...

Anyone have a source for SHCS like that which have captive lock washers so you don't run the risk of dropping washers down into the bowels of the intake/exhaust manifolds by accident? Stainless would be preferred, but a good chromate coat would be good enough.

These guys have nice CAD plated SEMS metric bolts. Search for "SEMS M5" or "SEMS M6" to see what they have.

M5 - 0.8 x 30mm Phillips Hex Head SEMS Screw, Class 8.8

Is the lock and flat washer a show stopper?

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  Zed Head said:
Here's a trick I learned from a machinist I used to work for, a way to keep swarf out of critical areas. Turn the part upside down.

So suspend car from rafters upside down, then inset bolts into manifold upward and tighten? :)

So no-one's heard of the peanut butter trick? Thick enough to hold the bits together while you insert them, then it melts off when you run the engine and you get the joyous odor of hot peanut butter cookies while it melts off. Oh ya, and "A little dab will do ya'!"

Edited by zKars
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Thanks all for the suggestions on alternative ideas to making my own captive washer systems.

zKars, Those Phillips head bolts you linked to look great and I've got no problem with having a flat washer in addition to the lock. On the contrary, that would have been nice. Unfortunately, however, for the 300ZX I really wanted socket head because of Nissan's stupid design of the intake plenum partially eclipsing the injectors and their mounting screws.

On the 300ZX it's impossible to get a straight on shot at some of the fuel injector screws and with a ball ended hex key driver you can deal with more misalignment with the socket head than you can with a Phillips screwdriver.

However... Since I've traded my 300 for a 280, it's unlikely I'll have to do that again. And the screws you found look like they would work great for the 280Z because you could skip the screwdriver completely and just use a socket on it instead. You don't have that option on the 300ZX.

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  Blue_streak said:
Well just a update, injectors installed. Car still won't start , now at a complete loss

I didn't know you had a problem with it not starting.

You could give some more details. What have you done so far other than replace injectors.

What is it doing exactly?

Does it crank over?

Does it want to start or nothing but turn over or backfiring?

Have you tryed using starter fluid to confirm it is a fuel problem?

Have you checked the efi harness fusable link?

A lot of simple checks that also give a lot of information.

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Sorry ya injectors where essentially the last thing. The old ones where toast plugged and old. I have replaced the fuel pump, the coil, the fusible links, the starter, I got the ignition relay from Dave Irwin, plug wires, spark plugs, distributor, cap, rotor and the fuel filter. The afm is working, I am getting spark and fuel is getting to the engine. The only thing I am thinking now is the injectors are not getting signal to pulse.

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