Your right. Thanks Zed. Ill correct it.

Something else worth mentioning. I checked my gauge (in the photos) at work and its was reading about 2-3psi high. So 40psi is really about 37-38psi. Its now calibrated (as best a gauge can be)

Chas

Edited July 22, 201410 yr by EuroDat

Ok I did all of sections of test 2 in the efi bible the car failed ignition coil trigger input. Passed everything else though so now I no where to look

I think I may have found a new mystery in my car.using the color wire diagrams available for 76 280z I was trying to trace the wire from the negative terminal on the coil to the ecu. According to it I should have 2 blue wires coming off the coil one to positive one to negative. I have a black and white on the negative and a blue on the positive.which if I'm right means that it's a 77 wire harness, according to the 77 color wire diagram,and the wires are going to the wrong terminals. I'm gonna swap them and do the test with the ecu plug when I get home from work tonight

Edited July 23, 201410 yr by Blue_streak

The coil will actually work with the wires backward. I don't know if it's good for it or harms the performance or if it even matters. But the ballast resistor connections need to be correct, to have the correct wires to the ignition module and power supply.

You're on the right track though, getting all wires back to spec.

L = blue, BW = black with white stripe, BL = black with blue stripe,

Edited July 23, 201410 yr by Zed Head

Yup it's completely backwards on mine, keeping fingers crossed that this is the reason the ecu isn't getting signal to pulse injectors. Will update when I fix this later tonight.

Alas, while the wiring was to the wrong terminals on the coil, fixing it still did allow the car to pass the test on pin 1. No continuity on the line to the ecu plug...great.

Edited July 24, 201410 yr by Blue_streak

Quick update i found the connector i missed, hooked it up and.....damn battery is dead. But the car does now pass the test on pin 1 so we shall see.

Just a quick thing to check: If you did the ZX distributor upgrade, then there should be no ballast resistor AND you should have the matching ZX coil to go with it.

Another thing to check: Does your tachometer operate properly? My 1976 had a ZX distributor/ignition module upgrade performed by the previous owner. It ran but would cut out sometimes AND the tachometer was jumpy and did not read correctly. I believe both of these are symptoms of a weak/dying ignition module. I replaced the distributor/ignition module with a "rebuilt" unit and it fixed both of these problems.