NoLeafClover Posted July 12, 2014 Share #1 Posted July 12, 2014 Okay, I just boughat my first Z earlier today. My father owned the same 79 280zx model back when I was a kid and Damn it was awesome. I want to rebuild what he had and restore this one to its full potential but I just can't catch a glimpse of that happening. I've been battling with it since I got it home (I drove it 40 some miles with no more than some minor bumping in the front left tin rod and high revs in neutral and between shifts). I go to inspect my prize and I see chaos. The tube behind the mass air flow module (or what I believe to be) had been wrapped several times with electrical tape. Turns out it had a massive tear. Then I got it going again to test the high revs and it started going up and down between 2 and 3k rpms like it was galloping. Soon after it stalled. I was told it had a leaky exhaust manifold seal but this was not something I know to become of that. I started it back up and it launched the alternator belt clean off. I put it back on after turning the car off and it hasn't stayet running since. I tried puting it on both pulleys coming from the block but neither seems to make a difference. It'll run for five or six minutes and die a slow startling jumpy death. What all am I dealing with here!?!? Have I just thrown 2 grand away?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EuroDat Posted July 12, 2014 Share #2 Posted July 12, 2014 (edited) Welcome to the club.Just reading through your intro and you are saying a lot, but not much at the same time. Please don't take that the wrong way.You mention that your father had a 79 ZX, but you have a Z. 280Z maybe? That makes a big difference when it comes to details. Its a good idea to mention your car model, year and maybe build date in your singniture.The revving and high idle your experiencing sounds like an air leak after the throttle body. The torn rubber connection you described is not uncommon. You can temporarily tape it until you get another.I would sugest downloading the FSM and getting firmiliar with the EFI system in your car.XenonS30XenonS130 - S130 Reference Don't forget to download the Fuel Injection Supplement (aka Bible)As for the alternator belt jumping off. Check the alignment of all the pulleys and check for free play in the alternator bracket (with the belt off).A new belt tensioned correctly will probably help a lot. Don't know how old this one is??Word of advice: The tone in you thread sounds like you are frustrated with your purchase. Its an old car and will always need more care than a modern day car. Even new that required more attention than todays low maintenance vehicles. They can be very reliable, but just require more attention.Second: It its frustrating you. Stop and do something else for a while and I dont mean search the internet for clues. Something entirely non related. When you come back with a clear head, things general make more sense. Works for me.GoodluckChas Edited July 12, 2014 by EuroDat Smartphone Typos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjr45 Posted July 12, 2014 Share #3 Posted July 12, 2014 Welcome, you'll find lots of knowledgeable folks on here that can help solve most issues, with that said, ditto what Chas said. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted July 12, 2014 Share #4 Posted July 12, 2014 I go to inspect my prize and I see chaos. The tube behind the mass air flow module (or what I believe to be) had been wrapped several times with electrical tape. Turns out it had a massive tear. Then I got it going again to test the high revs and it started going up and down between 2 and 3k rpms like it was galloping. Soon after it stalled. I was told it had a leaky exhaust manifold seal but this was not something I know to become of that. I started it back up and it launched the alternator belt clean off. I put it back on after turning the car off and it hasn't stayet running since. I tried puting it on both pulleys coming from the block but neither seems to make a difference. It'll run for five or six minutes and die a slow startling jumpy death. What all am I dealing with here!?!? Have I just thrown 2 grand away??Everything connected to the intake manifold has to be sealed from the outside air. In other words, all air must pass through the air flow meter (air flow module was pretty close). This includes the crankcase, meaning the oil filler cap, the dipstick tube, all of the little vacuum lines, even the brake booster, all need to be working properly and sealed up. Keep that in mind and it might help you get started. The PO might have "tuned" the engine to run with vacuum leaks. That could be a problem. One way to tell if you have leaks is to pull a small hose fromthe intake manifold, or unscrew the oil filler cap. If the idle speed increases that's good. If nothing happens, not so good. If you take the oil filler cap completely off the engine should die.The belt flying off would normally be from a wobbling pulley. Better check all three, the alternator, the water pump, and the crankshaft damper. Don't run without the belt because it drives the water pump. The engine will overheat, and that is very very bad for these engines. Very very. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoLeafClover Posted July 12, 2014 Author Share #5 Posted July 12, 2014 I got a new belt on the alternator and that worked wonders, thanks for all the info and admittedly yes I was very upset with my new car. I was told it was a good DD, and I had to limp it to the parts store 2 miles from home. The guys there said they didn't know squat about a ZX (sorry if I left that out, it's the 5 speed 79 z model), but one guy said he knew basic mechanics enough to say I had some problems bigger than an air leak. I went over everything with text instructions from my dad, but all I noticed out of whack visibly was the throttle stick thingy doesn't want to turn back to naught after a good pushing, and the screw on the motor that alters the idle was ALL the way down. It's running very hot and popping and bogging down if I lay on the gas or switch gears at anything over 4k rpm. I'm not very knowledgeable on terminology so excuse my childish word floundering. NoLeafClover, 79 model 280zx. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoLeafClover Posted July 12, 2014 Author Share #6 Posted July 12, 2014 Also, I have some various questions jus to make sure I'm not missing anything. How many belts should be coming off the front of the motor? I see two pulleys but only have one belt... should I have to use force to turn it at a slow speed? I have no clue why but I do have to almost entirely manually turn the wheel in low gears or low speeds. Could the massive exhaust tip it has on it be a problem? It's a 4 inch I believe. What can I do to keep it from overheating even with fresh water/ coolant in it? Is it possible the.aftermarket rear end in it is messing up anything like my speedometer or anything at all? Maybe the bogging and popping are from it as well? It says I'm doing 80 in first gear... so I know the speedometer is definitely out of whack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted July 12, 2014 Share #7 Posted July 12, 2014 The guys there said they didn't know squat about a ZX - this is very common.t all I noticed out of whack visibly was the throttle stick thingy doesn't want to turn back to naught after a good pushing, - no idea what this meansthe screw on the motor that alters the idle was ALL the way down. - this is a sign of a vacuum leak. Maybe. there is no motor to alter the idle on the stock engineIt's running very hot and popping and bogging down if I lay on the gas or switch gears at anything over 4k rpm. - popping and bogging is a sing of a vacuum leakHow many belts should be coming off the front of the motor? I see two pulleys but only have one belt - the engine may have had an AC compressor in the past.why but I do have to almost entirely manually turn the wheel in low gears or low speeds - no power steering. It's good for you. Could the massive exhaust tip it has on it be a problem? It's a 4 inch I believe. - not directly, but it is a sign of "tuner madness".What can I do to keep it from overheating even with fresh water/ coolant in it - more details will help. If it overheats while driving donw the road that is most likely a radiator or water flow (pump, blocked channels, etc.) problem. If it only overheats when stopped, that is a fan clutch problem sign. the.aftermarket rear end - explain. How bout some pictures of all this mess? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoLeafClover Posted July 12, 2014 Author Share #8 Posted July 12, 2014 I will go out and take pictures if the poor beast in a minute, my seven year old misplaced my boots. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoLeafClover Posted July 12, 2014 Author Share #9 Posted July 12, 2014 I now realisee I have no clue how to post all these pictures from my mobile... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoLeafClover Posted July 12, 2014 Author Share #10 Posted July 12, 2014 The screw on the side of the cover in the s first picture is the one I meant he tightened to alter the idle... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoLeafClover Posted July 12, 2014 Author Share #11 Posted July 12, 2014 This is the tube I meant in the beginning had a tear in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoLeafClover Posted July 12, 2014 Author Share #12 Posted July 12, 2014 This is the throttle piece that won't turn back to normal after I press the pedal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilbur
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