Too many problems to list...

[EuroDat]

The number one problem I have that scares me is the high revving, that's the correct screw with the arrow and I watched him tighten it as he said it was going to change things.

The high revving doesn't scare me that much. It sounds like an air leak or sticky throttle linkage. Both problems can be fixed with basic tools and a little coaching.

Overheating is something that can be a little or very big problem.

If I was in your situation, I would start with simple things like the rubber hose with the dodgy tape repair. Remove the hose carefully and clean it and let it dry. Check all the cracks and seal then up with silicone sealant. Let it dry and put it back in. It will do for testing until you get a new one or one in better condition.

Thats your next sucess /potential air leak solved.

Next the heating problem. Remove the radiator cap and get the engine hot again. Check for bubbles escaping from the radiator. It a sign that the head gasket is leaking or cracks in the head. Its not 100% but its a good indication.

If thats ok then it could be a faulty thermostat. You can remove it easily and test it in a pot of water. Warm it up and see when it opens. You will need a new thermostat housing gasket to re-install the thermostat.

Try to keep things simple and move step for step forward.

Good luck.

Chas

Edited July 12, 2014 by EuroDat

[NoLeafClover]

I get ahead of myself, I'll admit. But it's gotten worse after adding oil treatment and fluid to the radiator to seal any leaks. Now it pops loudly about every other second to every 5 seconds. Some smaller and close together and some loud and lonely.

[Zed Head]

Is this while idling?

The small details can have a big impact with these engines. Vacuum leaks are a big problem. You can't really do any tuning at all if youhave vacuum leaks.

Also, just the simple basics like getting your ignition timing right, and adjusting valve lash are important. Basic steps before you get carried away. People have spent lots of effort on the wrong things, then found that something basic wasn't set right.

There's am Engine Tuneup chapter in the FSM. Do the steps in order and you'll be way ahead.

Edited July 13, 2014 by Zed Head

[Zed Head]

I checked under the throttle body and I have no spring. Is there a certain type I can purchase at the parts store or is it something I'll have to put on order?

Here's a picture of where the spring would attach to pull the throttle closed. I bought several at a hardware store and tried a few until one felt right.

Also added a line to show where you might have hidden vacuum leaks. each one of those tubes will leak when the throttle is opened but wil be closed when the throttle is closed. They should all have a hose attached (ideal stock configuration) or be sealed (in the meantime).

[Hunter260Z]

I agree with EuroDat in post #25 regarding the heating issue.

Zed Head

Do the s130 come with a throttle position sensor. If they do, that would be last thing I would check regarding the high idle issue.

[NoLeafClover]

I'll post an idle video

[siteunseen]

The actual throat of the throttle body needs cleaning on most all the cars I've bought, they get sticking around where the plate meets the housing. It's easy once you have that hose off. Toothbrush and some lacquer thinner.

[NoLeafClover]

It's been a fee days since I reported back and I apologize, I had to work overtime and literally worked myself sick. I have put in a new thermostat and I have found a few small air leaks in the vacuums. I also replaced the starter unit and solenoid, new gas filter, new battery and terminals, and added heat treatment to the coolant. It still runs hot and blows hot air out of a bad seal but I have the hose on order so there's nothing to do but wait. I've discovered the fan and radiator are off of a 99 toyota Tacoma, the coolant catching reservoir is off of a 2001 honda civic, and the alternator was not even plugged in. I've remedied the alternator issue, but even still with premium gas I'm having issues with rough idle and popping/ bogging under a load. If I try to start it without pressing the gas a little more than I feel should be necessary it stalls and dies. And when I'm test driving when I shift at 4k or higher I have to let it roll until 2 before completing the shift and pressing the gas/ releasing the clutch or it jumps and pops and cuts in and out. I have msd wires/ distributor and a blaster 2 coil on it, I've ordered a new fuel pump as a last resort because I just cannot fathom what else it could be. Also my throttle body is near black inside. Does this mean anything? My phone refuses to post a video but I will post pics of the throttle blackness.

[NoLeafClover]

Sorry it's sideways...

[EuroDat]

Did you clean the throttle already? It doesn't look that dirty inside from your photo. Still wouldn't hurt to clean it while you have access to it. Just follow Siteunseen advice in post 31.

Video: You can not upload videos it the forum. You will need to upload to something like YouTube and post the link in the forum. It will work that way.

Strange mix up of parts in your cooling system. Didn't know a Tacoma radiator would fit a Zed.

Where is this "Bad seal" that blowing hot air? Can you take a photo of it. I can't imagine what it could be because there is little that can provide air pressure in the engine. Other than steam from to cooling system, which is not a good sign.

As for the popping and bogging down. It might be time to get to know your multimeter and start testing your EFI system. These old systems are touchy when it comes to bad connections and that can lead to all sorts of problems. Not saying it will solve everything, but it could influence the engines behavior a lot.

Here is a tutorial on how to do some simple checks. That and the checks in the EFI bible will help you a lot in finding problems in the EFI.

He mentions adjusting the AFM spring. Don't mess with it. Its better to get it running right first before adjusting that stuff.

L-jetronic Fuel Injection Technical Troubleshooting Article

Goodluck

Chas

[Zed Head]

but even still with premium gas I'm having issues with rough idle and popping/ bogging under a load. If I try to start it without pressing the gas a little more than I feel should be necessary it stalls and dies. And when I'm test driving when I shift at 4k or higher I have to let it roll until 2 before completing the shift and pressing the gas/ releasing the clutch or it jumps and pops and cuts in and out

Premium just means high octane, it only really affects knock or detonation. The running issues sound like it has a lean fuel-air mixture. That's why there's a focus on vacuum leaks. But it could also be a weak fuel pump, or a clogged filter, or a clogged tank outlet, or a bad FPR. The best starting point would be to measure fuel pressure. Otherwise, even after a new pump, you could still have the problem. And there are ways to test the pump if you have a pressure gauge. If you haven't paid for the pump and can hold off, buying or borrowing a pressure gauge might be a better idea. If you confirm that fuel pressure is right, and no vacuum leaks (including the PCV system [the crankcase]) then the coolant temperature sensor modification might be in order. Several of us have the lean problem and have modified the system to work around it.

If you're using the gauge to decide it's hot, that's a bad idea. The gauges aren't very accurate. And you never did confirm that it was actually over-heating.

Just trying to help you avoid the common pitfalls. Replace and hope never turns out well. Expensive too.

[NoLeafClover]

I have yet to clean the throttle body, and as I look at everything more I realize a few things may be fixed with a proper cleaning. The throttle linkage is a little floppy and sticky at the same time. It wants to stay turned but it also wants to play hopscotch. The tube that leaks air only does it when it overheats, which is still every drive after about 2 miles or 30 minutes of idle with minimal revving to keep it alive. I can see about taking a picture of it but that would be tomorrow. It's underneath the fuel rail towards the front of the block and it's only about 4 or 5 inches of rubber hose with clamps on either side. Oh, and the radiator doesn't fit. It's zip tied onto the front frame. And before I forget I ordered a cold air intake for my other vehicle some time ago, then forgot and bought one at t he local store. May it help with my heat problem?