I just want to be clear that what worked for me was to remove the radiator and use acid. Don't pour acid into your system (radiator installed, car running, etc) like you might with a radiator flush product. You don't want acid touching the rest of your system- just the radiator.

You can also try reverse flushing by using your garden hose and a compressed air pistol to reverse flush it.

Lay the radiator flat on the ground or a little tilted towards the top with the outlets facing upwards.

Fit the garden hose and the air pistol into the bottom outlet and seal it as best you can with a rag or something like that.

Fill it with water until it flow out the top and give it bursts of air. That can dislodge a far bit of crape out the core.

Oh prepare to get nice and wet. A good weekeind to do it;)

The core can get blocked when poeple used stop leak to fix a leak somewhere in the system. I can remember a product called Bars Stop Leak. It had little pellets in it that could cause partial blokkages in the core.

Chas

My Dad would dump a can of black pepper flakes in his work truck and it worked, temporarily. So save the flushings for a BLT. :laugh:

Okay..

Yesterday up on opening the radiator cap, I noticed the coolant level to low in the radiator, some must have evaporated ?

I did a simple thing first, I went to the local auto parts store and got a can of Wyns coolant system flush. Followed the instructions and flushed it, then filled it with new coolant.

I took it for a drive this morning it was allready 30c. The temp meter stayed a fair bit lower, let's say between 1/2 and 3/4. Will take it for a drive into Germany this afternoon, see what it will do..

Couple of things to think about based on your coolant level post.....

If your coolant level continues to drop then you either have a leak or you have a blown head gasket.

Check your oil. Make sure it doesn't look milky. If yes, then you have another indication of a blown head gasket.

Pay attention to the exhaust color and smell on startup after sitting and when you accelerate. Does the exhaust look white and steamy? Does it smell like anti-freeze? If yes, think head gasket.

Oil looks good on the dipstick, exhaust does not smoke as far as I can see.

It does cool a bit more now. At least it does not run so hot anymore, like when I had 2 days ago.

Where does the temp needle on the dash meter normally stay ? In the middle ?

Edited July 20, 201410 yr by bartsscooterservice

Mine sits on the right leg of "M" in TEMP. That was hot to me but after putting a meat thermometer in my radiator, 176 degrees, it's that particular cars normal. 3 cars with 3 different normals.

How free spinning is your fan clutch? Too easy isn't good.

I think it's fine, there's some resistance in there, it stops quickly when I spin it with my hand.

Mine sits on the right leg of "M" in TEMP. That was hot to me but after putting a meat thermometer in my radiator, 176 degrees, it's that particular cars normal. 3 cars with 3 different normals.

I found this topic, I think'everythings good to go

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/38503-240z-temperature-always-over-half.html

#10 Walter Moore, is the post that eased my mind.

"This is typical for me.

Get a meat thermometer. Put it in the top of the radiator. Start the car and let it idle until it gets full up to temperature. Check the temperature of the actual radiator fluid.

You will feel better. Trust me."

As far as losing coolant, you might want to get yourself an OEM overflow tank:

Pretty sure that Nissan knew the gauges aren't very accurate. That's why the "red zone" is just a tiny sliver at the very upper end of the range and the Owner's Manual describes essentially the whole sweep as normal.

We should all probably have a better aftermarket gauge somewhere in the car, considering the damage overheating causes.