1971 Rear Strut Replacement

[HuD 91gt]

Hello all,

I attempted the rear strut replacement this afternoon on my 1971 240z. After failing, and doing a search doing it the way the manual says to do it is a joke.

Then there is the Atlantic Z way of doing it (Disconnect the opposite side of the transverse link), which I was going to attempt to do before I saw this little video.

Fast forward to 1:50 to see what I am talking about.

From what I can tell, I would only have to disconnect brake lines, disconnect driveshafts at the hub, the three bolts on the top of the strut and it should all drop down, and swing out? Is this correct?

[Zed Head]

How did you "fail"? Might give a clue for some good advice.

Search "Arne" and strut replacement and you might find a thread on the 240Z. I think that it was Arne who wrote something up. Yes, you should be able to just swing out the strut and get the job done. It's actually harder for the 280Z's because the strut is longer.

Also, yes, the FSM procedure doesn't really work. Nissan didn't know that their spindle pins would be almost impossible to remove.

[Carl Beck]

From what I can tell, I would only have to disconnect brake lines, disconnect driveshafts at the hub, the three bolts on the top of the strut and it should all drop down, and swing out? Is this correct?

More or less - I loosen the nuts on the ends of the spindle pins as well - makes the strut assembly easier to drop down. I also loosen the top nut on the strut rod a bit - while it is still secured in the car. Also always use a good penetrating oil on every nut before you start..

The Factory procedure - really didn't take into account 40+ year old spindle pins.

FWIW,

Carl B.

[HuD 91gt]

The Spindle Pins were my issue. Although, they do move side to side with a light tapping of a mallet, I can't seem to get the bolt (Sorry I forget the name) which is underneath, in the centre of said transverse link pin to budge. The manual doesn't explain it well (Does it get removed from the top? Tapered fit?), and I don't want to start hammering (The nut is removed).

I'll give this way a go, it seems pretty simple. Also Carl, thanks for the advice on loosening the top nut. Without an impact wrench, I would have been stuck without you reminding me. I did that on my last strut removal 10 years ago. Apparently I didn't learn my lesson.

Edited July 31, 2014 by HuD 91gt

[er34gtt2000jp]

I did my struts on my 71' and just took the entire lower control arm and strut off as an assembly and over to the bench. Pop off the spring perch and swap strut cartridge. Took maybe two hours or a bit more total to do both sides. Don't forget the new bump stop or you just might find yourself changing struts again soon if they bottom out and destroy the internal valving.

[SteveJ]

This is what I did, based upon advice from an experienced friend. It is similar to what you described.

Remove the wheel.

Disconnect the brake line.

Disconnect the half shaft from the wheel.

Disconnect the sway bar if present.

Remove the three nuts at the insulator.

The assembly dropped down nicely.

When reassembling, use a small jack to lift the assembly up. Then attach in reverse of disassembly.

I had to do this a couple of times when replacing the springs and struts. Since I had to cut the springs to the desired height (Chevette springs), I got good at it. The third time took me only 2 hours to disassemble, cut, and reassemble both sides.

[Zed Head]

I can't seem to get the bolt (Sorry I forget the name) which is underneath, in the centre of said transverse link pin to budge. The manual doesn't explain it well (Does it get removed from the top? Tapered fit?), and I don't want to start hammering (The nut is removed).

It is a tapered pin,or lock bolt, that fits in a notch in the spindle pin to keep it from spinning and moving back and forth. You can try threading the nut back partially, then tapping on the nut to removed the pin. Use the nut to save the threads. You might find though that you still can't remove the spindle pin, the edges of the notch may have deformed and it will bind on its way out. It would save some brake line time if you can do it that way.

[Carl Beck]

Speaking of Brake Lines and the old flair nuts on them. . . .It is time to recommend getting a set of IRWIN Vice Grips, which have a great head for holding Flair Nuts without rounding them off. These come in different lengths - you need the smaller sizes for brake line work.

Irwin Vise-Grip Locking Wrench — 7in., Model# 04 | Locking Pliers| Northern Tool + Equipment

FWIW,

Carl B.

Edited July 31, 2014 by Carl Beck

[Jarvo2]

Is there any reason that I should be hanging onto the original strut inserts after I upgraded to tokiko's? They're 42 years old & I didn't think they could be rebuilt. Should I keep them or send them off for scrap?

[jfa.series1]

Here's a pic of the locking pin for the spindle. Apply a penetrating product around it, let it sit overnight. Loosen the nut a bit and give it a few light taps - not heavy enough to deform the threads. It should pop out. if you are only replacing shocks, no need to break down the spindle.

[HuD 91gt]

Spent 4 hours today, and managed to get one replaced, and the other down to the gland nut on the strut insert. These things are on there. Time to head to the tool store to pickup the largest pipe wrench a man can by. I applied heat and penetrating oil over and over. Not budging. The first one took 30 minutes to loosen. I spent over an hour on the second and nothing.

[er34gtt2000jp]

Carl said: Irwin Vise-Grip Locking Wrench — 7in., Model# 04 | Locking Pliers| Northern Tool + Equipment

That's in ingenious tool my friend! Gotta get one of those ASAP!