djwarner Posted August 2, 2014 Share #1 Posted August 2, 2014 As I went to close the rear hatch the other day, I felt something give and then the ball joint on the bottom of the gas strut came out.On closer examination, the metal bracket attached to the C-pillar broke partially loose. Being away from home, I left the strut detached and closed the hatch.When I got home, I cannot figure just what failed and the manuals are no help. Is the bracket spot welded to the body? Can't tell without pulling the interior. It appears to still be attached somewhere inside.I'm having a problem trying to bend back into position. What is the proper repair procedure? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darrel Posted August 2, 2014 Share #2 Posted August 2, 2014 Yes, it is spot welded.I have a couple of friends with the same failure. Not sure if they have done anything to it yet.Another spot weld would be ideal. until then maybe some tek screws as a temp fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanTechZ Posted August 2, 2014 Share #3 Posted August 2, 2014 I remembered seeing the thread below when I did a search about rebuilding hatch struts, maybe it will shed some light on your problem regarding the weld attach points.http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/interior-s30/33754-71-240z-hatch-strut-mount.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwtaylor Posted August 7, 2014 Share #4 Posted August 7, 2014 Mine fell off years ago and a PO put screws in the drip rail to hold it in place. Finally took it off and cleaned the area, then MIG welded it back in place. Be forewarned that it is a pain in the rear to get the torch in there while standing on your head. You will need to pull the side panel and the rear carpeting at a minimum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djwarner Posted August 7, 2014 Author Share #5 Posted August 7, 2014 Fixed mine using the info given here, Thanks.Used a smaller Irwin Locking C-clamp Vise-grip and a regular C-clamp to urge the bracket back into position. Applied force with the Vise-grip, held position with the regular C-clamp, removed and tightened the Vise-grip and re-applied. Repeated as necessary.Once the bracket was back in position, I drilled a 1/8" pilot hole and then a 1/4" hole in the drip channel and secured with a button head cap screw and locking nut. Released the clamps and then added a second socket head cap screw. Through all this, the intact 3rd tack weld maintained its integrity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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