Throttle opener control valve and servo diaphragm for a 240z?

[Jarvo2]

My 240z had the aftermarket A/C installed in it and did NOT have the FICD installed.

[jalexquijano]

I have removed all the emission parts that go on top of the balance tube including the vacuum control valve which has something to do with when cruising down from altitudes and the servo diaphgram. Hence, i need to know which part will i need to have my Air Conditioner kit running and how should it be connected to the carbs linkage?

[psdenno]

My 240z had the aftermarket A/C installed in it and did NOT have the FICD installed.

Back in 1972 I had an ARA AC unit with gigantic York compressor installed on my '71 240z. No FICD needed. I believe all that was needed was to set the idle speed a little higher. About eight years ago, I replaced that sustem with a modern rotary compressor and current refrigerant. Again, no FICD. This time, I did add electric cooling fans for the radiator, however. No problems. Summer temps run 115 degrees where I live, although not the humidity of Panama. FWIW.

Dennis

[jalexquijano]

Someone has recommended getting a 280z solenoid valve due to the fact it avoids stalling and mantains de RPM when the compressor is engaged? Is this the same as a Fast Idle Actuator? Still confused where to get this part and how is it installed?

[jalexquijano]

There's something I've been meaning to bring up with regards to your A/C install and I kept forgetting. Seeing this post again reminded me. You're looking for a Fast Idle Compensation Device (FICD) to boost your idle while running the A/C. That's the correct part to use. BUT...

 

I don't see any reason why you couldn't repurpose the throttle opener servo instead to do pretty much the same thing. Instead of connecting the actuator hose to the vacuum control valve, you could run a tube over to the A/C vacuum switching solenoid instead.

 

So here I've been trying to show you what the is FICD this whole time, but the more I think about it, the more I think it might actually be easier to find a throttle opener servo diaphragm instead.

 

It's not the RIGHT part, but I think it would work and it's probably much more plentiful. I think every Z from 70 through 74 had one. Even the ones that didn't come with A/C.

AC is installed and working without the servo diaphgram connected! It still drops down 200 rpm if i turn the AC on! Mechanic says that besides the Thottle control valve and servo diaphgram, i still need an electrical solenoid to boost the RPMS when the AC is switched on! Where do i purchase this part and how is it connected all together?

[psdenno]

As a couple of us with aftermarket AC have mentioned above....YOU DON'T NEED AN ELECTRIC SOLENOID TO INCREASE RPM. I've been running aftermarket AC on my '71 Z for 43 years without one - 35 years with an ARA system and the last 8 years with a rotary compressor system. If you're concerned about a 200 RPM drop when the AC kicks is, simply adjust the RPM idle speed a bit higher than it is currently. Problem solved.

Dennis

[EuroDat]

Why don't just buy something like this and make your own mounting bracket. The same power source for the AC compressor can power the solenoid.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Idle-Stop-Solenoid-Rochester-Quadrajet-Carburetor-75-83-Buick-Chev-GMC-Pont-Olds-/331272717308

[Chickenman]

Why don't just buy something like this and make your own mounting bracket. The same power source for the AC compressor can power the solenoid.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Idle-Stop-Solenoid-Rochester-Quadrajet-Carburetor-75-83-Buick-Chev-GMC-Pont-Olds-/331272717308

I suggested that same part to George way back in July. Same link. But George chooses not to listen to the advice given here and just continues to ask the same questions over and over again. He's now got three threads going on this, but refuses to take any initiative on his own. I'm done with offering him advice. Waste of time...

[EuroDat]

Well George, to add to chickenmans post. I think its time you bite the bullet and do something with all the info you have. Come to think of it, I think I posted something similar in one of the other threads.

If you keep asking the same questions and don't move on the advice you are given, people are going to ignore you. Even on this friendly site.

Edited November 28, 2015 by EuroDat

[jalexquijano]

Just took a picture of what i have on top of my balance tube. If someone here has fabricated a base to mount a solenoid that can raise the idle without getting in the middle of the vacuum issues, i would like to follow said route!

Edited December 2, 2015 by jalexquijano

[Chickenman]

I can see an easy spot right away. You have a vacuum pot that is connected to the carb linkage and that vacuum pot is not being used. 

 

I would utilize the vacuum pot's mounting point as a base for the electric solenoid. Note that the linkage on there is  designed to pull up, so you either have to mount the solenoid upside down or change the direction on how the linkage operates. 

 

Miniature bell-cranks are great for this type of job. You have a variety of mounting positions and you can change the direction of travel easily. A circular bell-crank would be ideal. Get them at Hobby shops that sell RC Cars, Helicopters and Planes etc. RC Cars have some very strong and well made parts. So do Helicopters, although more delicate.

 

https://www.google.ca/search?q=RC+plane+bellcranks&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjq2LHG0bzJAhWINIgKHUi0DIAQsAQIKg&biw=1232&bih=615

 

https://www.google.ca/search?q=RC+Car+bellcranks&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi_jc7U27zJAhUY9mMKHSeXCk8QsAQIGw

 

Now you are going to have to fabricate a mount. That may involve welding, cutting or fabrication skills that you may not have. So find someone who does ( Other car enthusiasts.... not regular MECHANICS at a shop ) Local Metal artists and Hobbiests are also a good source . Prototype can be an ugly bodged together piece, Doesn't matter as long as it's strong. You can make it pretty afterwards.

Edited December 2, 2015 by Chickenman

[Chickenman]

^ That is just one thought for mounting. I can think of  at least 3 others off the top of my head.

 

1: You could mount the solenoid above the main throttle push-rod and have plunger contact the plastic end cap directly. Mount may be a bit difficult but you could bolt to Intake manifold. Properly designed ( with an anti-rotation lug ) a single stud on the Intake manifold would work.

 

2: Mount the solenoid so that it actuates the throttle at the Bell-crank on the Firewall 

 

3: Mount the solenoid inside the car so that it actuates at the accelerator pedal linkage.

 

Use you imagination. Lots of possibilities. It doesn't have to be pretty at first. Just functional and strong. Now get your butt in gear and start thinking!. Just do it!!

 

Edit: Once you have a prototype made, you can take measurements off it and get a CNC machined parts made for a relatively small cost. Lots of online CNC shops and 3D printing these days. Free Cad software as well:

 

http://www.emachineshop.com/

 

http://www.emachineshop.com/machine-shop/Custom-Metal-Brackets/page382.html

 

https://www.google.ca/search?q=CNC+fabricated+brackets&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwik5K361bzJAhXJoogKHYB6DocQsAQIJw&biw=1232&bih=615

Edited December 2, 2015 by Chickenman