I haven't researched or chosen a product yet. I've still got a way to go before I put her back together. I do know that I'm not going to use the tar mat or jute. Many people have used Dynamat (sp).and have no complaints. I'll probably go with that.

Noooo, don't turn your your classic zed into a "TV resto" by putting in dynamat or something similar. Just put in the original tar paper like it was intended. Looks much better and very rewarding once you've slaved hours to put it in (burnt hands / sore back / am I selling it too you?).

It took me two days to put all mine in properly and I put in a great deal more than stock just to keep it as quiet as possible. Over the tunnel, new modern sound absorbing matting over the tar and the original restored vinyl over that. Floors have tar/double matting and carpet. Hatch area is tar/matting and carpet.

Should be quiet enough but nothing will stop the music the triples will make.

Planning on making some sort of heat deflector where the exhaust goes from the engine bay into the tunnel to help deflect the heat somewhat as it gets warmish on the passengers side (RHD remember). But doubt it will do much bit it may help.

AmaZing work, Jim!  All the more reason to work out a trip to AR to get caught up with you guys and all your projects.

Sheets of mass loaded vinyl backed with closed-cell foam has worked really well for me.  It's obviously not original, so if that's a concern, then it's maybe not a great option.  But it cuts road noise way down, won't hold water, and does a decent job blocking heat.  Also, it isn't attached to the floor pans, so it can all be removed in under a minute.

On 8/16/2014 at 6:14 AM, Zup said:

After 8 years of fits and starts restoring "Buttercup", a 7/70 build date 240Z (#7032) it has come down to the interior, which was completely stripped and the old tar mat removed.

While "Murdermat", "Fatmat", and the like are what are commonly used as upgrade/replacement--- I wanted the original deal--- as close to the factory fitment as possible. <snip>

That is practically artwork there.   When I start my projects I picture them looking like that but when done they rarely do.  Definitely some real skill and patience involved.

22 hours ago, charliekwin said:

Sheets of mass loaded vinyl backed with closed-cell foam has worked really well for me.  It's obviously not original, so if that's a concern, then it's maybe not a great option.  But it cuts road noise way down, won't hold water, and does a decent job blocking heat.  Also, it isn't attached to the floor pans, so it can all be removed in under a minute.

I like this approach. Who was your source for the mass-loaded vinyl sheet?  How did the price per sq.ft. compare with the usual products like Dynamat?

22 hours ago, charliekwin said:

Sheets of mass loaded vinyl backed with closed-cell foam has worked really well for me.  It's obviously not original, so if that's a concern, then it's maybe not a great option.  But it cuts road noise way down, won't hold water, and does a decent job blocking heat.  Also, it isn't attached to the floor pans, so it can all be removed in under a minute.

I like this approach. Who was your source for the mass-loaded vinyl sheet?  How did the price per sq.ft. compare with the usual products like Dynamat?

Price is pretty good. MLV runs a bit more than $1/sq ft.  The adhesive-backed foam is considerably more expensive at $3/sq ft.  I buy from Super Soundproofing, but there are other places that sell the same stuff (eBay's a good source too).  Considering the size and weight of the materials, shipping can get expensive, so your best option will probably be the one that's closest.

http://www.supersoundproofingsales.com/Mass-Loaded-Vinyl-4W-per-foot/productinfo/09-00005-48/

http://www.supersoundproofingsales.com/SSP-Foam-Mat-1_4-thick-by-48-wide-w_PSA-per-foot/productinfo/09-42720-PSA/

On ‎2016‎-‎06‎-‎03 at 2:02 PM, 240znz said:

Noooo, don't turn your your classic zed into a "TV resto" by putting in dynamat or something similar. Just put in the original tar paper like it was intended. Looks much better and very rewarding once you've slaved hours to put it in (burnt hands / sore back / am I selling it too you?).

It took me two days to put all mine in properly and I put in a great deal more than stock just to keep it as quiet as possible. Over the tunnel, new modern sound absorbing matting over the tar and the original restored vinyl over that. Floors have tar/double matting and carpet. Hatch area is tar/matting and carpet.

Should be quiet enough but nothing will stop the music the triples will make.

Planning on making some sort of heat deflector where the exhaust goes from the engine bay into the tunnel to help deflect the heat somewhat as it gets warmish on the passengers side (RHD remember). But doubt it will do much bit it may help.

Hi! Where did you got this material to substitute the Original Tar which i have the shop removing right now? I also read about this product which i intended to use and spray on after the shop finishes replacing both new floors panels and support rails and over a layer of POR 15:

http://www.lizardskin.com/sound-control-insulation.HTML (

Once spraying this product, i will cut and place the following JUTE material over it:

http://www.stockinteriors.com/jute.asp?Itemid=4794&MakeId=38&ModelId=313 (Automotive Jute Padding) as the original JUTE PADDING is quite expensive in my opinión: http://www.zeddsaver.com/products/datsun-240z-interior-insulation-jute-kit US$400.00

In conclusión, i want to be able to reduce all the road noise, heat and at the same time protect my Brand new floors. What do you think?

 

 

My panel guy told me where to buy it and it was a local shop here in New Zealand so sorry not much help I'm sorry.

I too had new floors must in. Etch primed then tar, then primed twice to stop the tar bleeding. Two top coats to finish it off. No problem with the rust coming back for some time I'd say.

More important attention under the car is the key here. It too was etched then two coats of a stone chip guard type paint, then top coats. As my car will live in a garage, hopefully helping in keeping the rust monster at bay for a while.

Pay special attention to ensuring that your door seals are good and also that the cowl drain hose that exits into the front guard void is in good shape. They can perish and the result is water soaking the firewall insulator and tracking down onto the floor pans.

WHich is this cowl drain hose? do you have pictures?

Here's the drain hose in the center of the pic.  It connects inside the car to the underside of the cowl with a large hose clamp.  Very easy to get to inside, no need to remove the dash.  One on each side.

Edited June 7, 20168 yr by jfa.series1