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Noobie 73 240z WA


sinnersahuayo

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Just saw that you scored a nice buy, and by looking at the pics you posted, it looks like you have access to the area thatr I currently need some close-up pics of...meaning the steering column/ignition switch wiring. If you could take some pics of this area so that I can see the up-close wiring...what color is connected to what color...that would be awesome and greatly appreciated. The wiring on the 73 240z that I am working on is all dismantled so needing some assistance! Thanks...and enjoy your new buy...these only go up in value...so awesome investment!

I have been wait for my front crankshaft seal to arrive and will get those picture for you. Also I have tried to place the plastic cover around the steering columm and seem I may have the wrong one for it.

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I had to wait 2 day for my oil seal cuz a new girl at auto store part f-UP. It was easy taking everything off. Took me longer to drain the coolant. Crank bolt was easy with the help of the start. The pulley came off with a big crow bar???. Now I start to crank the engine and battery doesn't have enough ball to spin the engine. CCA is 600. I may need a deep cycle battery with more CCA. Also cleaned the front of the engine. When I was putting back the KEY and pulley found a nice crack the pulley. Need help looking for a good used pulley. I put everything back so I could move the car but need a battery upgrade.

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Just saw that you scored a nice buy, and by looking at the pics you posted, it looks like you have access to the area thatr I currently need some close-up pics of...meaning the steering column/ignition switch wiring. If you could take some pics of this area so that I can see the up-close wiring...what color is connected to what color...that would be awesome and greatly appreciated. The wiring on the 73 240z that I am working on is all dismantled so needing some assistance! Thanks...and enjoy your new buy...these only go up in value...so awesome investment!

I got your pic for the switch

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That key is hammered! Did that just happen or did it come out that way?

And too bad about the pulley crack. A buddy of mine just did that to his because his key did the same thing your did and slipped out of position as he pressed the pulley on. His pulley is a goner.

On the good side... I think you have conclusively figured out why your front seal was leaking so bad!

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cool project - looks like you are fearlessly diving into it!

while you have things pulled apart, you may want to consider the following:

  • lotta sludge up in the head - remove your oil spray bar and flush it out to ensure all the little holes are spraying oil - some crud in there can block a hole and starve a cam lobe of oil (not good)
  • check your fuel filter - may have been replaced already by the looks of it. save yourself some grief as the tanks tend to rust...
  • get 10' of vacuum hose and fuel line and replace every rubber hose you come across - they dry out and little cracks are hard to see. again, cheap insurance to save you headaches later
  • check water pump impeller for play - much easier to replace it now than later. a new one is ~$45 at Oreilley's
  • new belts - 'nuff said
  • check your distributor to make sure it's working well (advance plate not frozen) and not too much wiggle/slop - new cap & rotor

looking forward to seeing this z come back to life!

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cool project - looks like you are fearlessly diving into it!

while you have things pulled apart, you may want to consider the following:

  • lotta sludge up in the head - remove your oil spray bar and flush it out to ensure all the little holes are spraying oil - some crud in there can block a hole and starve a cam lobe of oil (not good)
  • check your fuel filter - may have been replaced already by the looks of it. save yourself some grief as the tanks tend to rust...
  • get 10' of vacuum hose and fuel line and replace every rubber hose you come across - they dry out and little cracks are hard to see. again, cheap insurance to save you headaches later
  • check water pump impeller for play - much easier to replace it now than later. a new one is ~$45 at Oreilley's
  • new belts - 'nuff said
  • check your distributor to make sure it's working well (advance plate not frozen) and not too much wiggle/slop - new cap & rotor

looking forward to seeing this z come back to life!

I had the running, did the valve adjust. I did check all the hose/line by press them with my thumb and index finger. With a Carb clean I spray the crab gasket and line to check for any leaks. Did the timing, plugs, clean the Dizziy. I see your from Seattle. I live in Bremerton WA for the time until they move me again.

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I got your pic for the switch

got the pics you sent to me. Thank you, I hope that these will help, as the wiring has been hatcheted and pieced back together in several different spots here, behind the dash and in the engine compartment, due to an electrical fire some dozen years ago when the battery was not secured and arced against the body and engine. TJ

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